humm... i see, now what did you do to put it on, don't you have to rough it up real good? i'd think the best way would be like sandblasting or something...? and i see yours looks about the same as his, his were used too i forgot about that, they'd stick better to new ones? did you coat the skirts too?
ooo and are the wristpins pressed in or if i take the end clips out will the pins slide out? i have to dissassemble my pistons after the machine shop put them together.
thanks,
-Jon
Here's the article on prepparation and application copied directly from the Techline site. Read the whole thing. About 3/4th down the page you will see that they tell you to
Burn Off / BAKE used parts to burn off the contaminates absorbed from use .... you do this after you clean them but before sandblasting them.
Tools and Procedures[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The following is a list of the basic equipment and product needed to successfully apply TECH LINE Coatings.
This list is only general and in many cases will be augmented with additional equipment such as acid and alkaline rinse tanks as well as phosphating equipment. However the shop that utilizes the following equipment will be able to apply the full range of TECH LINE products.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Pre-clean all parts. Remove all oil, grease, dirt, moisture or other contaminates.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Sandblast utilizing 120 grit aluminum oxide or comparable at @40 PSI in a suction type cabinet. You may use 100grit on exhaust parts.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Remove all blasting residue or oil from hands if handled. It is best to handle with hooks or clean, cotton gloves.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Apply the coating. For best results use a gravity feed (top feed) detail touch up type gun with a nozzle size of about 0.8. Either standard of HVLP. Apply coatings at 35 to 40PSI for solvent born coatings or 50 to 60 PSI for water born coatings. Film thickness will vary from .0003” to 0015”. All coatings should go on with a wet appearance. Multiple coats are not necessary and are waste full. Coating should be applied in a spray booth with proper ventilation. Use appropriate chemical respirators when spraying solvent born coatings. When spraying water born coatings it is best to wear a respirator as well to avoid breathing fine particulate matter and mists as some contain a small amount of acid. Always consulate the MSDS
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Inspect parts for complete coverage and for runs or other indications of improper coverage.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]For most coatings simply allow 5 to 15 minutes at room temperature for drying. In the case of, Cermakrome in particular a slight force dry at about 115f is necessary. All water born coatings need a little heat to accelerate water evaporation.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Inspect parts for complete coverage and for runs or other indications of improper coverage.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Bake in any oven capable of holding the parts and achieving the range of bake temperatures. Normally baking at temperatures above 500f is not necessary. However acquiring an oven that will reach over 750f can be advantageous in special applications. An upright air-circulating oven is best, using either gas or electricity for heating. Do not use an oven for a header that does not allow the parts to be “hung” as lying down could mark the coatings. Bake time is 1 hour, the time starts when the part(s) reach the bake temperature.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]After parts cool, Inspect parts for complete coverage and for runs or other indications of improper coverage.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]For Cermakrome it will be necessary to conduct a polishing operation. For best results polish large pieces in a vibratory polisher utilizing Microbright ceramic balls and the appropriate polishing compound.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Inspect for proper polish and to ascertain that the coating has not delaminated or been polished through.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]TECH LINE does not recommend any specific brand of oven. A brand name that can identify to an equipment dealer what type of oven you are looking for is “Dispatch”. Any oven of an adequate size and heat range will work. All ovens should be explosion proof and vented properly. Heating capacity should be to at least 650f, since the several coatings have a 500f cure. If possible acquire an oven that reaches 850f since some coatings prefer a 650f to 750f cure, though this is not an absolute necessity.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]A spray booth should be utilized. Commercial booths are available. W.W. Grainger Co. handles explosion proof fan motors as well as some booths. Many times units can be found used at a very good price. They also can be easily constructed, though be sure to meet your local fire regulations. All booths should be vented to the outside.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]All air pressures given by TECH LINE for sandblasting are based on the use of a suction type sandblast cabinet. Pressure pots while excellent for many applications must be pressurized at much lower settings than are given in our instructions. If using a pressure pot you will need to experiment to determine the proper working pressure. In addition a pressure pot will need an internal agitator to keep the solid in suspension.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The solvents recommended for degreasing are; acetone, M.E.K., lacquer thinner or other non-petroleum based materials. You must use a solvent that leaves no residue. In many instances if you handle the parts with hooks or clean cotton gloves it will not be necessary to degrease after blasting. If the part has been handled be sure that the solvent is completely evaporated before applying any coating. [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]When preparing to coat used parts it is best to do a “burn off” or bake the part, for 20 to 30 minutes, to remove any contaminates that may have been absorbed into the part during use. Generally this should be done before sandblasting, at a temperature slightly higher than the cure temperature of the coating to be applied. This will drive out any contaminate that could affect the bond of the coating during the cure cycle.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]CBC2 may be burnished using 0000steel wool and then a polishing compound. They also may be burnished by utilizing a buffing wheel. For those companies that have a vibratory polisher the coated piston may be polished in the machine for about 5 minutes. A piston that has been coated with TLML on the skirts may also be put in the machine when polishing the top coating. When polishing the combustion chambers or ports on a head using a Dremel tool or a die grinder with a polishing tip, will speed things up.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Cermakrome requires a burnishing to create the seal that provides the corrosion protection. This seal may be accomplished by either glass beading the coating or by placing the part in a vibratory polisher. The most popular finish is achieved with the vibrator. Depending on the shape of the part a 20minute period in the polisher creates a very bright, high polished effect. At this time the only known media that will create the bright finish is Microbright, a ceramic bead. No other polishing or burnishing media has worked. TECH LINE has arranged with several suppliers of equipment, media and polishing compound to supply TECH LINE customers at a discounted price. It is always worthwhile checking with used equipment dealers for a TUB type vibratory polisher. For more information ask for the data sheet on vibratory polishers. [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]CALL OUR TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE DEPARTMENT FOR MORE DETAILED INFORMATION[/FONT]
[/FONT]
i think i'm going with the "extreme sterling" coating as it's suggested for low boost turbo applications. 
