Quick Alternator Question 1988 7.3

[HammerDown]

What parts store do / did you buy from?
I've had TERRIBLE luck with NAPA alts.

Thank you.

This was from Pep Boys but so was the alt that lasted some 18 years. I believe A1 Cardone use to do all the rebuilding at one time.

 

[HammerDown]

In my experience generic starters and alternators from any parts store is a roll of the dice. The best thing is finding a good local shop that rebuilds them.


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The best local starter/alt shop went out of business. Last time I used them was maybe 8 years ago for the OE 1983 alt on my race bot... that thing looked so good I just stared at it for several days.

 

[HammerDown]

Just before changing to 3g, mine was doing the same thing and it was the grey plastic plug that pressed into the alt. When the light flickered, if I opened the hood and had someone watch the light while I pressed on the plastic plug, the light would go out. Rather than fix the wiring plug, I swapped to 3g and glad that I did. It's an easy swap.

Could be the plug, I put some doelectric grease on the plug to help with contact... even though the "batter light" doesn't come on all the time, I'll check the plug.

 

[HammerDown]

Sounds like your brushes are worn out.


Either my local O'Rielley's or Napa can still order the Motorcraft external regulator. (Can't recall. Usually have it later in the day or next day.)


Also Powermaster makes some great rebuilt heavy duty alternators. They are pricey, but if you are going for longevity I would take a look at them. Popular in the Jeep community for taking a beating, getting dusty, and high loads.(Winch, lights, etc.) You may have to put your double pulley on it to use it. They tend to sell most alternators, just not with all options. (Back plate at 3 o'clock instead of 12' o'clock. Double pully VS single pully.) The alternator is the same, just not set up the same or with the same pully. But this all can be done by the buyer.


http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/


If doing the Alternator adding a $30-40 regulator just makes sense. If nothing else cheep insurance that both will go the distance again. Some auto parts stores can still test these external regulators to confirm good or bad, but I would recommend just replace with a new Motorcraft one.


Ditto to rebuilt auto parts store alternators are hit or miss. O'Rielly only had their cheaper chicken house brand for my sons 67 Galaxie. First one had a bent fan and was out of round. Second one had a loose pulley. Third one the fan spun when you held the pulley. We said heck with this junk and went to our local independent auto parts store. Theirs at least did not have any visible issues. We will see how it holds up. What happened to pride of work and quality control????


We had a great alt/starter rebuilder locally until recently. He did marine and automotive applications. I believe he closed down due to a rental increase and decided to retire. (Had already moved once a couple years earlier.) Went to the other guy, was not super impressed with his shop or work. So I will have to find another good rebuilder.


We also lost a great trailer repair shop, developer bought the property, owner could not find another property around for close to the same rent. He went to work for another trailer shop a few cities over. We ended up loosing a key small business withe tons of knowledge for apartments or town homes adding to the cities already heavy traffic!

-running.89858/

With all that (thanks) I can say when I 'clocked' the replacement Alt I got to see the brushes and they were new and fat. That however doesn't mean a failing diode etc. can't be going on.

 

[TNBrett]

Local shop is terrible ... I guess I should learn how to do it myself.

That’s not a bad idea. The biggest things the shops have that you or I don’t is the specific knowledge and access to the correct parts. The internet closes the gap on both of those.


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[Big Bart]

An issue on newer Ford alternators found on the 4.6 and 5.4 engines (Guessing same one is on others.) is the brushes are either so hard or are pushing in so much they are eating up the rotor shaft as they wear. (The brushes are supposed to be the wear item, not the shaft.). So now rebuilders have to sleeve it or replace it. So gone are the days of rebuilders using the same alternator half a dozen times with minimal parts (Brushes and bearings) to rebuild. Thus likely the price of rebuilds will not come down a whole lot over time.