What am I doing wrong?

[rowingdude]

So I bought a set of reman injectors and a return kit for my truck, and this weekend, while watching Akron come to within one play of beating UM, I got one side done. I fired the truck up, and the return lines are leaking like a sieve. I don't recall the old ones spraying fuel out. The injectors had o-rings around what I assumed were the return ports, so I pushed the new set on and then torqued in new injectors. Do I need to replace the o-rings on the reman injectors?

 

[bookite03]

Did you lube the o-rings and caps? Use plenty and make sure each cap locks into place. Occasionally I've had to redo a couple, they can be picky.

 

[Wyreth]

Also check the inside of the caps for burrs, as that can slice up an o-ring.

A trick I really like that has done very very well for me, is to take one of the old o-rings and place it on top of the return cap. Then the injector line will press the cap down and hold it in place.

 

[theguruat12]

Do I need to replace the o-rings on the reman injectors?

When I replaced mine just for fun I left one of the injectors with the old o-rings to see if they NEEDED to be replaced. That injector leaked HORRIBLY, we're talking a fountain of Diesel coming down the block onto the ground. Definitely replace every o-ring. I used grease to assemble mine, but looking back, I would use some good old Vaseline, the jelly kind in the tub. Use plenty on each. Another tip: top o-ring on first. Then when putting the bottom one on, it will roll right over the top instead of getting stuck in the groove for the top one. It's not hard, just be careful not to nick the new ones.

 

[theguruat12]

A trick I really like that has done very very well for me, is to take one of the old o-rings and place it on top of the return cap. Then the injector line will press the cap down and hold it in place.

That's a great idea, I'm going to do that next time I have to redo mine.

 

[rowingdude]

Alright, does it make a difference if they sent me "B" Code injectors? I pulled "E" codes out. Thanks, I'll go lube and redo the O-rings.

 

[theguruat12]

No it should not matter as long as the full set is of the same code, might want to retime the engine if you switch codes though. Ask icanfixall about it, he rents out timing meters for our trucks and would be able to tell you the difference between the two types of injector. BB injectors are considered the best.

 

[rowingdude]

Alright, well these were $16 a piece, so I'm not too worried about them, I'll replace them when I go turbo... Gotta go get some grease I guess

 

[rowingdude]

So I went out and got some grease and took the lines that I made off and then I greased the O-rings, and put the new line kit on. The problem I think are the plastic things that route the "return fuel", the old ones seem to just pop right one with no, if any, play.. the new ones feel loose. I think I might reuse the old plastic bits and just replace the line, the old kit wasn't broken, but since I was replacing the injectors, I thought I'd replace the return.

 

[icanfixall]

What you have is two differant size return lines. There is 3/16 and 1/4 inch rubber hose. I'm betting you have them mixed up and thats why there is no interferance fit on the plastic caps nipples. Sorry for the not so good news. Every return line kit comes with the hose that fits the caps in the bag. If your mixing these with what you removed theres the reason for the leaks.

 

[rowingdude]

I wasn't mixing anything, I removed 100% of the old stuff and replaced it will all new stuff, the new stuff leaked, so I reinstalled the old return kit, which doesn't leak. Actually, it's a good thing I got in there because a couple of my GPs are "connected" with electrical tape

 

[NO_SPRK]

ive learned the hard way in my short life with the IDIs... always replace the return lines. true, i have had some that can be reused but for the most part they always leak