UPS Truck Ugly Plugs.. How Is This Possible????

[THECACKLER]

"UPS-Truck-Ugly" Plugs.. How Is This Possible????

Source: Pick-A-Part Engine.. 1994 IDIT CC

Mileage: 1994 Electronic Odometer !! Unknown Dangit

Condition: No visible signs of Abuse.. No water Damage..( an issue on the G.C. ) Missing Starter, GP Controller, Radiator & FF header.

Pre-Sales Inspection: OEM Injectors & Leaky Return lines ( still painted IH Gray ), otherwise in Decent condition

Assumptions: Low Mileage Trade in because of $5/ gal. fuel ??

Hopes And Dreams: New Injectors and Return Lines and stuffit & go!
Closer inspection.....
GP's Ohm Zero...

The I/P has a "Revised" timing mark but it looks like it's aligned with the OEM.

I am hesitant to test stand fire it but I just figured "what Have I got to lose".
Any Ideas how this happened?? What to look for next.

 

[Truck#3]

ouch!

 

[THECACKLER]

ouch!

Yeah, That wasn't my first choice of four letter words, but it'll work for here.

 

[punkmechanic]

as strange as it sounds thats about right for what most companies do to their rigs. If you leave gps in forever, have a "stupid" controller (on with key on, not computer controlled) like ours, and have a billion stop and go short trips.

the tops being painted lead me to believe it is a reman engine and the plugs coulda been junk to begin with, hence their current condition. not as common a problem on the newer stuff with "smart" controllers, but the early power smokes and even the 6.0 will destroy a set of plugs if the controller goes south.

punk

 

[punkmechanic]

on closer inspection of the plugs I would really pull the heads and be sure that the pre cups are intact. If the timing is advanced enough to damage gps, its gonna eat up other stuff to. head gaskets are cheaper than your labor of putting it in and finding out later.

punk

 

[tractorman86]

there didn't happen to be the factory exhaust up pipes(IIRC iron up pipe and reg crossover) that came with that engine did there?

 

[Devilish]

You should also remove the pan and check out the bottom end. An important thing to look for is the ih logo on the oil pump. If that engine is in fact a reman, the pump could be an aftermarket which means potential failure. This may seem like a lot to check on an engine but they suck to r&r so so doing this now can save you some headaches

 

[Agnem]

Does UPS ever shut their trucks down long enough for them to get cold? Maybe they are garage kept, block heater plugged in all the time, or maybe they find it cheaper to disconnect the glow plug system, and use either?

 

[icanfixall]

I'm kinda on the fence about installing this or take the pan and heads off for a check. You know how tuff this motor was run and those glow plug "parks" went somewhere. They may have imbedded in the piston tops or they may have gone thru the hot side of the turbo. Either way its a tuff choice. It got to the wrecking yard for a reason and information is your friend. Have you turned the motor one full revolution just to see if its locked up yet???

 

[THECACKLER]

TRACTORMAN - Yes, the engine has the F-Factory "Iron Y" bolted to the Right Exhaust Manifold and an Iron Up-pipe to the Turbo. The crossover and the tailpipe were cut before they put it out in the yard. I couldn't figure that out until I started searching for a new Junkyard X-over pipe. That'a when I discovered something interesting. The EPA Forbids Auto Dismantlers from re-selling any Exhaust Component past the Manifolds. Guess you'll have to search the Canadian yards for them. I was lucky to find one.

Clarification To All.. My Bad.. I need to clarify the source of this engine. It didn't come out of a UPS truck as my title may have misled some to think. It came out of a Crew Cab that appeared to be a Private Citizen's truck, non commercial. I'm old school and if something is very nasty we say "it's not just Ugly, or even Truck Ugly, but it's just plain UPS Truck Ugly" Sorry about that.
So back to the chase.. I can't check the controller, 'cause it's gone. The fresh paint visible in the IP picture is my doing. There was however still the Factory gray paint on all the Injectors, Return Lines and all but one Cap. The Right side Crossover Return Tee had been replaced but they didn't replace the any of the 3 lines connected to it. There were signs of Fuel staining on the tops of the Valve covers. The valve cover gaskets were a little leaky, but less than what would be considered bad. There is a very fresh New Water Pump on it that was just starting to surface rust. I painted that and it looked so good that I cleaned the rest of the Engine and painted it too.
When I saw the leaky Returns and Ohm-ed the first GP and it was dead, I figured they just cranked the Starter and GP to death fighting air in the system. I didn't think the GP Controller would stay on long enough after burning out a few GP's to destroy the rest, but I guess it could if it was defective. Anyways, the GP's were all German BERU's not some Chinese Crap. That led me to think Advanced Timing, but the marks are aligned.
PUNKMECHANIC - I turned the Engine over with a Breaker Bar & 15/16" socket and it rolls fine. Even feels like decent Compression. But those tips went somewhere. There's carbon all over them so it ran like that. I checked the Turbine but it looks fine.
So... I guess I need to pull the heads and be ready to do a Re-Ring and perhaps New Pistons. If so should I go with the -.0.0.10" Reduced Compression Mahle's? Also what should I look for on the Heads? Just damaged Pre-Cups? Does the GP tip debris typically damage the Valves or Bend the Connecting Rods? Sorry for all the Q's but I have never built a Diesel before, just lots and lots of Gasoline Burners. Any advise is appreciated.

 

[argve]

if it were me - I would toss new plugs in it and see what happens - you will want to get it timed because the glow plugs show signs that the engine is way far advanced or was at some point.

 

[tractorman86]

i'd pull the heads and have a machinest check them out next check the pistons and such, dont rering if you don't have to. pop the oil pan and didn't you say you have a set of bearings? put them in if they are the correct size.
so you have them but they're cut? would you sell them anyway?

 

[punkmechanic]

I would say that it is really bad advanced and the gp controller is bad. If it turns over ok by hand then pull the waterpump and front cover and verify the timing marks on the gears are correct. If so then pull the pump and swap for a known good one, put a set of good plugs in it and fire it. We get them in to the shop from time to time with bad controllers and most or all of the plugs look like yours, they drive in and drive out. I dont condone it but, these motors seem to be able to "pass" a glow plug tip without detremental damage.

If it where me I would pull the pan and heads to have a look see and freshen things up. as long as things look good, then run it and see what happens. If it runs at all you get more than your money's worth and if it is damaged internally then the parts should get your money back.

punk

 

[THECACKLER]

Why Not?

Yeah, I think I'm game for the New GP's and fire it off on the ground to see what it does. I really can't afford the $250 for a Gasket set for an exploratory trip through it. Right now it's on blocks on my slab because I don't have an Engine stand that will handle it safely.I'm building one... But I think I can bolt a tranny to it and fab some supports off the Motor & Tranny Mounts to keep it stable enough to test run it. Pulling the pan and doing Rod Bearings while hanging from chains on an Engine Hoist is not my idea of Mechanical Coolness.
So... Any clues on Timing by ear? I know it's not Kosher but until I have the proper tools to do it correctly I'm totally in the dark. I listen to other Diesels but most are Power Strokes or Perkins' and they sound louder than my IDI. I would rather err on the side of safety then to hose it any further. These engines are way too sweet for that.
My only other option is to load it onto my trailer and ferry it over to the Local Diesel shop or Ford or IH Stealer and pay them to time it. If that's the case I would rather swap out the pump with my old DB2-4021 pump from my '90 N/A first. It's got 300Kilo miles on it but it seemed to work OK when I pulled it. I don't have the coin right now for a new Pump & Injectors, but I could see about getting a WP gasket and checking the gear alignment while doing the pump swap.
You guys are great. Thanks so much for your advise. I just assumed that gulping the Glow Plugs was a ticket for new Mahle's. Thanks again.

 

[THECACKLER]

i'd pull the heads and have a machinest check them out next check the pistons and such, dont rering if you don't have to. pop the oil pan and didn't you say you have a set of bearings? put them in if they are the correct size.
so you have them but they're cut? would you sell them anyway?

TRACTORMAN. I'm keeping the Iron "Y" and up-pipe but the cut crossover is up for grabs. I was going to take it to the Muffler shop and have them cut out the bad section and make a slip joint connector similar to the way BANKS does their X-overs. If You're in need I'll take a picture of it ( both pieces and E-mail it to ya. PM me if you want.