Can I Use Universal Coolant in my 6.9?

[87F-250HD]

I always use conventional green coolant in my 6.9, which has a couple of pinhole leaks in the radiator and now needs to be filled. That conventional green is a little hard to find out here, though, and I need to add coolant without making a long trip right now. Is there any reason not to use Peak Universal 50/50? It seems to have the same ingredients as the conventional green - ethelyne glycol, water, diethylene glycol, and denatonium benzoate - in roughly the same proportions. See https://ace.infotrac.net/getmsds.aspx?sku=8030501

Any guidance would be much appreciated. Thank you. And thanks for all the advice posted on this forum, it is really helpful.

 

[ttman4]

Right or wrong I have been using Green & Distilled water in my 7.3's for yrs. Also got a spin-on water filters on with DCA's as well as test ever few months.

 

[FrozenMerc]

Short answer is use what you got.

Long Answer is the 6.9 isn't nearly as susceptible to caviation issues as the later 7.3's and as such is a bit more tolerant of different coolants. That said, you are still working with a 40 year old hunk of iron that needs as much help protecting it from corrosion as possible. I would suggest a thorough flush and refill with a top quality HD Diesel coolant (mixed with distilled water) as soon as possible. I personally run Valvoline Zerex G05 in my 6.9 / 7.3 engine, and have been very happy with its performance. This is Ford's recommendation for '99 and up Diesels. I figured since I rebuilt my motor a couple of years ago, the later coolant should work fine as the gaskets and soft parts that were replaced have probably change materials since the mid '80's. I believe the recommendation from Ford for pre-'99 Diesels is a standard green coolant with a SCA-4 additive.

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[87F-250HD]

Thank you, ttman4 and FrozenMerc. Yes, I have a new radiator in the barn I am planning to put in, to solve my slow coolant leak. When I do that, I will flush all the green coolant and replace with HD Diesel coolant.

By the way, the current radiator looks like an original brass radiator; the coolant leak seems to be from some pinholes in the top cover and the tubes facing the engine. Does anyone have thoughts on whether it is worth it to try to solder the leaks in the old radiator, so I have a spare? This video was inspiring on that subject, for your viewing pleasure:

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[FrozenMerc]

If you have a good rad shop nearby that you trust, get it brazed up and put it on the shelf. Always good to have a back up for this old junk. You never now when a deer or a Subaru will jump out in front of you.

 

[Jesus Freak]

If you have a good rad shop nearby that you trust, get it brazed up and put it on the shelf. Always good to have a back up for this old junk. You never now when a deer or a Subaru will jump out in front of you.

...dad gum undomesticated suburus!....

 

[franklin2]

If you have a good rad shop nearby that you trust, get it brazed up and put it on the shelf. Always good to have a back up for this old junk. You never now when a deer or a Subaru will jump out in front of you.

Unless the radiator shop (which are getting harder to find) tells you it's not worth fixing. You will get a couple of dollars out of it at the metal recyclers.

 

[Old Goat]

Don`t waste your money on the 50/50 mix coolant. You are wasting your money, buy the concentrate, and mix with Distilled water 50/50.


Goat

 

[Nero]

Only time to buy pre mixed is if you're topping off. Otherwise yeah it's usually cheaper by almost half to buy concentrate and dilute it yourself.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

Only time to buy pre mixed is if you're topping off. Otherwise yeah it's usually cheaper by almost half to buy concentrate and dilute it yourself.

I don't even buy 50/50 to top off. I just pour half a jug of concentrate into an empty and mix up 2 gallons for only a couple dollars more than 1 gallon of the pre mix.

I usually run my mix a little on the heavy side anyway so I normally just dump the first gallon in straight so I have an empty container to start mixing up the rest in.

James

 

[Old Goat]

There are a lot of people that read through the Forum that sit on the side lines, and would never think of signing up, after all what would my friends think?

Why in the world would I waste my money using Distilled Water in my Radiator?...when Hose water is just as good.
Most people don`t keep vehicles very long, 3 - 5 years and move on to the next wonderful piece of engineering coming out of Detroit.

Back in Oct 81 I bought an 82 Datsun KC Diesel 5-spd 720 Pick Up. Drove that thing for over 30 years and around 480K miles lost #2 cylinder driving from Portland, Or. to Santa Cruz, Ca.
it made it home on 3 cyl for probably 300 miles.

In all those years I used 50/50 mix with Distilled water. It still has the original radiator, and when the cap is removed, the tubes all look good and not plugged up. Never had a leak in it, till one day across the top it was wet. Thought the top tank had sprung a leak.
Removed the Cap looking around, and you know that cheap Radiator Cap Rubber seal decided to give up the ghost after 27 years.
Replaced it and all was good.
I guess it was something I never gave a thought to.

I often wonder, with the 50/50 ready mixed coolant, if it is hose water or Distilled water ?


Goat

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I don't even buy 50/50 to top off. I just pour half a jug of concentrate into an empty and mix up 2 gallons for only a couple dollars more than 1 gallon of the pre mix.

I'm the same way. I consider the 50/50 to be an emergency use only. If, for whatever reason, I HAVE to have some and all that's available is 50/50, then I'll buy it. Otherwise, I get twice as much antifreeze for a few dollars more by buying the straight.

 

[KansasIDI]

I'm the same way. I consider the 50/50 to be an emergency use only. If, for whatever reason, I HAVE to have some and all that's available is 50/50, then I'll buy it. Otherwise, I get twice as much antifreeze for a few dollars more by buying the straight.

I do the same thing.