Possible bad U Joint?

themechanicalford

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Hey guys I'm thinking I've got a bad U Joint on my front drive shaft but I'm not sure. Here is a video of the noise it makes. It only makes the noise in the front when 4wd is engaged. It's a much slower clink clink clink at low speeds but that video didn't record.

If it is the joint are there any tips or tricks I should know for our trucks in particular?

https://imgur.com/a/IXTQPl0
 

Cubey

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Check your driveshaft carrier bearing. My F250's went bad in 2017:

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themechanicalford

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Check your driveshaft carrier bearing. My F250's went bad in 2017:

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that sounds dead on. How much additional damage am I doing by running less than 30mph with the 4wd engaged here in the snow until I get it fixed?
 

Cubey

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that sounds dead on. How much additional damage am I doing by running less than 30mph with the 4wd engaged here in the snow until I get it fixed?

I would fix it ASAP and only drive it as far as it takes to get to a shop. I saw mine in the condition you see in the video but decided to try to get on to the next city about 65 miles down the road. By the time I got there, the tapping sound when I started out was a LOUD BANGING sound. (think bowling ball in a dryer)

I could somewhat control the banging by adjusting the throttle to smooth it out but it was not a good thing. I was able to limp it to a motel and call around to find a shop who could work on it the next morning. I stopped at a (semi) truck parts shop along the way to ask if they could recommend shops very close by and they suggested the one I ended up using. I limped it to the shop in the morning instead of messing with roadside, since it was only a 2.7 miles on a 2 lane city street with a 30mph limit.

The shop said they would have to see if I might need a new driveshaft, if it spun the bearing. But thankfully it didn't damage the driveshaft or anything else, so it just needed the carrier bearing.

It requires a shop press and other special equipment, so it's probably best to have a shop do it, unless you are comfortable getting that deep into repairs. I was out on the road and had so such equipment. It cost me about $300, as I recall. They had it done within about 3 hours.
 

themechanicalford

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I would fix it ASAP and only drive it as far as it takes to get to a shop. I saw mine in the condition you see in the video but decided to try to get on to the next city about 65 miles down the road. By the time I got there, the tapping sound when I started out was a LOUD BANGING sound. (think bowling ball in a dryer)

I could somewhat control the banging by adjusting the throttle to smooth it out but it was not a good thing. I was able to limp it to a motel and call around to find a shop who could work on it the next morning. I stopped at a (semi) truck parts shop along the way to ask if they could recommend shops very close by and they suggested the one I ended up using. I limped it to the shop in the morning instead of messing with roadside, since it was only a 2.7 miles on a 2 lane city street with a 30mph limit.

The shop said they would have to see if I might need a new driveshaft, if it spun the bearing. But thankfully it didn't damage the driveshaft or anything else, so it just needed the carrier bearing.

It requires a shop press and other special equipment, so it's probably best to have a shop do it, unless you are comfortable getting that deep into repairs. I was out on the road and had so such equipment. It cost me about $300, as I recall. They had it done within about 3 hours.

okay luckily mine is the front and so only knocks when I have it in 4wd and am going 10 or less usually under the circumstances. I'll YouTube it to see if I have the necessary tools and if not I'll get the tools I need.
 
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Cubey

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okay luckily mine is there from and so only knocks when I have it in 4wd and am going 10 or less usually under the circumstances. I'll YouTube it to see if I have the necessary tools and if not I'll get the tools I need.

Well mine went from no noise one day, to light noise in the next morning, to banging like mad by afternoon.

That same day, the RH door glass mysteriously busted when driving at ~55mph. That's why it took until afternoon to go 65 miles. I had to turn around and go back to town (I was about a mile out of town) get a used window. Thankfully the junk yard there there had one from a 94 OBS Ford that fit. A glass shop helped me get the wing window put back in and didn't charge me anything for that bit of help, since I did most of the installation myself. They were too busy with other jobs to dedicate time to mine.

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Randy Bush

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It would be best to block the wheels ,put things in neutral and crawl under the truck and see if one of the joints is loose. If it is the front shaft ,just leave your hubs locked out and have the transfer case in 2 wheel and you wil not have any issues until you can get it fixed.
 

themechanicalford

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It would be best to block the wheels ,put things in neutral and crawl under the truck and see if one of the joints is loose. If it is the front shaft ,just leave your hubs locked out and have the transfer case in 2 wheel and you wil not have any issues until you can get it fixed.

Thanks! Do you mean leave my hubs "unlocked" I guess?
 

IDIBRONCO

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Here's a trick that I use for removing and installing front drive shafts. I'll position the u-joints so that I can get to the nuts on one side and then I'll lock the hubs. Then I'll loosen all of the nuts on that side of the drive shaft. Next, reach out and unlock the driver's side hub and you can spin the drive shaft around to get to the other nuts. Once they are all loose, you can remove them. Unlock the driver's side hub again so you can spin the drive shaft freely. Use this trick to tighten the nuts again. Leave the transfer case in neutral so you can spin the drive shaft freely when a hub is unlocked. Naturally, you will have to unlock both hubs if you have a front locker. This is so much easier than trying to hold the drive shaft by putting something through the yoke.
 

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