17 years later I did a compression test

[The_Josh_Bear]

I bought my pickup about 17 years ago, never did a compression test. Today I finally did, and while it wasn't fun to see the results, they do explain a bit. I actually did the #1 cylinder LAST, imagine my let-down. Until that point I was only mildly grumpy about #6. Booooooo
Also, I had to use this tiny adapter since the glow plug looking one was too long, and only after cutting it down did I realize that without the schraeder valve the gauge wouldn't hold any pressure. So I couldn't use the long one, which would have been way easier.

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I took off the charge pipe on the right, and actually managed to get to all 8. Getting #7 under the turbo is a PITA. I finally figured out the assortment of sockets and u-joints and whatever to remove the GP, install the tester, and then reinstall the GP; once you get the right combo it's actually not horrible.

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Two tricks that helped a TON. First is to use a piece of fuel line that slips tightly over the hex of your GP or tester. It's flexible and allows you to start the darn thing!(I'm pretty sure I got that from @typ4 but I'm not certain. Definitely from the forums)
The second trick is one wrap of electrical tape on the hex: it keeps the adapter from falling out of the socket! In my case, that was the only hope I had of starting this bad boy. Even the fuel line trick wasn't enough for that #7 hole with my short adapter.

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[The_Josh_Bear]

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Here is the taped adapter not falling out of the socket. 5 picture limit per post apparently.

 

[Greenie]

How does the engine run with #1 @260 PSI?

 

[hacked89]

I saw your question I didn’t have any issue with holding gauge compression with the kit from my video and where I cut. That stinks about #1 but it’s been running this long. #7 almost looks inaccurately high for the motors age and other cylinders.

 

[Cant Write]

First is to use a piece of fuel line that slips tightly over the hex of your GP or tester. It's flexible and allows you to start the darn thing!(I'm pretty sure I got that from @typ4 but I'm not certain. Definitely from the forums)

I first learned the flexible hose trick back in 1990 from my dad. We use it all the time when doing spark plugs.

Thanks for the heads up about the glow plugs, only makes perfect sense.

17 years isn’t that long!!! I’m just happy to see someone has actually kept a vehicle that long!!!

 

[Nero]

These engines are surprisingly robust. Even with bad compression they can run really well. My dad's dusted engine had 170 on a few holes and still ran fairly smooth, but oh boy was it a thirsty engine, burning a quart of oil every 100 miles

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

I saw your question I didn’t have any issue with holding gauge compression with the kit from my video and where I cut. That stinks about #1 but it’s been running this long. #7 almost looks inaccurately high for the motors age and other cylinders.

The engine runs well overall. Could start better on good glow plugs but this could explain some of the smoke on startup. That or leaky injectors but they all pop very close together still.

#7 had the best compression overall but also had the best build up. It was clearly special.
The gauge jumped up and up, was at 400 in 3 revolutions. The rest took about 8-10 revs to stop gaining compression.

Also this was on a stone cold engine, about 50* ambient.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

How does the engine run with #1 @260 PSI?

Starts just fine! 8-10 seconds on my push-button and good to go.

 

[Kdo58]

What it takes to kill a idi

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[Nero]

While injectors pop the same, what about holding pressure on them right before they spray, to check for nozzle leakage? That will cause cold start smoke too.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

I switched to full synthetic 15w-40 from Costco on my last oil change. It's consumed more oil this go around than normal, but it might be 3 quarts over 4-5k. I don't drive her a lot. The synthetic will clean her up slowly and keep things in good order.

While injectors pop the same, what about holding pressure on them right before they spray, to check for nozzle leakage? That will cause cold start smoke too.

I agree. It was maybe 2 years ago, but I didn't check for drippage, as I pop-tested them inside the engine. I didn't feel like pulling everything at the time.
But since they all popped within 50psi after 3 years in service, I called it good.

 

[hacked89]

The engine runs well overall. Could start better on good glow plugs but this could explain some of the smoke on startup. That or leaky injectors but they all pop very close together still.

#7 had the best compression overall but also had the best build up. It was clearly special.
The gauge jumped up and up, was at 400 in 3 revolutions. The rest took about 8-10 revs to stop gaining compression.

Also this was on a stone cold engine, about 50* ambient.

Your exhaust valve seals are probably long gone from the age you described it’s been untouched which could cause smoke on startup that clears. It is also fine to run like that. In the international engine book I have it even gives you an option to run no exhaust valve seals just noting it may smoke on startup.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Your exhaust valve seals are probably long gone from the age you described it’s been untouched which could cause smoke on startup that clears. It is also fine to run like that. In the international engine book I have it even gives you an option to run no exhaust valve seals just noting it may smoke on startup.

That's an angle I hadn't thought of. Probably true, this was a factory engine when I got it, and I've never looked at the valve seals. 4-ish years ago I had the rocker covers off and didn't see any soot, though. Hopefully that's still the case.

 

[chillman88]

These engines are surprisingly robust. Even with bad compression they can run really well. My dad's dusted engine had 170 on a few holes and still ran fairly smooth, but oh boy was it a thirsty engine, burning a quart of oil every 100 miles

My dually has been burning oil pretty bad lately. I put a bunch of the lucas in the oil and it seems to have slowed it down. Feels more sluggish, probably because it's just running on the diesel and not burning oil too

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

I'm thinking about trying Restore after seeing this Project Farm video(Part 2, one year later)
Restore compression test 1 year later

Any other suggestions? Since the GP hole is so easy to get to I'll test it again a few times and see how she does.

Before someone says it...I know it won't FIX the compression problem. But since I'm not going to pull the engine for one low cylinder, it's a thought.
I'm not a "fix in a bottle guy" by any means.

Edit: Fixed the link