New Walmart SuperTech diesel coolant

[Cubey]

I thought I'd mention that they are now selling a 50/50 OAT heavy duty coolant for $11/gal. I don't see any mention of SCA, so presumably you need to add it. But the label mentions cavitation protection so maybe I'm wrong?

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[Jason1377]

Curious how they tested the 1 million miles or the 20,000 hours. Spring time I am doing a refresh of my coolant since I have never done it for the past 5 almost 5 yrs I have had my truck, only put maybe 30,000 miles on it.

 

[Cubey]

Curious how they tested the 1 million miles or the 20,000 hours. Spring time I am doing a refresh of my coolant since I have never done it for the past 5 almost 5 yrs I have had my truck, only put maybe 30,000 miles on it.

Some other company is making it where such tests were done. It's some major brand rebranded. Which one though, is anyone's guess. Read the fine print on the back (above the yellow box), 1mil miles is only half true, it needs an extender at 600k/4yrs/10k hrs.

It's only about $1.50/gal less than Final Charge 50/50, which was right on the shelf next to it. So it's perhaps not the best choice out there. I just figured I'd share what I saw.

I currently run Zerex G-05 in my RV which is about $10/gallon if you get the full strength (~$20/gal) and mix yourself with distilled water. My F250 needs a flush and replace badly but it's parked/stored right now, so it can sit like it is.

 

[frankenwrench]

Any mention of elc? I use that additive instead of sca. The gray bottle of final charge with the pink lid.

 

[Cubey]

Any mention of elc? I use that additive instead of sca. The gray bottle of final charge with the pink lid.

It says Extended Life, and the back label says it meets various performance requirements.

 

[frankenwrench]

It says Extended Life, and the back label says it meets various performance requirements.

Il have to check that out. Surely I could look online to see any additives. If nothing else it would be good to have available while on a trip and a hose busts and you need something cheap to gimp it home. At any rate it would be better than water.
Edit,
From what I can get from Google, it's made by CCI, or Zerex, equivalent to g-05. But can't get an actual "ingredient list" if you will. But I believe alot of members here already swear by that Zerex g-05. I have personally never used it other than in the 6.0 and 6.7 power strokes at work. No real issues with it in those trucks, but I don't know enough about it or the cooling requirements of our trucks to use it. My truck came to me with auto zone brand green antifreeze coolant in it and before becoming a member here, already started using elc not knowing any better. But no issues with that so far so I have left it alone for time being.

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

OAT = Organic Acid Technology
Be very careful with these new modern technologies in our old dinosaurs. My experience with 100’s of trucks is that it eats gaskets and seals.

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

Doesn’t need SCA’s, in fact adding them is a bad idea. Does not mix well with green coolant.
Coolant got extremely complicated and specific after the introduction of extended life coolants.

 

[frankenwrench]

OAT = Organic Acid Technology
Be very careful with these new modern technologies in our old dinosaurs. My experience with 100’s of trucks is that it eats gaskets and seals.

I've heard of this as well

 

[Booyah45828]

Doesn’t need SCA’s, in fact adding them is a bad idea. Does not mix well with green coolant.
Coolant got extremely complicated and specific after the introduction of extended life coolants.

OAT = Organic Acid Technology
Be very careful with these new modern technologies in our old dinosaurs. My experience with 100’s of trucks is that it eats gaskets and seals.

All of this. New coolants that are oat or hoat don't require or use sca's.

To check protection strength, you use their own specific strips to test ph, freezepoint, and OAT strength. They have an extender at 500k miles usually to get to the 1 million, but most of the time they require a flush and refill well before that due to cooling system acidity.

I wouldn't recommend their use unless the lack of sca's is necessary for an egr cooler. If you do decide to use them, the engine needs to be flushed and completely void of all old coolant, or it can sludge up. Think dexcool type sludge if you've ever experienced that. I've also seen them eat through heater cores and radiators on old vehicles. I'd stick with conventional green if it was me.

 

[DaveBen]

I am completely with Booyah on this. Use what you know works!

 

[nelstomlinson]

It's nitrite free. I wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot pole. I'm using the Napa green coolant, which has nitrites, and Napakool additive when it tests low.

 

[Cubey]

It's nitrite free. I wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot pole. I'm using the Napa green coolant, which has nitrites, and Napakool additive when it tests low.

I'm forever a big dummy about coolant.

For some reason, the Australian version of Valvoline's site predominately markets Zerex G05 as being containing nitrite, while the US site doesn't mention it at all. Different formulas or just different marketing? I'm thinking it's the latter. Well in any case it's easy to get and sees to be good for IDIs, so I'll stick to using it.

https://www.valvoline.com/en-australia/our-products/coolant-and-antifreeze/zerex-g-05-antifreeze-rtu

https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/antifreeze-products/g-05-antifreeze-coolant

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I wouldn't recommend their use unless the lack of sca's is necessary for an egr cooler.

Thank God we don't have to worry about that crap on our IDIs!