REPLACEMENT EGT PROBE

[Spun4Fun]

My EGT Probe likes to work when it feels like it . So i thought of replacement , I have BANKS EGT probe do i have to stick with that choice or can i switch to something else ..I came across this product

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_22&products_id=69


Or there any other probes that i can use

 

[OLDBULL8]

That will work. It's a K type thermocouple. The only problem you might have is that the leads are 78" long. The Banks leads usually are just 72", but I don't think the extra 6" will cause a guage mismatch. Check the length of yours. If your probe has the wire spade connections close to the probe, a loose connection there will cause erratic gauge indication.

Mine is doing the same thing, just haven't got to it yet.

 

[icanfixall]

I feel its as Bill posted above. Banks used the "K" thermocouple with the 1/8th inch pipe thread fitting in the manifold. Do not cut the length of the wire leads. That will change the readings you get on the gauge. Now being a few inches longer that what you now might have is not going to be an issue as far as I see it. The length of the cable needs to stay the same for the probe.

 

[Spun4Fun]

actually about a month ago i done few tests after talking to Banks tech support and provided them with the result which all passed with flying colors .

I done OHM test to the gauge and it passed as the needle swept full scale end -end

I have full continuity on the cable it self tip to tip ( red and Yellow ) And Ohms test resulted for each lead tip to tip ( yellow & Black ) is .3 ohms yellow & 1.2 ohms on the Red or something like that . I also have good resistance test at the probe leads no short or open .. I made sure all connection is good . I put it all back together and it worked good for as little as i drive the truck

Last night it did not the needle setting at 200f

 

[laserjock]

The way these work is that you have wires made of two different materials. At the junction of the materials you get a voltage generated (junction potential). Type K is a chromium-iron alloy and an alumninum alloy I think. That junction potential changes with temperature. This is why you can test the thermcouple with an ohm meter. Essentially if the junction is in tact, the thermocouple part is okay. That's not to say that the other parts are okay.

Changing the length of the wires a few inches or even a few feet will make no difference in the readings on the scale of your gauge. What you don't want to do is insert copper or another type of wire because that will cause a calibration error. One thing to pay attention to with a type K thermocouple is that the red wire is actually the negative wire when you hook it up. Yellow is the positive.

Loose connections are bad for thermocouples reading correctly. If you can get to the connections, pull it apart and clean them good.

 

[OLDBULL8]

One thing to pay attention to with a type K thermocouple is that the red wire is actually the negative wire when you hook it up. Yellow is the positive.

Hate that, that the positive is not Red. Just got 2 thermocouples from Hong Kong and the leads are Red and Blue. Probe is 5" with 8 Ft leads for $7.50 ea free ship. Really nice thermocouple's, leads are shielded with woven SS, nice 3" spring at the probe.

 

[Robt.Webster]

Red and blue leads are indicative that this is tyoe T thermocouple or copper-constantan, not a K type thermocouple,which is nickle-chromium. There is an international standard for the color code on thermocouple leads that most manufacturers follow. A type T thermcouple will not work in place of a type K.

 

[laserjock]

Red and blue leads are indicative that this is tyoe T thermocouple or copper-constantan, not a K type thermocouple,which is nickle-chromium. There is an international standard for the color code on thermocouple leads that most manufacturers follow. A type T thermcouple will not work in place of a type K.

^^^ What he said.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Yeah, my boo boo,failed to mention that it is a type T thermocouple that I'm going to use on an experment. I was thinking about the construction of it, compared to some of them that have the short leads that have the spade connectors like I have in my truck EGT gauge.

If your probe has the wire spade connections close to the probe, a loose connection there will cause erratic gauge indication.

Sorry if I mislead anyone. Quote above is what I was thinking about, whereas the ones I got are without connections at the probe.

 

[laserjock]

Those are very nice looking. Omega Engineering has most different flavors just for reference. If you want to learn about temp measurement and equipment, write to them and they will typically send you a set of measurement handbooks for nothing. I have a complete set in my office that I rely on quite a bit for process control and measurement stuff.

 

[Spun4Fun]

Done another ohm test on the probe it self .8 ohm , Connected the meter to the back of the gauge and i have full needle sweep . Cleaned all the connection with wire brush and put it all back together but ran out of time to test drive it .

My understanding if you have a bad probe you will get the same result of a test AS IF YOU TESTING A GP ( short or Open ) same thing if the gauge is bad you get no needle sweep ..

 

[laserjock]

Pretty much. If it's open, its bad for sure. Like I said above, if its closed, there's not much that can be wrong with it. The caveat is if you have it shorted somewhere other than at the tip of the probe essentially what that would do is read the temp where the short is. So if your gauge is jumping around, that is a remote possibility if you have a bare spot on a wire some place.

 

[Spun4Fun]

The only spot i could see bare on the wires tip ( Yellow & red ) where it was crimped to the connector unless the black cable going to the cabin is shaved some where up stream

 

[OLDBULL8]

laserjock
Thanks for the referrence.
I had to make thermocouples 58 yrs. ago, as an electrician at Ford Engine Plant to control the CO Generators and Heat treat furnaces. I learned real fast how to use a millivote generator and make the pyros. Almost had a melt down on a CO generator, it was up to ~2400*F, melt down was at ~2700*F. The furnace operator was the one that was supposed to know how and do that, he didn't. Those were the days when rocker arms and shafts were used.

Edit:Just printed out there sheet on the different types pyro wire size and temp range. Don't really need the manuals.

 

[fsmyth]

I use these guys:
http://thesensorconnection.com/category/egt-probes/all-egt-probes/diesel
and got some of these china cheapies to play with:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2M-EGT-K-Ty...192?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cee5649f0

Both work the same. I have some with 60", 72", 96", and 48" leads. All work the same.
Some have crimp connectors, some don't. as long as the connectors are crimped well,
and are located at the gauge/meter, all is well.

I use the digital meters from the first link, and they can be set to use K, T, or J types.

Here is a link if you want to know more about how they work:
http://www.thermoworks.com/learning/

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