Truck REFUSES to charge after 6.0L GP harness install?

[crash-harris]

Either one is fine by me, lol. Better than my shady Jasper reman. I'll have to check when I'm out there next, but it looked like the base of that oil pressure sensor extension was 1/4" NPT vs the N/A's 1/8", but it is setup for v-belts.

Biggest thing is the current heads not dropping a valve before I can get them swapped. I swear it sounds like my problems are from cylinder #2.

 

[ifrythings]

So now I'm wondering if the worn/loose belt on the first 3G caused a big power spike, tripped the breaker and I ended driving too much with the alternator producing power, but it not going anywhere. Maybe the breakers are just junk and tripping before their designated amperage rating and killed the second one. I left the cables previously attached to either side of the breaker on the same post to eliminate the breaker and added ground cable from the back of the alternator to the filter head bracket. We'll see how it does I guess.

Where do you have the yellow wire hooked up that goes to the alternator? Is it before or after the breaker? If it’s after the breaker (starter relay side) and the breaker opens, the alternator doesn’t know this and will produce a very high voltage on its output (up to 80v or so) which will destroy the diodes in short order. This is why ford put the charge wire and yellow feedback wire together before the fusible link so the alt turns off when the link fails.

If your yellow wire isn’t opened with the breaker you need to move it so it does.

 

[crash-harris]

The breaker isn't being used for anything other than a single post right now that both charge cables and the yellow wire are connected to.

 

[Nick382]

Either one is fine by me, lol. Better than my shady Jasper reman. I'll have to check when I'm out there next, but it looked like the base of that oil pressure sensor extension was 1/4" NPT vs the N/A's 1/8", but it is setup for v-belts.

Biggest thing is the current heads not dropping a valve before I can get them swapped. I swear it sounds like my problems are from cylinder #2.

I didn't actually check anything on the motor after I pulled the turbo parts and IP. I am shamelessly regurgitating what the PO told me. It's possible it's an IDIT block; but I seriously doubt I would have gotten the price I did if it were. Seems those turbo heads are desirable.

If it were me, I'd be checking into swapping those over sooner than later if you suspect your motor is going to suffer for waiting.

Wish you luck either way, friend!


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[crash-harris]

It's a matter of getting my wife's Ranger up and rubbing again so I can use our car. Then collecting the last few things I need for the job and accessibility to my grandparents "barn" at that point. If the ground is wet, not only would I dig giant ruts in their back yard, I'd have to wait until it dried to even attempt to get the truck out. Planning to (hopefully) pickup an engine stand this week and get the heads off. Going to drain and fog the rest of the block and wrap it in plastic wrap after that.

 

[crash-harris]

Hopefully picking up a Harbor Freight 2 ton stand this week and getting the engine hung on it. I'm feeling more confident that my charging issue was a result of the breaker inline with the charging cables. Planning to replace it with a mega fuse and holder on down the line. After making a few more trips it's still charging normally.