Pulled Rad. Got access

Clb

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93 7.3 sub 60k but all stock.
What to check while its out?
 

IDIBRONCO

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Just for S's and G's, you may want to remove the grounds from the block and clean them and the block. They may not be bad, but there could also be almost 30 years of build up between the two.
 

Clb

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Goodfookinggawd
The old school radiator shop wants at $1300 stock, $2400 to do a high efficiency(dimple core) 4 row recore...Larger tubes WHOOPIE
Anything current and proven for a replacement?
 

TNBrett

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My truck has a parts store aluminum radiator with the plastic tanks, just like 98% of the cars and trucks on the road today. It was in the truck when I bought it. It’s done fine for me. No over heating with plenty of towing and AC use. I think they run about $300. Lots of folks seem skeptical of them though.
 

Clb

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I put 3 of them in my v30 in a year and a half, around 20 yrs ago...last one I put an all copper \brass one in still solid today
But thanks for the input bud.
 
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Shadetreemechanic

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Your core is bad I guess. Any chance you could find another factory one with a good core?
I have an aluminum/ plastic one in my 94. I took the factory radiator out of my 94 and had it rodded and rebuilt and run it in my 87 that didn't have a salvagable core. The factory radiator does better cooling hands down. When cutting hay I routinely tow the same loads on the same day with different trucks so its easy to see.
 

Clb

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Well once upon a time in Radio Free America, we usta just boil em out with caustic soda or something....
they cannot do it no more.
i got the excuse that ford used some kind of high temp solder on these and the core would not survive rodding out???
sounds like salesmen speak to me.
but they are the only shop nearby so, I'm gunna get me so me sodium hydroxide and have at it.
The core has some off white minerals on it inside.
Fingers crossed.
The tin rad search is showing mitsuwhaever @$450+
Still trying to get thru to dubs, aint found champions # yet.
Gawd help me living in the land of tree hugging chimerica:frustrate
 

TNBrett

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I put 3 of them in my v30 in a year and a half, around 20 yrs ago...last one I put an all copper \brass one in still solid today
But thanks for the input bud.
Well, 20 years ago it didn’t cost $1350 for a recore either.
I’ve never had a champion radiator in an IDI before, but I’ve had bad luck with welded aluminum radiators in other applications. They seem prone to cracking with vibration. That’s why it wouldn’t be my first choice of style. Obviously the original brass and copper radiators were nice and stout, but that ship has sailed, as far as I know, no new ones are available.
As I see it your choices are:
1) find a good used original and hope it lasts
2) recore yours for big $$$ - you’ve already said you don’t want to do that.
3) a new all aluminum radiator
4) a new aluminum and plastic radiator

To each their own. I hope whatever you do works out well for you.
 

Clb

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Yes indeed the entire world is turning into a lieing sack of something.....
Recoring stock for $1350 when a new dubs delivered is $1395 seems high!
And a recore for $2355 with a dimple core is just ridiculous, cheap mishimoto del. For $488..
Heading to rocauto and see how cheap the materials are on the brass\copper offering...
Edit you can't sell what is Not in stock!
only have the 15" unit. ..
just ordered some sodium hydroxide
 
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Cubey

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My truck has a parts store aluminum radiator with the plastic tanks, just like 98% of the cars and trucks on the road today. It was in the truck when I bought it. It’s done fine for me. No over heating with plenty of towing and AC use. I think they run about $300. Lots of folks seem skeptical of them though.

The pre-92 IDI van 2 row radiator is $556 from AutoZone (cheaper than O'Reilly). Thankfully mine is still doing fine, aside from a very minor leak. The F-series one is $310 from AutoZone but the mounting points on the side brackets are different between trucks and vans.
 

SirRea63l

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Goodfookinggawd
The old school radiator shop wants at $1300 stock, $2400 to do a high efficiency(dimple core) 4 row recore...Larger tubes WHOOPIE
Anything current and proven for a replacement?
I have been using a Champion 3 row all aluminum since 2017 with zero issues. I do not work this truck hard or use it extensively but it gets (stays) over 100 degrees here in the Summer and my temps stay steady. I also replaced the stock water pump with a Flowkooler at the same time which may have helped as well.
 

Oledirtypearl86

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Well once upon a time in Radio Free America, we usta just boil em out with caustic soda or something....
they cannot do it no more.
i got the excuse that ford used some kind of high temp solder on these and the core would not survive rodding out???
sounds like salesmen speak to me.
but they are the only shop nearby so, I'm gunna get me so me sodium hydroxide and have at it.
The core has some off white minerals on it inside.
Fingers crossed.
The tin rad search is showing mitsuwhaever @$450+
Still trying to get thru to dubs, aint found champions # yet.
Gawd help me living in the land of tree hugging chimerica:frustrate
Uhhhhhhhhh I had one for a customer done 3 weeks ago cost $125 and took 2 days and they fixed a small pin hole leak that showed up after the cleaning also showed me all the crap they boiled out there are shops out there that still do it hell its still standard practice for large equipment and trucks sounds like they want a core for scrap for the managment beer fund
 

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