Oil Pressure Question

[fx4wannabe]

Yea I don't plan to run it till I figure this out. I have the gauge running to isolator then to the turbo so I don't get oil in the cab. I and gonna stick the gauge out on the hood with a short piece of hose to trouble shoot that and if I still get the same readings I will try a new gauge. It's possible that it got some air in the line I guess. Like I said I usually see 40 psi cold and then in runs at 10 psi both idle and running. I'll trouble shoot the gauge before the oil cooler and post up what I find.

 

[PwrSmoke]

I have the gauge running to isolator then to the turbo so I don't get oil in the cab.

Please explain what you mean by "isolator."

 

[79jasper]

I personally feel they're useless, as I've never had a gauge leak.
But it goes between the oil pressure source line and gauge. Think there's a spring tensioned piston inside that keeps the two from mixing. Think I've heard people use coolant in the line between the gauge and isolator.
Very well possible for the isolator to be causing your low readings.

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[fx4wannabe]

The isolator I have uses a diaphragm but same idea. I had it on dodge for the fuel pressure gauge and when I got rid of it I moved it over to this truck. Probably not as important on this truck but if you are running a high flow fuel pump to a gauge in the cab and that line breaks, you will have a cab full of diesel before you realize what is happening.

 

[DaytonaBill]

I had that happen with a mechanical oil pressure gauge, that oil was HOT!

 

[79jasper]

Did you bleed the oil line?

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[fx4wannabe]

I bled it all when I first installed it but the truck has been sitting for 2 years so it could have some air in it. Gonna play with it on Sunday.

 

[fx4wannabe]

Finally got to mess with the gauge today and it was the gauge that was bad. I hooked one up straight with about 24" of line and set it out on the hood. 40 psi cold, 15 psi at idle once warm and 35 psi cruising. So now I know I need to redo my gauge install in the truck. I am really leery of having oil in the cab even though I know people do it. Is there a better way than using the wimpy little nylon line that comes with most gauges? I really don't trust it.

 

[chris142]

I have the plastic line from the engine to about the firewall. IMO we need plastic there any way because of the vibration. I have a connector here and then copper line into the cab and gage. I tried all copper line and it took every noise in my engine into the gage. Very annoying!

 

[typ4]

I plumb in the gauge with stainles braided teflon. Only once, lasts forever. I have never had a properly installed plastic line fail, but I still dont use it, I used to use copper tubing, then IF it did fail you could at least kink it shut.

 

[DaytonaBill]

I plumb in the gauge with stainles braided teflon. Only once, lasts forever. I have never had a properly installed plastic line fail, but I still dont use it, I used to use copper tubing, then IF it did fail you could at least kink it shut.

Mine split right about 2 inches behind the gauge. The smallest bend I had in the entire line from engine to gauge was approximately a 6 inch radius.

It still sprayed me with HOT oil and it got all over the front part of the cab interior... It's a good thing my floor was rubber matted...

One reason it sprayed from a small crack (the crack ran with the plastic tube, not across) was that I had a high pressure oil pump (100 psi) and it was a 351 Cleveland (gasser). I do miss that engine, it ran like a scalded ape!

 

[dunk]

Is there a better way than using the wimpy little nylon line that comes with most gauges? I really don't trust it.

Electric gauges. I've always done mechanical in all my vehicles but I'll be doing electric when I get a full set of gauges for the IDI. Main reason being this is an air conditioning truck so I can't do my usual location on either side of the cluster, and I hate gauges down low below the dash for critical things like temp and oil pressure... or EGT and boost. So I'll be doing the ol' graft the OBS pillar onto a bullnose pillar and run them there. Longer and more bends/routing but the goal is to run as little tubing as possible in that area. Never leaks. Yeah senders are pricey if they fail, but I'm never had electric senders fail in any of my boats so I believe they're reasonably reliable. Plenty of vibration in a boat, along with moisture and other harsh conditions.

 

[sjwelds]

hate to hijack here, but how and where do u run the wires to get them up to the pillar? I have an obs truck and was gonna put the pyro/ boost gauge up on top of the dash in the left corner. could not figure out how to get the wiring up there! tried fishing a piece of welding wire down thru from the top and couldn't ever get it to where I could see the end of the wire. so finally I wimped out and mounted it below the dash. don't really like it tho...

 

[fx4wannabe]

I thought about doing electrical but already have the mechanical ones. I have a really nice set of diprocols I had in my dodge so I may buy a water temp and oil pressure to match.

 

[79jasper]

Easiest to pull the gauge cluster, kick panel, pillar trim, and lower dash trim. Then it's pretty easy to get in there and run wires.
I'm going with electric when I get gauges.

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