What do I need to know.....

Ottoparts

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I took a promotion at work and will be heading to Eagan, Minnesota.
I wont be leaving until late December, early January.
What preparation should I do to my rust free truck before I get to
there?
 

87crewdually

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I took a promotion at work and will be heading to Eagan, Minnesota.
I wont be leaving until late December, early January.
What preparation should I do to my rust free truck before I get to
there?

I'd say prepare for the cold. Glowplug system, block heater, batteries, fresh fuel filter, antifreeze levels, check/top all fluids, and oil & filter is a good start.

Or be like some and turn the key and go!
 

dakotajeep

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Have the entire truck rhino lined. The salt is going to eat the truck up.

Thad
 

RLDSL

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Start running Howes in your fuel NOW and don't stop. Make sure to pop a fresh filter on right before you leave and have a few spares on hand but if you start treating now you shouldn't need the spares unless you get a bad fill, but a bad fill of really watery dirty fuel in severely sub zero temps can have you changing filters every 30 miles, but if you have been running Howes the whole time, chances are you won't have any problems. I've been in -80 and worse with that stuff and come out OK .I've gelled on every other product out there at one time or another

If you are running a heavier lube in your diff, consider going to a lighter one. Make sure your door seals are tight( nothing worse than snow blowing in past your door seals) Invest in a set of snow chains there from Security Chain there in OR, some of those lightweight chains with the diamond pattern stay tight and don't break, or even better invest in a set of dedicated snow tires for winter ( no , ALL weather , all season, or M+S do not count) get some studded Nokians or Green Diamonds so you can actually drive on ice and not have to worry otherwise you are going to spend a great deal of time in the ditch looking up wondering when the wrecker is going to get there
 

FordGuy100

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Honestly...this is what I would do.

Run 100% motor oil. Loosen two injector lines. Run like that for two tanks. Sounds crazy but the underside of your truck would then be undercoated with oil which would help some with the salt.
 

87crewdually

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Honestly...this is what I would do.

Run 100% motor oil. Loosen two injector lines. Run like that for two tanks. Sounds crazy but the underside of your truck would then be undercoated with oil which would help some with the salt.

Thats the craziest thing I heard all day, and I talked to my wife twice already! At $2.50 a quart for oil it would be cheaper and immediate results using sprayable undercoating. Nevermind the rainbow puddles around your truck every where you park.
 

subway

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after dealing with the rust on my truck and looking forward to more work stopping it i wonder if i could put some sacrificial anode on my truck like they do on boats. havent reasurched it yet but i hate rust.
 

FordGuy100

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Thats the craziest thing I heard all day, and I talked to my wife twice already! At $2.50 a quart for oil it would be cheaper and immediate results using sprayable undercoating. Nevermind the rainbow puddles around your truck every where you park.

WMO can be had for free. Filter it out. When I crossthreaded two injectors my while underside was covered in diesel after driving it. That was two years ago. For about a year that diesel stayed in almost everything underneath. If anything it is a temporary substitute for undercoating.
 

FordGuy100

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Probably the best remedy though is to pay me a small monthly fee to park your truck down here in Texas. I will even be nice enough to drive it for you LOL

If I found myself up north and I had the means I would park the truck in a garage and buy a cheapo rusted out all wheel drive or 4x4 vehicle.
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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after dealing with the rust on my truck and looking forward to more work stopping it i wonder if i could put some sacrificial anode on my truck like they do on boats. havent reasurched it yet but i hate rust.

Hey Jared they work fricken awesome. One of my EO's that was in my unit had an 87 super cab 4X4 with the anode bar setup and the truck didn't have one spec of rust on it and it spent the entire life in Michigan till some old lady pulled out in front of him and tboned her totaling out the truck.
 

Ottoparts

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The current plan on the books is as follows:
1) cut air flow holes in my front bumper.
2) add the largest tranny cooler I can find.
3) flush tranny, add new filter and put on a deeper pan.
4) new fluid both axles
5) flush engine coolant system and add new thermostat (from Ford) and hoses.
6) new injectors from type4
7) same time as injectors, new glow plugs
8) fuel filter and check into some Howes

Tires are new. Only a year old. So I'm good there.
I will be towing either my Mustang or the race car.
I plan on buying a beater rig when I get there.

Thanks everyone for the advice.
Feel free to add more as you all think of it
 

Simp5782

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I dunno which does worse damage, salt or the chunks of gravel and rock they throw on the roads here in Montana. A new windshield last about 15mins before it gets a crack. or chipping paint. I guess the state of montana is to cheap for salt. hm.
 

RLDSL

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I dunno which does worse damage, salt or the chunks of gravel and rock they throw on the roads here in Montana. A new windshield last about 15mins before it gets a crack. or chipping paint. I guess the state of montana is to cheap for salt. hm.

Not that they're too cheap, it's just too friggen cold for salt to do any good LOL All it does is melt it just long enough to refreeze into black ice and make it even more dangerous so instead they throw gravel on it to imbed into the stuff for traction, which actually works pretty nicely. I used to enjoy running a big truck across Montana in a blizzard, the roads always felt great with all that rock on them.
Enjoy the rocks and how much you are saving on tow bills ;Sweet
 

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