94 F250 7.3 Sitting for 15 years

OLDBULL8

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The upper White plastic cap is the torque adjustment, perhaps the lock nut is loose there. The lower White plastic cap, I forget what it is, but pry the top one off, they pry off hard and see why it's leaking. Both caps are just on there so they are not messed with. Those caps are NOT seals.

Looking at the 3rd pic, you will see the torque screw inside the IP, the pic is with the solenoid cover off.
 

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icanfixall

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That is as posted. Nothing more than the torque screw. All it does is press on a lever in the top of the pump. Even if it was sucking air that area is well after any fuel in the pump and at that point the fuel is refered to as return fuel to the tanks. It will not cause the engine to not start or run. My best guess is what the "expert is seeing is a problem sucking because of other internal stuck valves like maybe the pilot valve?? I'm no expert but I can guess like anyone else on this issue. Might be a good reason to purchase a rebuilt injection pump anyway. Sitting all those years can cause several areas to plug up with varnish.
A good cheap injection pump is not a good pump. You are way better off buying from a known rebuilder this forum knows and recommends. Conestoga is not cheap nor are they expensive. You get much more than you pay for in the best customer service during and after purchase. Most ebay sellers are great as you buy. then they forget who you were. Remember me??? I'm the sucker that keeps you in business!!!. We have seen so many members come to this forum asking for help with a special ebay seller that ripped them off and now wont talk to them...
 

OLDBULL8

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Come to think of it, If the Return line check valve is plugged up that would put pressure on that torque screw and possibly make it leak fuel. See pic for check valve on top of the solenoid cover, remove it and see if it is plugged, blowing thru it from the screw in side, air should come out, blowing thru it from the opposite side it should NOT let air pass. 1st pic is the check valve. 2nd pic is when it is assembled to return line hose 90*.

If that is plugged, it will make the exhaust smoke and the IP will become pressurized and not operate correctly.
 

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FORDF250HDXLT

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time to visit moosepump.com
it's no surprise an ip sitting for 18 yrs is done............that's just the beginning.:D so if this sets you back for this long,get out now cus she'll hardly get driven.LOL nothings cheap about and old cheap idi truck.
 
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TattooTodd

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Nothing setting me back. Just not spending on **** I don't need. I'm gunna make sure it's needed before I order. New one on way be here mid week. I'm a motorcycle guy. I don't know **** bout diesels. So I'll learn. Different animal that's for sure.ill have it on the road soon I'm not to worried, but I am gunna make sure I need this or that before I dump $700 into a single part.
 

icanfixall

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Sad part about a shop testing your pump is the dirt they get in their systems or the dirt they force thru your pump. any dirt forced thru the pumping stage ruins it. Mel wrote this.. not me. He also told me they wont test a pump on their $100,000.000 plus machines.
 

TattooTodd

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Ok it'll be here today, I'm off next 4 days. Waiting all day for fed ex!!!

So while I got it all apart anyone wanna gimme tips??

Should I pull and clean injectors? If so how.

I have my return line kit and a new tub of petroleum jelly.

So if I've read correct, mark the pump before I take it at the gears. Pull off with lines, put gear on new pump as it'll only go on one way. Put together bleed it and hope like hell she runs?

Thanx in advance again
 
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79jasper

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Don't remove the gear at all. Remove the lemon cover, then remove the 3 bolts that hold the gear to the pump.

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