Very excited found 2 complete 6.9's

[Dirtleg]

Well I have decided to go ahead and build an engine to swap into my truck. My reasoning is that I need to do head work on the 7.3 and don't think I'll have much down time available to do the work. It would be much easier to build an engine and then swap it in.

So today I happened upon 2 6.9's for sale. Also includes a new in box, complete Ford gasket set. They are close by as well. I have already secured the deal I think (at least I was told I've got first shot).

Price for all of it is probably less than the gasket set cost. A far cry from all the $1000 and up + core prices that permeate this area.

I intend to build it to take advantage of the turbo and moosepump I've already got but not go into absurd $ in the process.

Then with the other motor I can use it as a jig to build things from. Maybe a high flow sheetmetal intake down the road or a block girdle for the bottom end. All of that would be time dependent and I may just be dreaming that I'll have the time but if that's the case, oh well.

 

[92F350CC]

 

[Diesel JD]

Gonna do a Dave Spounagle type buildup??

 

[Dirtleg]

Gonna do a Dave Spounagle type buildup??

Well the idea of slightly lower compression has crossed my mind. Ultimately I feel the extensive thermal prepping of the pipes leading into the turbo he did has probably been more benefit to making boost than anything else. The lower compression helps keep the cylinder pressures in check with the increased boost. I am going to port the heads and do a 3 or 5 angle valve job to help with airflow.

Icanfixall went into some detail about the precups and making sure they are all even in displacement and installation depth. I would like to study the function of the precup design just so I know exactly how they affect/control the combustion process. Then if I can legitimately make an improvement I will attempt it. Most likely I'll leave them alone.

My biggest interest at the moment is beefing up the valvetrain. I am going to try and retrofit some roller rockers. Also look into larger valves.

The truth of the matter is that I haven't had one of these open before and won't really know the limitations until I can get a good look.

 

[h2odrx]

What year are they? With the different castings in the heads you will need to be careful with valves cause the water jacket is VERRY close to the seat.! (Yes I misspelled that, ....so don't ask how I know) Someone will have more info on this but I just know it is real close and can ruin a head quick.

 

[Dirtleg]

What year are they?

One is from an 87' model year truck. Not sure about the other. I guess I'll have to check casting #'s to be exactly certain of what they are.

Thanks for the info about the water jackets and the valves proximity.

I tend to study things alot before making changes to them (past experience has made this necessary). I hate doing the same job twice. It'll get headstuds for sure. I doubt I would have used them on the 7.3 due to higher costs for that engine combined with the fact that I don't know the complete history of it. Hell cavitation could be right around the corner. I keep the SCA's within spec but don't know how long they weren't monitored. They were definitely not monitored by the PO but he only had it a year. Who knows?

One question for injector gurus. With the Moosepump and a turbo which injector will give me the best performance/economy results? They are all getting changed during the swap.

 

[FordGuy100]

One question for injector gurus. With the Moosepump and a turbo which injector will give me the best performance/economy results? They are all getting changed during the swap.

Some say G codes, some say BB codes. I'm on the fence, G codes came on factory turbo engines, so they should flow a lot, but then some people say they are actually more of a emmisions injector than the BB code, and that BB codes are better.

I think I will end up going with G codes, unless someone on here has a real good reason why not.

 

[Diesel JD]

As Justin said its a debate here. I think the BBs can handle the flow from a Moose Pump just fine. If you want to flow a LOT of fuel the Stage 1s do it but as noted do so at the cost of fuel atomization and Ken may or may not be able to be reached for comment or help should a problem arise. Personally I like the idea of staying with stock injectors until somebody comes up with a modified one that doesn't screw up the spray pattern, and i kind of think that's what you were asking about(stock stuff) further I prefer anything Delphi for the injectors, I think at least recently, they have done a much better job of QC than Stanadyne. At one point stanadyne said that only the pressure mattered not the atomization on IDIs, if I was going with that line of thinking I'd be buying DPS Stage 1s.... I have conflicting information as to if G codes can be had from Delphi or not. There is a diesel shop down in Altamonte Springs here in Florida that sells a lot of Delphi injectors and claims to have G code Delphis, and they sell both them and the BB codes at a very competitive price. I wonder if anyone knows for sure if the G codes are Stanadyne only and 2 what exactly the flow rate difference is between a BB and a G code. This info(flow rate) was once posted here or at TDS, but I haven't seen it in awhile. The 87 is probably a great choice for your build if its not in any kind of bad shape. It should have the upgraded pivot style rockers like your 7.3 does and the solid state glow plugs, but its a 6.9 and so cavitation shouldn't be a worry. Some people say stay away from the 83-84 blocks because of the block heater freeze plug cracking but I wouldn't be afraid of one that wasn't already cracked, in fact the A series does have very slightly lower compression than other 6.9s from what I read here.

 

[Dirtleg]

Yeah the 87 motor is a good rebuilder. Said it blew a headgasket but not severely. No water in the oil/oil in water. The guy tore it down to a shortblock as he anticipated building it himself but never got around to it and has since sold the truck. He ran an ATS turbo on it

The other motor spit a cam bearing. Not really sure of the extent of the damage as it's still assembled. Could be an easy rebuild or could be the block got screwed up. Won't know till I open it up and check for damage.

I was thinking and realized I am getting 2 sets of injectors with these motors. I should get them pop tested before buying new ones I suppose. It is going to be a budgeted build after all.