Sticking Wheels

[aaklingler]

I put a set of alum. wheels off of a '05 van on my '93 truck and there sticking. I beat 3 of them off but I can't get the 4th. Any ideas on how to get it off and how to keep them from sticking again???
Thanks, Allen

 

[pwrdbyidi]

I believe the bolt pattern changed to metric with the switch to the "Super Duty" trucks in 1999. I don't think the two are interchangeable and is probably why the wheels are getting stuck. Only pre-97 rims will work for our trucks.

 

[adrianspeeder]

Maybe the vans didn't switch to the 8x170mm?

Adrianspeeder

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

I've used the permatex anti-seize compound on the drum facing for the dually spacer shims and the rims. Works like a charm.

Not sure bout the bolt patterns tho.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

The vans have not been redesigned since 1992, they still use the inch pattern!!! Van and pickup design and production have always been seperate and very few parts are shared.

A little antiseize or grease will cut down on the galvanic corrosion.

Loosen the lugnuts a little and move the truck around in the driveway - the wheel will come loose.

 

[pwrdbyidi]

Sorry for the misinformation.

 

[aaklingler]

I guess I'll try loosening the lugs and driving around the driveway unless somebody has something better. Then I'll put antiseize on it. It says on the PB Blaster can to spray the wheel, has anybody tried that?

 

[subway]

I guess I'll try loosening the lugs and driving around the driveway unless somebody has something better. Then I'll put antiseize on it. It says on the PB Blaster can to spray the wheel, has anybody tried that?

pb blaster is more of a light lubricant penatraiting oil and tends to dry, at least when i spray down my tools......

you should not have that problem at all with antiseize

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I HATE ALUMINUM WHEELS

This is something we have to contend with on a daily basis at the tire shop.

Aluminum is by far the worst, but some steel wheels fit on there pretty snug.

It is a chore to lay underneath and the hell out of a stuck wheel, while trying not to warp/bust said wheel.

The ones that actually care enough to coat both surfaces with anti-seize seem to never stick.

With aluminum, it is not only the tight fit, but the galvanic corrosion that welds the wheel to the hub.

The drive around with loose nuts trick will work on steel wheels, but sometimes will bust the center out of aluminum.

 

[oldmisterbill]

I had several 4x4's plowing snow and had 1 set of alloy wheels but also had the problem many times mentioned on this forum. The spindle on the front axle rusting into the knuckle.At work we used a product "Dow corning 111"High temp valve sealent..It looks like vasoline-very thick-silicone,much like diaelectric silicone.I have used it in place of dialectric silicone. It can be bought at industrial supply and some bearing houses,it comes in a green tube. It is water proof,non conductive ,yet a lubricant.Antiseize has metallic particles ,which in my mind(however weak it may be) adds to galvanic action.I have used it very succesfully in place of neverseize in lower temp applications (not on exhaust parts)in tail lights on a boat trailer used in the ocean,Spring shackles,front end parts,lug nuts,the tob adjustment parts of 4xs4 ball joints,electrical connections,alloy wheels. Your imagination will offer many more applications.
On my outdrive (salt water boat)where I had steel into alloy castings(stainless steel also would cause problems there).OMC had white lithium grease reccomended in some of these applications. The silicone in my estimation was far better as a antiseize compound-electrical waterproofer.I keep a tube in my truck and a couple in the shop.Put in on the end of a bolt sticking out of a nut in a corrosive enviorment.Try it let me know what you think. It is limited only by your imagination. Mr Bill

OH yes it is also a wonderful o-ring lubricant. I just can't begin to tell oyu how many places it can be used with above average success.

More info
Dow-Corning© #111
#111 Silicone lubricant is a synthetic, odorless, tasteless, tenacious and waterproof.

Operating Temperature Range: -70 F to +400 F

Product is approved by FDA Regulation 21 CFR 175.300 and NSF Standard 61 and complies with those standards.

Applications: Lubricating plug valves, pump packings, sanitary valves, gate valves, butterfly valves, automated valves, rubber and plastic o-rings. Perfect for sealing vacuum and pressure systems (especially outdoor equipment subjected to washing and harsh environments) and damping medium (removable potting compound) in dash pots for electrical equipment.

 

[whitestroker]

I ground out the center just a bit. Been no probs since 98

 

[aaklingler]

The silicone sounds interesting I may have to get some of that. I've also thought of grinding out the centers but I wasn't sure that was the problem.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

HUB-CENTRIC or LUG-CENTRIC ??



You want to be careful, grinding the inside of wheels.

Make sure that they are LUG-CENTRIC, before any grinding is done.

If they are HUB-CENTRIC, grinding the hole can lead to the wheel slipping around on the hub, eventually wearing the studs to the point of breaking.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

You want to be careful, grinding the inside of wheels.

Make sure that they are LUG-CENTRIC, before any grinding is done.

If they are HUB-CENTRIC, grinding the hole can lead to the wheel slipping around on the hub, eventually wearing the studs to the point of breaking.

The OBS single wheel trucks all used cone lug nuts (lug centric).

If the flat lugnuts on hub pilot wheels are torqued properly, they WILL NOT move. All the hub does is center the wheel.

My truck has mismatched axle and wheels (axle is from an older truck that used cone lugnuts). The wheel centers are much larger than the hub. I just center the wheels, tighten the lugnuts and there it stays until I take them off again. 8 bolts at 140 ft/lb is a lot of clamping force.

Yea, I know it isn't right. I have an 87 traction-lock rear end going into it as soon as it gets warm out.

 

[gabbyr100rs]

I have been running aluminum alloys since my truck was new. A light coat of copper or moly anti-sieze on the face of the wheel and the hub works. Might use a wire brush on both surfaces to clean them up prior to applying the anti-seize.

Have removed stuck wheels using a piece of 2X4 and a BFH. Wood against the inside edge of the wheel. Use care, don't want to break the wheel.