Turbo is on...

82F100SWB

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Well, I finally mocked up my turbo on my buddy's spare 7.3 so I could measure up for the oil feed lines, and got them made up today, then I decided that I was done fooling around, and that the turbo was going on my truck today...
It turns out that even though my turbo came off of an E4OD equipped truck, and had been initially installed on that truck, the y-pipe fits my 4 speed truck just fine.
I must say, those of you who have installed turbos on trucks without a body lift :hail :hail :hail :hail
I can only imagine what it's like to not have any room whatsoever to do that install. Now that I have it on, come the spring, I'm re-building that y-pipe and uppipe, I have absolutely no need for that crimped section that would normally sit between the firewall and the bellhousing, and, if I folded the pinch weld, I'd probably have room for a 4" down pipe.... LOL
All in all, I have to say that probably the most difficult part of the whole job was tightening down the nuts that hold the turbo to it's pedestal, and removing the stock exhaust system... Getting the nuts off to remove the stock y-pipe was a matter of heat them up cherry red, get 3/4's of a turn on them heat them again, and so on... After all that trouble, I went and buggered up the threads on the drivers side studs during re-assembly... LOL
Ah well.. Other than an exhaust leak at the drivers side manifold, I seem to have it all nice 'N tight...
Now I just need to get my gauges installed... My pyro is still in the truck that this turbo kit came from, and my boost gauge isn't here yet...

Still, I have LOTS of respect for anyone who has done one of these on a truck without a body lift. That must be extremely tight, I know I had fun getting my hands in to tighten bolts and such.
 

Exekiel69

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Good for You, it sure does bring a :D to My face when I remember the day I got My turbo. Is not all that difficult, what I did was fit a car jack between the tranny and the firewall and separate them as necessary I call it " the EZ system" :D .
 

oldmisterbill

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I made my own oil feed line for my non wastgated ATS turbo form 3/8 tubing . I used clips with tight rubber gromets to prevent vibrations,a major cause of metal fatigue. The 3/8 line gives better oil flow,I drilled the fittings as large as I could while maintaing its strength. It was time consuming to get the right lenth line and bending it was a real challange.I have plenty of clearence between the fire wall and the line,it also is further away from the exhaust manifold then it appears in the photo.I feel being mounted tightly will be better than the origional flexable line-less chance of chafing -less crimped fittings to leak-Time will tell all. Hope I am right.
The last picture is of my oil pressure manifold which gave me a place for my mechanical gauge-and my emergency low oil pressure switch. Basicly what I did was solder the brass t-fitting to a strip of heavy sheet metal drill a hole to bolt it to an intake manifold bolt -bent it so it lays under the fuel rail.It is bent so when it is tightened it is tight against the manifold to prevent vibration-there is also a peice of rubber between the strip and the manifold incase it wanted to vibrate and wear a mark into the manifold.The copper line that goes to the origional oilpressure sending unit hole is slid into a vinal tube -again to prevent chaffing of any sort. Now all my oil pressure lines are out in the open fore ease in removal.
Oh yes I can spell better its just my DBF (damm big finners) hit too many keys at once,and I seem to proof read too quickly.I HATE TYPING!!!
 

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82F100SWB

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I contemplated using tubing, as, being an oil burner technician and spending more than a few years working as a mechanic, I'm more than comfortable working with it, flaring, etc, but, my local parts store/hyd shop was able to make me up the lines(1/4" hose with JIC fittings, compatable with the AN-4 fittings that came with the banks kit) and supply all the fittings, and a steel 1/4 pipe tee to adapt the oil sending unit to, mirroring the Banks setup(hose from the block to the tee, hose from the tee to the turbo, and the sender screwed into the tee,) for $50 CDN, it'd have been considerably more than $50 worth of aggrivation to try and route the tubing with the engine in the truck.
 

oldmisterbill

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I didn,t do it to save maney or agravation.I just have more faith in solid steel lines.Mine was plumbed with copper and single flares when I got it.I don't like heavy copper in vibrating enviorments.But I may have a good set of flexable lines if someone needs them (no gaurentee I,ll take a look)
 

82F100SWB

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I'll agree with you on that one, copper + vibration = trouble.
A solid steel line would work quite nicely, and I may go that way if/when I have the engine out of the truck. I would have done steel lines, it'd be cheaper than using hyd hose, but, quite simply, there isn't good enough access with it in the truck to be able to place, bend and secure it as should be done.
 

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