Thoughts on removing olives and cleaning inj bores

[gatorman21218]

On the hard line connecting the filter to the IP I cant get the olives out. They must be original because they are so hard in there that after 30 minutes of picking at them with a small screwdriver and a steel wire its lilke I have gotten nowhere. Is there anything I can soak them in to loosen the rubber up? I need to go find one of those dental picks, but again its like they are plastic and glued to the nut.


Also how best should i clean the injector holes? i went and got a gun cleaning kit, but it doesnt work that great, there is some pb-blaster in some of the holes too where I had to soak them. I guess what Im asking is how clean should they be? All the copper washers came out and I plan to crank the engine over without the glowplugs to clear out any pb blaster or brake cleen that may be sitting in the precups.

 

[icanfixall]

About the injector bore.. Are they full of carbon or what.... If its carbon you need to look closely at the copper washers and see if any cuts are in them. If they have cuts then you have cuts in the seat on the heads... Now you need a seat cleaning tool to recut the seats. They are expensive but sometimes they are found on ebay kinda inexpensive too. Figure around $400.00 new and $100.00 used. I have a couple of them and several other members have them. They are a great tool when you need them... A dental pick tool is what I use to remove the hardened olives when I replace them too. Once you get them cleaned out I'll bet you wont be allowing them to sit in the nut till they get hard again.... If you give up just find a wrecking yard and pull that line from a engine... Remember you have an olive thats fits the 3/8 line from the lift pump to the filter inlet. The feed line from the filter to the injection pump is 5/16 olive...

 

[gatorman21218]

hmm I got a five pack of them not sure what size they are.

There is some carbon in all of the bores, and a couple have a black slurry of pb blaster/carbon. I will try to clean some more tomorrow when I have some light. Man that tool is expensive! more then a whole set of injectors. Ill see if i cant find that link RDSL posted it had one for 250 something

 

[gatorman21218]

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=OTC5023&source=froogle&kw=OTC5023

found it. still more than I would like to spend on a tool I will use once every 10 years

 

[towcat]

i use the sprial wire cleaning brush for a 12ga. shotgun in the main bore area and in the seat area, I use the tool you posted.

 

[jayel73]

reamer

Same tool, I think.
A little cheaper.

http://fordspecialtools.com/Detail.aspx?id=853&cid=4

 

[gatorman21218]

well I found one on ebay and bought it 80 bucks shipped.

 

[RLDSL]

You can cut that dried up olive out with an xacto knife with the blade on the end. Just poke it straight in and make a series of cuts m then dig it out with a pick in sections, it will come out easy once you have it cut up otherwuse you can fight that thing all week.

I use the 12ga shotgun bore brush too

 

[gatorman21218]

thanks rob I will try that too. At this point I am worrying about ever getting a good seal again. all that picking and poking cant be good for that brass nut

Is there anything I can soak it in to loosen it up?

 

[sassyrel]

thanks rob I will try that too. At this point I am worrying about ever getting a good seal again. all that picking and poking cant be good for that brass nut

Is there anything I can soak it in to loosen it up?

take a q tip,and put some brake fluid on it--that expands most rubber--

 

[icanfixall]

Brake fluid... Great idea... thats stuff removes paint and softens any rubber anytime... No amount of picking around in there will cause the fitting to leak. That nut crushes the rubber to the tubing so it wont leak. Just make sure you push the tubing into the female fitting till it bottoms out The rubber seal against the tube... The female fitting edge and the nut.... Works as a vibration isolater and seal.... another geat ford engineering idea right there...

 

[Diesel JD]

Jim, I eliminated that hard line. Tractorman86 was making hydraulic lines as hard line replacements a couple years ago. I don't know if he's still around here but there's no reason you couldn't follow in his footsteps. It makes a great seal and I can get it off and reseal it if I need to and not have to fool around with that lame rubber donut ever again. I've never been as picky as these guys about the injector bores but what they are telling you is the correct way to do it. If you can do it once, do it right. I had never heard of having problems with the injector seat being screwed up...how does that happen? Doesn't the copper gasket make up for some level of imperfection down there?

 

[gatorman21218]

Well I know people have changed injectors before without using that tool but hey I think if its worth doing its worth doing right.

As far as that line goes I am going to go soak it in brake fluid and if that olive doesnt melt off like butter I am going to replace the line. I bet that 3/8th line is just as bad too.

 

[Diesel JD]

I didn't just slap the new injectors in, I got the old coppers out and cleaned the bores with shop rags or paper towels on a screw driver. The tool would probably be the best and a 12 ga. shotgun bore cleaner would be better than what I did. My injectors have stayed seated but they don't seem to live as long as they should. I always attributed that to bad fuel when I was learning how to make biodiesel, not capping the injectors during installation my first couple of times meaning some crap might have gotten in there and damaged them, poor QC from the factory/rebuilder or excessive carbon buildup from lots of low egt daily driving or some combination of these factors. Am I wrong in thinking that the copper will make up for slight imperfections in the injector seat?

 

[icanfixall]

The copper gasket can't "repair" a cut seat. Thats the job for the seat reamer. Any carbon in the injector bore is from compression leaking past the copper gasket... there just isn't any other way for it to get in there... Some members have posted they had so much crabon buildup that the end of the injector unscrewed and was left in the head... Then you need to grind off all the heavy threads off the injector body and screw it back into the trpped nozzle. Then slide hammer or rock it back and forth till it breaks free. One member here who we will call pile driver broke off a file end in the nozzle bore trying to remove the stuck copper washer..... Not good... So I loaned him my seat reamer but.... I told him it was not going to remove the broken file end because it was hardened steel plus... That will ruin the seat reamer... Well... Many months later after plenty of requests for my reamer back I finally got it.... RUINED FOR SURE.... I am still mad about that... The guy did what I told him not to do... Some kinda fool I guess but nope... worse... He used a "small drill" and drilled into the seat on each side of the broken file trying to loosen it... Nope.... Then wanted to run the engine with th injector missing... I told him no way because the injection pump was still going to pump fuel even if the injector was not in the head... He felt he could just plug up that injector line and run anyway.... He doesn't post here any longer... Hopefully moved on and bought a pinto or amc gremlin for transportation...