P9106 needs a new clutch.

Greg5OH

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Well, i have notced past few days the slippage is getting worse. even in 2nd gear full boost it starts slipping away and can really reel it in 3rd when boost goes over 20 lbs.
This was a LuK SMF kit, which I did smoke the clutch really bad last summer attempting a sled pull.

Either way its time to replace it. Hoping to get away with just the friction disc but well see upon removal what is really necessary. Truck is probably close to 300 whp. Just street use but will see 8-10k lb towing a few times a year.

I see on roack auto there is an M Pact oragnic steel back clutch which states it is for ownrs towing slightly above rated weight. MPact also makes a ceramic friction disc which is rated for 100-200 horse over stock. Never driven a truck with a ceramic disc-any comments?

I know ceramic can handle more heat and overall has a higher CoF, but thats about it.
 

jwalterus

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IIRC, someone tried a ceramic years ago, couldn't slip it, the more he tried the harder it grabbed
 

Greg5OH

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Thx for the input.
I called Fort Wayne clutch he recommended a dual face, kevlar on the pressure plate side and ceramic on the flywheel side that was about $450 fir the kit. Too pricey for my babk right now
 

Greg5OH

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heres some ebay ones I found,

carbon kevlar-http://www.ebay.com/itm/FX-HD-STAGE-2-CLUTCH-KIT-88-94-FORD-F-SUPER-DUTY-F250-F350-F59-6-9L-7-3L-DIESEL-/401080372178?fits=Year%3A1991|Model%3AF-350&hash=item5d6240cbd2:g:WP0AAOSwQYZW1OWW&vxp=mtr

or the copper ceramic one http://www.ebay.com/itm/FX-HD-STAGE...ash=item25b78b9acf:g:SMcAAOSwG-1W1ODK&vxp=mtr

however rockauto is about 80$ cheaper for the ceramic one.

Leaning towards the carbon kevlar one (I assume it is organic (carbon) along with kevlar mixed into the lining?

Ideally Id like to replace just the friction dic but am assuming the PP may be wiped as well.
 

laserjock

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I hope your assertion about the smoking the disk is correct. I've got a luk kit to go in my truck and I too should be in that 300 whp range. I don't want to be smoking the clutch with a camper in tow. I suppose it is possible that pressure plate is weak. :dunno
 

IDIoit

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you get what you pay for.
last year i bought my south bend.
ive pulled boats out of the water with the rear tires on fire,.
clutch dropped like i was at the christmas tree,
and simply gave it hell.
never noticed even the tiniest slip.
but **** was expensive.
 

Greg5OH

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^they are very expensive indeed, and I doubt I need something so high torque/hp rated. I just need to stay away from sled pulls, as anyhtign but a double will just get destroyed from slipping the start.

I am certain smoking it at the sled pulls killed it for the most part-I mean the cloud of smoke from under the truck was as big as the diesel clouds ouf of guys hood stacks. it slipped bad the following day, then was ok for a while then every so often seemed to slip a bit but yesterday seemed to be its final straw. Im assuming it just glazed over.

THe ceramic/ceramic is probably a bad idea, it is cheap but will be either on or off. hell on the drivetrain. Too bad there is no cheap kevlar/ceramic option.
 

79jasper

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When you day "double" are you meaning dual disc?
I heard those grab like a sumbitsh.
You wouldn't be able to sled pull. Suck for DD also.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

Greg5OH

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Dual disc yes-the only way to sled pull. They are actually veary easy on the street especialy if they are organic/kevlar. Ceramics grab hard no matter what, somtered iron is awesome great heat capacity can slip but is rougher on the flywheel.
But. No dual discs for me-thats biggg money. Rather change the clutch every year than shell out 1500 for one..
And no more sled pulling for me either, that is a seperate expensive hobby to get into.
 

79jasper

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Ah, i getcha. Makes sense.
Maybe things have changed since the last time I looked into them for my psd. What I had read was they don't like being slipped at all.
I'll have to look again.

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riotwarrior

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Had a ceramic years ago..2 ton...***** to slip but could be done...held anything and everything thrown at it
 

Greg5OH

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^I could get just the disc for 75 bucks from rock auto. Its not too big a job to change the clutch with the 2 post and trans jack. exhaust is all on on V bands and just pop the jack shaft out from between the ZF and NP205.
actually...now that I think about it..Last time I put the entire drivline in, then set the body on...Never took trans off with body still on....Hope I have enough room with my setup!
 

riotwarrior

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^I could get just the disc for 75 bucks from rock auto. Its not too big a job to change the clutch with the 2 post and trans jack. exhaust is all on on V bands and just pop the jack shaft out from between the ZF and NP205.
actually...now that I think about it..Last time I put the entire drivline in, then set the body on...Never took trans off with body still on....Hope I have enough room with my setup!

75 bucks n labour....roll the dice....if u like it run it if not can save up for whole enchilada and replace with fancy schmancy kevlar / ceramic setup...later

Just sayin
 

Greg5OH

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going with tis clutch. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6752512&cc=1126606&jsn=232
the disc alone is 110, no brainer to get the PP for another 40$..

hoping I dont have to resurface the flywheel, it hasnt been slipping hard or very much. well see when I take it off.

edit: $40 to machine it...getting it done. will replace my rear main with an oem navistar one as well. it is the one last thing that was leaking on the truck, and shell be perfect after this!
 
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Fision

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I see on roack auto there is an M Pact oragnic steel back clutch which states it is for ownrs towing slightly above rated weight. MPact also makes a ceramic friction disc which is rated for 100-200 horse over stock. Never driven a truck with a ceramic disc-any comments?
Anybody have experience with these M-pact ceramic clutches? What is the reputation of M-pact or the other brands of clutches on Rock Auto? SB is too pricey for what I need. I am hoping my build makes 300 bhp. I occasionally tow 8-15k.
 

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