qestion rgarding batteyr cable.s back when i redid my cable si coudlnt find 3/0 or 4/0 so i used two 1/0 or maybe they were 2/0 going to my starter. thinking about this...wont current just pass thru only one cable at a time anyhow? Whichever has lowest resistance?
I will split based on resistance yes, but it won't be all thru one of the cables. So say 60% will pass thu one cable and 40% thru the other, the close the cables are in length the more even the current flow. That is why it's a good idea to periodically switch your batteries around, due to the arrangement & length of the cables (especially if you have one of the later factory setups with 2/0 all the way, instead of 2/0 between the batteries and 3/0 down to the starter) and the currents involved the passenger side is always the one providing most of the juice needed to get the engine started. Or you can run two separate starter cables, one from each battery, make them 2/0 and equal in length and your truck will be very happy.
question regarding hazard lamp wiring. I got my harness all wired up to the stock turn switch column connector, everything except hazards, because i want them on a toggle switch.
I cant really understand the schematic of the switch laser posted, but my question is-can i simply take the hazard wire and run it thru a toggle rather than the column switch? Or does the column switch physically connect left and right circuits?
I got a separate flasher for turn and separate for hazard.
I fear the stock hazard switch bridges the left and right circuits, applying power to this new circuit from the hazard flasher. In which case i could need to tap into lf, rf, rr, lr wires and run them all into my separate toggle switch?
You didn't have your coffee in yet when you typed this, did you? My auto-correct went nuts
But yes, the hazards switch does in fact bridge all 4 corners into one circuit. And technically there should be a diode built in it as well between the switch and the rear lights, as without it when the 4-ways are bridged together and you step on the brakes current feeds back from the brake lights (rear turn signals) thru the 4-ways switch and into the front turn signals, thus like Laserjock said making them all light up solid. (Not saying add the diode yourself, it's probably near impossible with a factory combo switch, and it needs to be able to handle the currents of many brake lamps passing thru it, but still it would be nice to have it.)
If you want to run a stand-alone 4-ways switch you need to look at vehicles that have one mounted in that manner, those would be mostly newer vehicles with the switch on the dash. Keep in mind these may or may not be able to handle the currents associated with flashing trailer lights, so you're probably better off using a switch from a pickup truck rather than one from a passenger car.
Or, for extra heavy-duty, you can ditch the factory setup altogether and use one of these instead:
http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wc...catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=29409
Match it up with one of these:
www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/store...catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=23770
Pretty much guaranteed to never give you any troubles whatsoever. You may burn out the harnesses, but probably won't even scratch the switch or the flasher
Depending on how you wire up the relay the push button on the handle can be used to either switch between high and low beams, or just turn something (anything) on and off.
Or if you wanna go real fancy with your lights, find a VSM999574, first one on this page:
http://www.vehiclesafetymfg.com/Mack-Turn-Signal-Switches.html