Bad U Joints?

IDIoit

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If you have a NAPA with a machine shop near by, it's $15 per u-joint replacement and I think $30 for a carrier bearing.

and 35 per u-joint, and 50 per carrier bearing. i upgrade them when i have to change them.
neither of the napas around here have machine shops, they have phased that out over 2 decades ago out here.
plus napa is expensive for parts. i go to my local prop shop& driveline service shop, i hand it to them and they do it.
easy peazy, plus i boat with them. and they give me killer deals on parts.
i bought a 300 dollar crank driven water pump for 15 bucks, and he handed me a new impeller.
 

crash-harris

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That's a pretty sweet deal there. I buy my u-joints at autozone and get a discount since I used to work there and they loved it, lol. I wish I had a driveline shop in town that I could get quotes for 1410 shafts, front and rear for all 3 trucks.
 

larson

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I am definitely still going to replace the U joints, but just wanted to post a quick update. I had my buddy ride with me, then drive it as well, and he seemed to think it was a miss. The truck does shake pretty bad in 2nd and 3rd gear up until about 30-35MPH but idles smooth. And that shake turns into a vibration at 35MPH and continues to vibrate until you slow down. As I was coasting to a stop, I had it in 2nd gear with the clutch in and as it hit that 15-20MPH slowing down, it had a little shudder/shake to it, like the one when accelerating at the that speed.

From your description above sounds like a drive line problem. I can't speak from alot of experience with a diesel but due to the fact there are no spark plugs the only thing that would have a miss would be fuel cutting out on you. I know when i ran my fuel tank to low you knew immediately like a 70mph head wind all at once but no vibrations like you would get from a worn driveline.
But I could be wrong I'm still taking advise not giving on this forum 99% of the time
 

rellerman

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I took it to my buddy's shop today and had him drive it, and he is convinced that the flywheel is shot. We had it jacked up and put it in gear and the driveline looked to be spinning fairly straight.
 

crash-harris

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If the flywheel has more than 5/8" of freeplay in it, then replace it. Im ordering the Luk single mass flywheel kit for the 7.3L today from rock auto. Luk part #07225, about $320 before shipping.
 

crash-harris

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I still haven't found the write up on here, but with the engine off and the truck in neutral, take the inspection plate off the bellhousing and push on the clutch plate with a screwdriver back and forth and measure how far it moves (ring gear won't move). You can also look at the engine side of the flywheel and see about 4 dampening springs with a flashlight. Check those and make sure the springs and their seats are still there and that they aren't deformed.
 

rellerman

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Update: I was driving down the road today and heard a pop, I wasn't sure what it was, and the truck stopped shaking and vibrating. I drove back by and looked for any parts that might've fell out. I found a nut, that kinda looks like a spindle nut, and I'm not sure if it came from the truck or not. Is there anyway to post pictures to the thread?
 

rellerman

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There's the pictures of what I think popped out of the truck.
 

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79jasper

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2 wheel drive? Probably off the output yoke on the trans. Doesn't quite look like a balljoint nut.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 

junk

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I'm thinking nut off a yoke if it came off your truck. If it is a yoke nut that came off I'm guessing something will grenade in short order.
 

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