Low Silicate Green Coolant - Which One Are You Using?

[bulletpruf]

Have you tested your coolant yet? Specifically the PH?

You said it was contaminant free right? No swirlies, not off color etc.

Test it and see what the PH is. If it’s good. Drain some of the radiator into a clean jug and check how much buildup is present.

If no build up is present and the PH is good, and no contamination, test the freeze point and the SCA’s and get them in spec.

If all tests out, send it, you do not waste more time thinking you need to flush it.

I run Napa ethylene glycol. I think it is all low silicate this day in age.

If your PH is off or questionable, or you have contamination or you have build up. Dump it all, flush it, back flush it, and upgrade like everyone is saying. Look at the condition of your hoses.

Do you plan to pull heavy or just drive this rig? My coolant has been in my van since 2003. I’m just trying to keep you from wasting money or going down a rabbit hole you may not need to.

I have not tested the coolant.

I don't know if it's contaminant free. It looks good, but looks can be deceiving.

I plan to tow with it. Nothing too heavy at this point, but hopefully that will change. I'm also in south Texas, so I need a cooling system that's in good shape.

Thanks

 

[Cant Write]

I run the GO5 also. Very simple to drain the green out, take the lower radiator hose off and one of the heater hoses off, stick a garden hose up in the heater core hose, and run water through till it's clear. Then stick the hose in the top of the radiator and run it through till it's clear. Then put something else in it.

What do you do for the engine? Pull the block drains? Or don’t worry about it? Or does just pulling the engine side of the lower radiator hose get to it....?

 

[Cant Write]

I have not tested the coolant.

I don't know if it's contaminant free. It looks good, but looks can be deceiving.

I plan to tow with it. Nothing too heavy at this point, but hopefully that will change. I'm also in south Texas, so I need a cooling system that's in good shape.

Thanks

Gotcha, then I would definitely look at the build up inside the rad. Check condition of hoses and fan clutch.

Grab some flush, some of that G05 Brian posted above, distilled water, radiator cap.

Check your fins on the cooling stack, and the dirt build up in the air passages between the fins.

But I talk like a guy with an endless amount of time!!! Of which I DO NOT have

 

[Nero]

@Cant Write when I flushed mine, I had the engine running at operating temp with water, radiator drain open and a garden hose trickling water in, let it do that for about an hour, flushes everything out.

 

[franklin2]

What do you do for the engine? Pull the block drains? Or don’t worry about it? Or does just pulling the engine side of the lower radiator hose get to it....?

You can pull the block drains if you want to. The garden hose dilutes anything left so much I do not think it would cause any harm. Never did on mine anyway.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I'm also in south Texas, so I need a cooling system that's in good shape.

Yes you certainly do!

 

[Old Goat]

I just grabbed 4 gallons of this. My green stuff looks fine but this was cheap enough that I may switch over.
Sale price ends at end of the month.

That`s the same stuff in my system.


Goat

 

[CDX825]

Fleet charge is low silicate green that is already pre charged with SCA.

Just so you understand there are two types of sca and they both require their own test strips. There is DCA-2 and DCA-4.

 

[Old Goat]

You can pull the block drains if you want to. The garden hose dilutes anything left so much I do not think it would cause any harm. Never did on mine anyway.

When you unscrew the 2 Block drains, amazing amount of water comes out of the Engine.
not that big of deal to remove them.


Goat

 

[Cant Write]

Just so you understand there are two types of sca and they both require their own test strips. There is DCA-2 and DCA-4.

The acustrips I linked way earlier accounts for both. But like your saying, you should know what you have, and should not mix, although some have and say they don’t have negative results.

The strips I linked will tell you if you have both SCA’s and need the DCA-4 or just the nitrite and just the DCA-2.

I went down this rabbit hole as I did not know what I had. The strips confirmed ZERO molybdenum and just the nitrite. So Napakool (DCA-2) served me well.

 

[ISPKI]

Fleet charge is low silicate green that is already pre charged with SCA.

Just so you understand there are two types of sca and they both require their own test strips. There is DCA-2 and DCA-4.

Which fleetcharge is green? The fleetcharge that I have been using is reddish/pink.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

Which fleetcharge is green? The fleetcharge that I have been using is reddish/pink.

I was wondering the same thing, just forgot to ask when I got time.

James

 

[hacked89]

I was wondering the same thing, just forgot to ask when I got time.

James

Fleetcharge is pink.
FYI ~50% off just picked up a bunch more.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Rdnck84_03]

Fleetcharge is pink.
FYI ~50% off just picked up a bunch more.

You must be registered for see images attach

Thanks, I will look and see if they have it here.

James

 

[CDX825]

Which fleetcharge is green? The fleetcharge that I have been using is reddish/pink.

Fleet charge is the same as conventional low silicate green. The color is to indicate that its pre charged with sca. Fleet charge uses DCA-2