Run WMO 7.3 PSD ?

Discussion in 'BioDiesel & Alternative Fuels' started by m67tang, Nov 13, 2017.

  1. m67tang

    m67tang Full Access Member

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    so,
    New to me 1997 f250. Would like to run wmo again as I did with my 1991 IDI. Not sure if it’s ok or a bad idea? Sure someone here has done it, and has the shirt to prove it. Please tell me how it went. And did you use a coolant fuel heater. Or what else?
     
  2. 79jasper

    79jasper Chickenhawk

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    As long as you filter it enough.
    But for the price of injectors......... lol

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  3. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    You can do it but just remember that these injectors are not as forgiving as the IDIs. And not as easy to get to... or pay for....
     
  4. m67tang

    m67tang Full Access Member

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    That’s about my current thoughts too, injector cost and the like.
     
  5. leswhitt

    leswhitt Full Access Member

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    I did it for thousands and thousands and thousands of miles. Centrifuge for multiple passes, blend properly, and get a set of gauges to watch FP, and you'll be good to go. There were a ton of naysayers saying it couldn't be done but I'm proof that it can be.
     
  6. m67tang

    m67tang Full Access Member

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    I need to ask- what’s FP mean?
     
  7. leswhitt

    leswhitt Full Access Member

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    Sorry, Fuel Pressure. By running a FP gauge you'll be able to tell when your mix is flowing right and ensure that you aren't starving the injectors.
     
  8. paramax55

    paramax55 Full Access Member

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    It can work. Been there, done that. But you have to ask yourself if it is worth it. I never had damage, but there was a LOT of work to be done - and not just on making the fuel. I have the single-squirt injectors and that may be part of my troubles. I mixed with RUG, heated, and ran through two centrifuges. I removed a TON of sludge and made VERY clean fuel. The trouble was the carbon. Any color in the fuel is carbon and carbon does not burn. The trouble is that it looks for some place to stick to. It will stick to the glow plugs and the injector tips and whatever else is in there. The glow plugs are no big deal - it just makes them difficult to remove - but the injector tips will screw with the spray pattern and you will start to look like a mosquito fogger.

    For me, it would take about 300 miles. Then I'd pull the injectors, clean them, change the timing, and go again. I kept 2 sets of injectors and I got to where I could swap them out in about 3 1/2 hours. I probably cleaned the injectors 100 times and went through about 300 timing changes. I even bought a tune but, alas, couldn't keep the coking problem away.

    If anyone knows, for sure, that the double-tap injectors make a difference, I'd be interested in knowing.
     
  9. leswhitt

    leswhitt Full Access Member

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    How many passes did you make on the centrifuges?
     
  10. spg

    spg Big Red

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    I have been running a 5 to 20 % mix of motor oil, Transmission fluid and the likes for over 12 years. Like leswhitt said filter before hand. I also have a Baldwin BF7587 Fuel filter inline on the Inlet fuel line from the tank to filter everything Before it gets to the fuel system.
     
  11. paramax55

    paramax55 Full Access Member

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    I did one pass and, if I remember correctly, I ran at a speed of 5 gallons/hour. To confirm my speed was good, I did some double-pass stuff at first. The second pass didn't really pull anything out. I started up and shut down on diesel but, of course, there was cross-contamination and there was oil in the diesel tank.

    I was able to confirm with a microscope that I was making a difference in cleaning the oil. I was also able to confirm with a desktop centrifuge that more cleaning was possible. You just can't recreate desktop centrifuge results using a flow-through centrifuge. In the end, when I quit with the WMO, and I just had tan-tinted diesel, I still ended up with some injector coking.
     
  12. leswhitt

    leswhitt Full Access Member

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    I think that may have been the difference, I centrifuge mine for ~30 passes. Reading through some of my old posts, my injectors were inspected after 13K miles of WMO and didn't have any carbon deposits.

    I think the difference maker in the WMO has less to do with the carbon and more how much grease you can pull out. Once I finished pulling out the grease at a considerable amount, my smoke/haze/idling issues became less and less.
     
  13. paramax55

    paramax55 Full Access Member

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    Do you have the single-squirt injectors or the double-squirt injectors? And you say 30 passes... do you have 30 true passes or are you just recirculating? And what is your dwell time vs how many Gs? It would be great to come up with a true working formula.
     
  14. leswhitt

    leswhitt Full Access Member

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    I think I have the single squirts, they're an aftermarket set from Full Force diesel if that helps.

    My setup is a 275 gallon tote with a platform on top with the fuge centered over the fill hole. In addition to the platform, I drilled a hole on the top left corner and have a pickup tube running down to 1/2" off the bottom. There's a hose connecting the tube to the centrifuge so that oil get's sucked off the bottom of the tote, run through the centrifuge, and dropped back on top. My centrifuge is 108gph so when my tote has ~ 250 gallons in it, I'll run it for at least 72 hours and usually longer.

    As for the working formula, I like to keep my WMO right around 83% oil and 17% gas, and then dump in any spare home heating oil or kerosene on hand. Mix that 50/50 w/diesel in the summer and 75/25 in the winter, and that'll run nearly smoke free in all of my vehicles.
     
  15. 79jasper

    79jasper Chickenhawk

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    Jezzlous dude.
    Single shot.
    Split shot.
    And how are you thinking you were changing the timing?

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