Gang, getting tired of the "what do I look for in a used truck" questions on TDS, and am putting together THIS so I can point them here and hopefully attract some new members. I've run out of stuff to add. What's missing?
Writers block. Help me out.
- Thread starter Agnem
- Start date
John Haggerty
Birth Certificate
Mel,
I thinking about how a small puddle(s) of fuel accumulating below the injectors is no need to panic. They do wear. New hose/fitting/o-ring kit less than $30.
John
I thinking about how a small puddle(s) of fuel accumulating below the injectors is no need to panic. They do wear. New hose/fitting/o-ring kit less than $30.
John
mel-
pulling the oil cap while the motor is running and checking for blow-by. At idle there whould be a minimal amount of "smoke" coming out of the filler cap hole and as soon as you bring the throttle off idle to about 1000rpm, the smoke should disappear. If the smoke does not go away by 1800rpm, the motor has excessive blow-by. Also, the smoke output should be a steady stream, not a large "puff". That would be an indicator of one cylinder having bad rings.
One more thing, when removing the oil cap, take a quick look for condensation on the inside of the filler cap. If there is presence of water, that is the beginning signs of trouble.
pulling the oil cap while the motor is running and checking for blow-by. At idle there whould be a minimal amount of "smoke" coming out of the filler cap hole and as soon as you bring the throttle off idle to about 1000rpm, the smoke should disappear. If the smoke does not go away by 1800rpm, the motor has excessive blow-by. Also, the smoke output should be a steady stream, not a large "puff". That would be an indicator of one cylinder having bad rings.
One more thing, when removing the oil cap, take a quick look for condensation on the inside of the filler cap. If there is presence of water, that is the beginning signs of trouble.
F350camper
BOOST!
A mention of observing smoke color may also be helpful. I always tell people to set the passenger side mirror so they can see the exhaust while driving. And then check smoke color during normal cruising, lugging up hill, normal acceleration up hill, and going against compression down hill.
Normal cruising should be light haze to no smoke
Lugging should be brown or black
Normal acceleration should be light haze to no smoke
Against compression should be no visible smoke
Of course black and light brown is good, all else needs to be investigated further.
Normal cruising should be light haze to no smoke
Lugging should be brown or black
Normal acceleration should be light haze to no smoke
Against compression should be no visible smoke
Of course black and light brown is good, all else needs to be investigated further.
geonc
SPIDER BAIT
Mel, 
In the GP area, I would mention checking the cannon plug on the fender for loose connection/burnt wires leading to the relay and what if anything was done to repair or ignore it as this shoud give quite a good insight as to the condition of the rest of the vehicle.
The DMFW issues are dead on but it might be a good thing to describe the sounds of a failed DMFW akin to a washing macine that is out of balance on the spin cycle- with the truck idling.
Clutch issues....ya missed those pesky plastic bushings
that could be misinterpeted as clutch failure to the un initiated 
In the nozzle/IP area, how about mentioning the steel line clamps....abscense of those will lead to line failure and fuel leaks.
Overall great article
Hope I'm not looking too deep.
In the GP area, I would mention checking the cannon plug on the fender for loose connection/burnt wires leading to the relay and what if anything was done to repair or ignore it as this shoud give quite a good insight as to the condition of the rest of the vehicle.
The DMFW issues are dead on but it might be a good thing to describe the sounds of a failed DMFW akin to a washing macine that is out of balance on the spin cycle- with the truck idling.
Clutch issues....ya missed those pesky plastic bushings
that could be misinterpeted as clutch failure to the un initiated In the nozzle/IP area, how about mentioning the steel line clamps....abscense of those will lead to line failure and fuel leaks.
Overall great article
Hope I'm not looking too deep.
soulpatchfr
goat herder
Mel is at it again... I'll second the
looks like everything is covered (and then some), but maybe a mention of the dual batteries & their proper size? oh, and that darn headlight switch?
looks like everything is covered (and then some), but maybe a mention of the dual batteries & their proper size? oh, and that darn headlight switch?
Geo, good catch on the 7.3 clutch bushings, and I'll add the wiring thing. If you read it again, you'll note I already got the line clamps covered. I'm thinking the headlight switch might be beyond the scope of the article, and the battery power was mentioned under hard starts. I gotta watch what I put in, after all it is supposed to help somebody shopping for a used one, and not be a biblical account of what could go wrong with these trucks, although it seems inevitiable that we will have one someday.
wwwabbit
Mmmmm Diesel
Look great! I just wish I had all that info when I was going to look at mine!
One question:
One question:
Why? Something wrong with them or do they not work or?
Michael Fowler
Registered User
Mel,
Excellent work. I think you've got it covered well.
One minor point that maybe you should add to the "Oil Condition" area is to caution people who are new to diesels that black oil is OK.
Excellent work. I think you've got it covered well.
One minor point that maybe you should add to the "Oil Condition" area is to caution people who are new to diesels that black oil is OK.
You know Mike, I meant to put that in as I did think of it. I'll be sure to do that. As for the block heater, it's my personal superstition. I used the block heater on the Moose Truck all the time when it was new. First 2 to 5 years I used it with no problem. Since learning about the block cracking problem, I've decided that perhaps depending on how the block heater is situated in the block, it may be possible that he heating element is too close to the block wall on some engines, thus contributing to the cracking situation. I have no data to back this up, as I have tried to corellate block heater use to block cracking, to no avail. However, when I write tech articles, I try to write them to err on the side of safety, and not push the envelope. If I say it's OK to use the heater, and somebody else says it isn't, and somebody's block cracks and they say "That damn Mel Agne made me crack my block", well I'd rather them have to say "I had to buy a new starter cause that damn Mel Agne won't let me use my block heater". 
Also, I didn't say anything much about the E40D. Should I? I don't know much about them.
Also, I didn't say anything much about the E40D. Should I? I don't know much about them.
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JimmyDee
Full Access Member
How long do you seriously think a link to here will last over there?
Jim
pafixitman
Registered User
Agnem said:
I think you should. I saw you glossed over that. I figured your "comfort" level was not high w/ them.
The $.02 I can add is that they should have a nice cooler already installed on em. Change the fluid often. Jumping tach is a minor ($50) issue that should be corrected.
Some people bad mouth the tranny, but other than a leaking tail shaft seal mine has been great (even better when I get the Factory Tech valve body installed!).
Goat boy might have some advice. The tranny is the only thing he can't break!
mel-
maybe we need to do a article on "known maintence problems" on the IDI and the wrapper supporting it. That way, we can bring out the symptoms and cures. I know, more work for you....
maybe we need to do a article on "known maintence problems" on the IDI and the wrapper supporting it. That way, we can bring out the symptoms and cures. I know, more work for you....
