Won’t restart after sitting for 30 minutes

Oldiron

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Truck starts just fine when cold. Glow plugs are out, block heater doesn’t work. A little squirt and she fires right up. Once warm if I shut it off and try to restart it after 30 minutes it won’t start. I have power to FSS and when I remove and reapply the connector I can hear it clicking. Injection pump was replaced 40k miles ago. Going to try the cool water test this evening. Any other ideas? Tests? Truck runs great.
 

Nero

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What do you mean glow plugs are out?
 

Oldiron

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Glow plugs are bad. I tried poring cool water over the pump but that didn’t make a difference. I noticed my fuel filter is leaking and it’s time to replace that. Can a FSS click but not actually be doing what it’s supposed to?
 

IDIBRONCO

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I'd try replacing that fuel filter ASAP. My guess is that it's the source of your problem.
 

Oldiron

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Ill replace the filter, but the truck starts just fine when it is cold. I also remembered it has randomly had an issue shutting off. it would slowly shut down. I say it "diesels" like an old carb gasser. so i am thinking the fss is getting stuck in a possition either open or closed.
 

Rdnck84_03

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When you install the new filter, fill it with ATF or your diesel treatment of choice. It sounds to me like something in the injection pump is a little sticky.

James
 

Oldiron

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Rdnk84_03 appreciate the advise. I almost always use something in my fuel, weather it be Howes, PS, ATF.
 

Tizzy

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I had a similar problem awhile back. Truck would start cold. If ran until warmed up, would crank back up if immediately cranked after shutting off. But if you let it sit for about 30 or so minutes, would not crank until truck completely cooled back off. I thought was injector pump, did cool water test with no luck. Put a new starter (Powermaster) on it and it cranks up faster than ever. Turns out starter was getting weak, and heat sink was making it not turn engine fast enough to crank. Not stating that could be your solution, but worth a thought.
 

Oldiron

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I am replacing the FSS today. Removed the old one and it is cracked. I thought i fully understood the installation procedure, but now i am wondering how exactly do the components engage underneath the cover. Everything I've seen talks about setting it down and then moving forward. Is the little arm on the FSS lever supposed to drop infront of the shaft and then behind the little tab?
 

Oldiron

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Ok it's done and back to running. I dont know why I struggled with the lid, maybe because it didnt fire right up and i had to prime the system.
 

Oldiron

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I'm still having an issue. On my way home last night it stalled going through an intersection. I was able to simply let out the clutch and it picked right back up. It was hard to start when i left work and the idle was really low, at times it would just die if i wasnt pushing the peddle trying to warm it up. This morning it fired right up and idled normal. I have a new air filter and fuel filter for before my electric lift pump. What would cause a low or no idle?
 

Oldiron

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Truck fired right up this morning, drove ok on the way to work. With the exception of it stalling after getting off the interstate, and firing right back up. Changed the fuel filter before the electric lift pump and a new air filter. It took a bit to get it to fire up. Not sure if it was due to replacing the fuel filter or if it was due to what ever is going on. Ill know when i go to leave work today. Once it fired up the idle was low. I believe it has been low for a while. Tach isn't reading accurately, believe I need a new sender. I adjusted the idle for now.

I installed the current IP about 40k miles ago. When I installed it I also installed the electric lift pump and prefilter. I set the timing with the tool I rented from where I purchased the IP.

So, my question is this,,,

Is there a reason for me to have to adjust my timing (things like lift pump not suppling the original psi therefor retarding the timing, IP wearing in? Or is it normal to have to simply adjust the idle ?
 

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