Oil Pressure Gage

[icanfixall]

Today I changed out my mechanical oil pressure gage for an electric EV Isspro gage. My pressure is still lower than I want so the motor will be coming out. I will be checking all the oil clearances and find out why the pressure is what it is. I noticed that the motor seems to be running quiter now. I think the mechanical gage was transmitting a noise up thru the 1/8 copper tubing that went to the gage. At least now I don't have live oil pressure on the dash. I never liked that but it ran that way for about 8 years without a leak. Warmed up the idle pressure is 13 lbs and the pressure is 35 lbs at 25 mph and around 1400 rpm.

 

[Diesel JD]

That's about what I've got. I'd think it would be higher on a brand new motor though. Paul at DAS told me they usually are happy if they can get 12-14psi at hot idle out of a 6.9/7.3.

 

[Russ]

I always been told that you want 10 PSI for every 1,000 RPMs So it doesn't look too low to me, but its your engine

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

I'm with Gruss on that one.
Those numbers don't look too bad.
Ya gotta consider the turbo is using a great deal of oil as well and that is really close to where my numbers are at.

Ya the copper line does transmit noise up thru into the cab. Some get used to it and others it drives em nuts.
Me.... I like the sound of the sewing machine on steroids and have always preferred the engine sounds over the radio.

 

[Greenbeast6.9]

i don't think i would pull the motor for that kind of pressure! i would just drive it for a while and see if it gets and worse. Dsl_Dog_Catcher is right, the turbo consumes some of your pressure to oil itself.

 

[ttman4]

Ican, I'm kinda with you, I like to see higher press, especially on a new rebuild. But I've also quit worring somewhat on mine for now. At some point later when I finish building my "other" engine I'd like to see more press.
Other day I saw where you was talking about "pulling the oilcooler to adj the regulator". You talking about the bypass valve? & how do you adj this/it?

Also, Ive wondered about any other oilpumps that are available for these engines. Like some other "hi volumn" aftermarket pumps that are available for some older gassers. (never understood why factory didn't just go ahead & put hi-volumn on in the first place if an upgrade was gonna be needed later down the road....save about $.07 cents each maybe?)
I've never cked, but I wonder if the gears in these 7.3 oilpump can be turned around because of wear like some older gassers i've seen?
However, in the big picture of an overhaul, the price of a new oilpump is peanuts, unless someone was in a real pinch.

 

[Exekiel69]

Me.... I like the sound of the sewing machine on steroids and have always preferred the engine sounds over the radio.

Me too . Also if the engine is running without any funny noises I'll leave it in peace and run until I can find something that really needs to get fixed.

 

[rubberfish]

13 at warm idles seems OK to me too.
Ya know, if your bored, and looking for
something to do, I got a ton of unfinished
projects here I could use some help with.

 

[Agnem]

Sometimes I see only a pound or two at hot idle on the Moosestang. It's been that way for a year now, and now problems.

 

[sle2115]

Sometimes I see only a pound or two at hot idle on the Moosestang. It's been that way for a year now, and now problems.

Did you mean "no" problems or are you having problems now?

I think the issue is that you didn't just rebuild the engine in the Bronco either. I would be concerned if a fresh motor made low pressure as well. While it is within spec, I would assume it to be on the high end of the spec, not the low end with that much money vested. It would be no different than rebuilding a motor and having the compression at the low end of the scale. Might run that way forever, but that is one of the reasons you go through an engine, to improve low numbers.

 

[Agnem]

Oops. Dumb extra character changes the whole meaning of the post doesn't it. I meant NO. Thanks for pointing that out.

 

[sle2115]

Oops. Dumb extra character changes the whole meaning of the post doesn't it. I meant NO. Thanks for pointing that out.

Yep, sure does!!! I thought you meant no as I hadn't seen a post about problems anywhere.

 

[Rob94F250]

I just did the oil gauge mod posted at http://www.thedieselstop.com/contents/getitems.php3?Real Oil Pressure Gauge 2

I checked the pressure with a mechanical gauge and I was seeing 35 PSI at idle, and 50 PSI at 2000 RPM on a "cold" engine with new 10W30 oil in it. The sendor is located on the turbo on my truck with a factory turbo IDI (160,000 miles on the clock).

The gauge now sits around the "N" in the word "normal" on the gauge at idle.

My dad taught mechanics for 25 years, and he felt that oil volume was more important than really high pressures. I'm not sure how a person could easily measure volume though...

I might be tempted to replace the oil pump. I did have to do this on a friends 88 GMC 350 with 220,000 miles. It was showing next to no pressure at idle, and about 5 PSI as you revved it up. New oil pump sent the pressure right back up, so I don't think there were any issues with the main bearing clearances.

Rob.

 

[Agnem]

Don't forget about that little spring do-hicky in the filter head, that can cause low oil presure readings.

 

[icanfixall]

Mel... I'm leaning towards the "springy thing" in the rear filter head. As I have stated before the low idle warm oil pressure is not a problem. Its the pressure at 2000 rpm thats low. The only reason I can think of is the bearings oil clearance, a defective oil pump or the regulating section of the rear oil cooler header (springy thing). I have around 5,000 miles on the motor and am still seeing plenty of blue smoke at idle or when I just touch the go peddle to leave a stop lite. Under hard acceleration It can really be seen and smelled if you are behind me. That problem can only be the valve guides or the rings not seated yet. Tight now I'm thinking the blue smoke is from the guides. I found them about .0035 but the book stated that both the intake and exhaust clearances are to be .0012 to .0029 and the service limit was set at .0055. So I'm well within the factory specs running at .003... Like I really need a reason to pull the motor and recheck everything. I know just pulling the oil cooler rear header will help the high oil pressure but the blue smoke will still be with me so it looks like I'm going in.