wont start or nothin please help

wood350

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i drive a 94 f350 and its been turnin over fine lately then all of a sudden i woke up at 4 this morning went to leave and nothin. WTS came on then went off and turneds the key and nothin wouldnt turn over or try to or any thing just nothin. i have heard that if u have trouble startin and it cranks for longer than 30 seconds at a time it can cause the startr to fail. if the starter isnt bad is there a way that i can cross the starter(jump it) inside the truck run some wires from the big and small one on the starter and cross them just for the time bein thansk for the help
conner
 

ClassicIDI

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try givivng the starter a few whacks with a hammer and see if that works if not you can test the starter by giving it direct current. Locate the relay on the pass. fender and use a pair of jumper cables or even a srew driver to arc between the two largest connections. Be sure the truck is in neutral or park because if the starter is good it will crank even if the key is not on or the clutch is out.
 

krawlr

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Start with the basics. Sounds like a connection problem. Pull all 4 battery terminals and wire brush or sand them shiney and put it back together. It's free, easy, and eliminates that possibilty. I've seen too many no-starts that were simply the terminals, just because you can't twist them doesn't mean it's OK.

A voltmeter at the batteries while you try to crank will tell you if the batteries are dead.
 

Exekiel69

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Sounds like a starter problem, use a hammer on the starter a couple times and try to start it like the guys said.
 

wood350

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ill try it with a hammer today and i tried late last night to jump it but it didnt work. either that or i couldnt find the right wires but ill clean up the batt and try to jump it again and let ya know. thanks
 

tonkadoctor

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Apply the KISS principle and get the batteries charged and load tested first before blaming the starter. Advance, Autozone and many others will do this for free for you. You can also take the starter and alternator in too if you're so inclined and have them tested for free too.

One bad shorted cell in either battery will kill the entire system and starting here with the basics and most common problem first can save you many hours and sometimes days of frustration looking at the wrong thing 99.9% of the time.

Also testing voltage with a voltmeter is not the way to do it. A battery can still have correct voltage but not be putting out the Amperage which is what really counts.
 

krawlr

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tonkadoctor said:
Also testing voltage with a voltmeter is not the way to do it. A battery can still have correct voltage but not be putting out the Amperage which is what really counts.

Testing the static charge means nothing, I was saying look at the voltage as you try to crank it. If it drops to nil the battery is either dead or discharged. If it doesn't drop you know you're chasing a connection/solenoid/starter.
 

tonkadoctor

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Testing the static charge means nothing, I was saying look at the voltage as you try to crank it. If it drops to nil the battery is either dead or discharged. If it doesn't drop you know you're chasing a connection/solenoid/starter.



krawlr Sorry, I did'nt even notice what you posted before I did about testing for voltage drop and wasn't making a refference to that which is a valid basic first test to get you in the right direction.

I just said what I did about the voltmeter because I've seen so many people think their batteries were good in the past because they had good voltage but did'nt get them load tested and then fight over the problem throwing money at starters and whatnot only to find out 3 days later in the end it was a bad battery that could have been changed in 10 minutes.

No harm meant
 

geonc

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WAKING THE STARTER with a hammer will only cause you to eventually have to rebuild/replace the starter!

Go to any rebuild shop and ask to see their pile of busted fields- magnets- from beating on the starter!

If you feel you must wack on the starter, use a dead blow hammer ;Sweet

Trying to start with weak batts can also in some cases not allow the sol to dis-engage, resulting in a no-start symptom as well.

Connections first, then load test batts, then have starting system checked----preferably by someone who doesn't believe the hammer will fix anything ;Really
 

krawlr

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;Sweet

I used to work for a guy that made voltage drop testing on the starting/charging system mandatory for any electrical/running problem. After cleaning the battery terminals & testing the battery wich was also done with every oil change.

It's all kinda burned into my system. LOL
 

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