tips for pump R&R ???

[94matt]

This weekend I'll be pulling my winged vp and exchanging it for a hot rod pump. What do I need to know besides, "don't drop the key" ??

I've seen where it's easier to pull the lines off in two sets of three, but other than that , not much advice.

I'm thinking about soldering a tap into the pump wire and getting away from my pump cover, would it be easier while the pump is out??

Thanks
Matt

 

[Whit]

Matt, here is a good acticle on how to do this job

vp-44 change out

Cheers, Kevin

 

[94matt]

Not sure what I'm doing wrong, but I can't find it

 

[Whit]

I think its under tech Matt but not sure, I will find it later........gotta get some sleep the job has been bustin my ***

 

[MarkSmith]

Not sure if you have done the pump yet.

Did ya get r done??

If not ABSOLUTELY solder the wire while it is out. Its a royal PITA to get to while it is in the truck.

You'll need a puller for the pump, and basic hand tools. It is pretty much straight forward.

Pull the air horn, APPS/TPS, Grid Heater, Injector lines (pairs of three, 1-2-4 and 3-5-6) Leave the little blue isolators on and pull the bolts that go into the intake. Pull off the breather tube and turn the plastic piece that is on the front of the motor counter clockwise to remove. Some are stubborn, they will come though.

Remove the nut and lock washer from behind this piece. Use the alternator nut to rotate the motor until the keyway is at the top of the shaft (a mirror is handy) Pull the plug to the injector pump, take the nuts off the back of the injector pump where they attach to the case. Take the bolts off the rear support bracket down toward the motor mount. Use the puller to push the shaft out of the gear from the front of the motor. Some come hard... some easy. Have a buddy there to 'catch' the pump if necessary.

The only tricky part is to not knock the keyway into the timing gears when you re-insert it. I try to use locktite and let it set up over night to keep this from happening. Patience and finesse is all it takes to do it.

Another thing is to have the gaskets handy for the air horn. I haven't ever done it without screwing at least one of them up. They are cheap from cummins, just have one on hand before you start.

All in all I would say it shouldn't take you more than 6 hours if you haven't ever done it before. I have done a few and my times are down around 3 hours to R&R a pump.

Torque the pump nut on the gear to 125 ft-lbs.

If ya already got it. Good on ya. This might help someone in the future.

Mark

 

[MarkSmith]

Since I am not allowed to edit the original post (Why is this Mods???) I will clarify.

When I say pull the plug to the pump I mean the main electrical harness that attaches to the pump. There is a sliding lock lever that has to be slid toward the fender well, then the plug will come out fairly easily. There usually is a void sticker of some sort keeping the slider from sliding.

Good Day
Mark

 

[Whit]

Originally posted by MarkSmith
Since I am not allowed to edit the original post (Why is this Mods???) I will clarify.

Good Day
Mark

Mark, This is beyond my capacity to fix, ISNMU of Muddy can get it for ya. I will let them know

Cheers, Kevin

 

[94matt]

Yep, got her done, and then got to change it back out, now waiting for my pump to get back here so I can swap out pumps for the third time in a week

All in all, it's a pretty easy swap. First time took 3.5 hours, second time took alittle over 2 hours. I hear it takes the guys that do it regularly about 1.5 hours, I can see where that's possible. It goes faster when you know exactly which tools to lay out before you get started.

As for the Hot rod VP, I am anxious to get it back and hopefuuly running right. After I installed it, I could not get rid of the 0216 code, and it would idle high when it was warmed up. Other than that, it ran pretty strong, even with no box and stock injectors. I can't wait to try it out with my injectors, it's supposed to make the HO's work even better with larger injectors . The weirdest difference I noticed was the sound of the new pump, hard to explain but, it sounded more like a powerstroke. We'll see if it still does when I get it back.



Matt

 

[94matt]

Forgot to mention a little tip I found that might help others. Instead of buying a different puller for the gear, I used my steering wheel puller with the two short bolts from the intake horn. They are the correct thread and almost perfect length.

Matt

 

[Whit]

Sounds great Matt, keep us tuned with the performance of the hotrod VP-44 eh

Cheers, Kevin

 

[94matt]

Just a little update.

I love the new pump!!

I've got my injectors back in, comp plugged in for boost fooler capability. My truck really runs strong just between the pump and injectors, best part is, there is minimal smoke.

I'm trying to make up my mind about just getting a boost fooler and not run the comp anymore, it really is that big of a difference.
I still get a little off boost smoke, but I can easily avoid it and the truck takes off..... With hardly any smoke. That might be a downer to some of you guys, but I'm really getting into having my truck be fast and efficient.

That's it for now,
Matt

 

[Venom]

Where did you get your Hot rod vp? What kind of warranty do they offer and what did it set you back?
TIA

 

[94matt]

Brady at Industrial Injection.

Warranty is one year unlimited miles as long as the wire's not tapped.

Price was great, I've spent money with him before, you'll have to see what kind of deal he makes you . They sell the pump for less than what some places sell a standard rebuild for if that helps you out any.

Matt

 

[Whit]

Matt, any diif on the dino with the new hotrodpump on

 

[94matt]

Sorry for the delay, my computer died and I am now up and running on a new dell.

Anyways, no I have not dynoed with the new pump. I am fairly confident that it is as powerful with pump and injectors as it was with drag comp, stock pump, and same injectors. I have not tapped the wire on the new pump and I'm leaning towards not doing so. I'm still in the same boat as before though, super under-turboed, but I'm working on something that will hopefully change that .

With the comp turned on level 1 I get even more bottom end, but I think I've past my own requirements for how hard I want the thing to run...... huh. never thought I'd say that .

I'll let you take it for a spin next time I'm up that way Kevin, see what you think.


Matt