IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Then, if all that fails, pull the IP and injectors back out. Next use them as cores when you buy from a quality rebuilder. Lastly NEVER buy from Pensacola Diesel again.
New IP, GP, and injectors… she’s running but smoking like crazy got a lope too
- Thread starter Jcsheriff
- Start date
Jcsheriff
Registered User
Yea, I guess that’s why they say, you get what you pay for. Lesson learned: can y’all recommend a few quality rebuilders?
i figure I better do it now with quality parts before the one I have in there get froze up with carbon and I have to wrestle everything out again.
i figure I better do it now with quality parts before the one I have in there get froze up with carbon and I have to wrestle everything out again.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
The four known good ones are (in no particular order) Russ (Typ4 on here), Justin at R&D IDI Performance, Wes (Thewespaul on here) at Classic Diesel Designs, and Mel (Agnem on here) at Conestogs Diesel. I have personally dealt with Russ, Wes, and Mel. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from Justin either. Their parts aren't cheap, but cheap fuel parts are just that. I'll bet that most of us on here have made the mistake of trying to buy cheaper IPs and injectors, me included. It's also a mistake that I (and probably the rest of us) will never make again.
Fredrickson
Full Access Member
This may be a dumb question, but the collective hive mind can educate me.
People are often talking about turning up the injector pump by adjusting the screws.
1) Could the screws have been incorrectly set when the pump was rebuilt so it was 'overfueling' from the get go? (regardless of timing)
2) is there another internal adjustment screw inside the pump that could be messing with the fuel flow?
People are often talking about turning up the injector pump by adjusting the screws.
1) Could the screws have been incorrectly set when the pump was rebuilt so it was 'overfueling' from the get go? (regardless of timing)
2) is there another internal adjustment screw inside the pump that could be messing with the fuel flow?
Jcsheriff
Registered User
I thought the same thing, but not knowing too much about the systemi was kind of leaning to the fact that Pensacola diesel gave me some bad injectors. Truck never used to smoke, could the pump have a setting that I could try to adjust? I’d be willing to try it but wouldn’t know where to start. Once I get some more money saved up I’m going to have to redo all with good parts anyway
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
1. Yes, but the result would be higher idle, not white smoke. White smoke is un-burned fuel; pointing to an injector hanging open or bad IP timing or a compression issue.
(Edit: The fuel ***** that anyone can adjust will affect total fuel and will also adjust the idle speed slightly. I was trying to say that no matter what you do with that internal ***** would not make white smoke. There are other adjustments also that most of us should not play with, that also will not make white smoke.)
2. Yes, but not really adjustable. More like "put together wrong with the cheapest available parts by the lowest-paid high-school dropout we could find".
Did I mention I also tried Pensacola once?
However OP you might try running some Hotshots Extreme or other diesel cleaner in a low tank of fuel and do as @Selahdoor mentioned to work the engine hard. Could clean up something that may fix the obvious issue. It's still a crappy rebuild no matter what and will fail well inside the mileage a good rebuild would.
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Jcsheriff
Registered User
thanks Josh _bear, I’ll run some cleaners through and see if it helps get rid of smoke. I’m sure it’s another notch in the belt of Pensacola diesel. Never again- I’m working some overtime now so I can get together the money for good parts. She’s running strong but smoking worst than cheech and Chong “ up in smoke”. Thank you all for your input, lesson learned.
Jcsheriff
Registered User
Happy Fourth of July to all y’all. Hoping you celebrate safely and smart.
selahdor- I had not had a chance to post my most recent update but I have exactly the pictures you were asking for.
I still had that gut feeling in my stomach to advance the IP more but I felt like I couldn’t get it to go anymore. I was using a pry bar and large screwdriver to leverage the IP, I felt I had it as far as it could go. Saturday I was at tractor supply and as I was passing the hardware section an idea hit me. I bought a turnbuckle tensioner, a 1/4 “ threaded eyelet, fender washer and a nut. My idea to use these items as a sort of IP adjustment tool.
i got home and set it up as pictured, I had to straighten the 1/4” eyelet part to for an L shape. Then used the unthreaded part (the one I unbent) and inserted it into one of the unused threaded holes on the drivers side of the IP. I then took the turnbuckle part and hooked it onto the fuel filter housing bracket. The other end which is an eyelet, I slid over the top of the threaded L shape piece that I tapped into a screw hole on the IP.
I loosened the IP bolts, and then tightened the turn buckle. In the pictures you can see two indentations that are the same size on the advance side of the static timing line on the IP Mount. I did these with a screw driver earlier so I could find the spots where the truck ran the most smooth.
Up until I made this tool, I could only get to the edge of the second mark I made. I cranked the turnbuckle tighter until the Mark was in the middle of my last Mark. Tightened the bolts back down, left the tool on and truck fired right up, but smoke was so much less visible.
i remember what you told me about if I was rolling coal on acceleration then I was too advanced. So I’d work the throttle and still no black smoke, so I thought I’ll shut it down and try to advance it a bit more. Once again loosened the bolts and tightened the turnbuckle to the furthest edge of my mark and tightened the bolts again. This time she fired up and sounded so smooth, the smoke was almost non existent.
i remember y’all suggested I get her on the road and with her and load her up.
Now I got very encouraged, I shut off the truck and took off the turnbuckle, then cranked the bolts down as tight at I could get ‘em. Drive her through the neighborhood on my way to the highway. The smoke was light but seemed to be clearing.
one on the Highway, I opened her up and she ran so much stronger and smoother than before the original IP failed. After about 20 minutes of good Highway speed’s, I saw no more smoke at idle, no coal on acceleration, nothing just a smooth running motor. I came home and connected my John Deere tractor, and took her for a few pulls up the hills in my area. She took it like a champ.
I’ll probably run her like this for now until I can get the leak in my A/C system located and fixed. She gets to be my daily driver again. Thank you all for your input and knowledge.
selahdor- I had not had a chance to post my most recent update but I have exactly the pictures you were asking for.
I still had that gut feeling in my stomach to advance the IP more but I felt like I couldn’t get it to go anymore. I was using a pry bar and large screwdriver to leverage the IP, I felt I had it as far as it could go. Saturday I was at tractor supply and as I was passing the hardware section an idea hit me. I bought a turnbuckle tensioner, a 1/4 “ threaded eyelet, fender washer and a nut. My idea to use these items as a sort of IP adjustment tool.
i got home and set it up as pictured, I had to straighten the 1/4” eyelet part to for an L shape. Then used the unthreaded part (the one I unbent) and inserted it into one of the unused threaded holes on the drivers side of the IP. I then took the turnbuckle part and hooked it onto the fuel filter housing bracket. The other end which is an eyelet, I slid over the top of the threaded L shape piece that I tapped into a screw hole on the IP.
I loosened the IP bolts, and then tightened the turn buckle. In the pictures you can see two indentations that are the same size on the advance side of the static timing line on the IP Mount. I did these with a screw driver earlier so I could find the spots where the truck ran the most smooth.
Up until I made this tool, I could only get to the edge of the second mark I made. I cranked the turnbuckle tighter until the Mark was in the middle of my last Mark. Tightened the bolts back down, left the tool on and truck fired right up, but smoke was so much less visible.
i remember what you told me about if I was rolling coal on acceleration then I was too advanced. So I’d work the throttle and still no black smoke, so I thought I’ll shut it down and try to advance it a bit more. Once again loosened the bolts and tightened the turnbuckle to the furthest edge of my mark and tightened the bolts again. This time she fired up and sounded so smooth, the smoke was almost non existent.
i remember y’all suggested I get her on the road and with her and load her up.
Now I got very encouraged, I shut off the truck and took off the turnbuckle, then cranked the bolts down as tight at I could get ‘em. Drive her through the neighborhood on my way to the highway. The smoke was light but seemed to be clearing.
one on the Highway, I opened her up and she ran so much stronger and smoother than before the original IP failed. After about 20 minutes of good Highway speed’s, I saw no more smoke at idle, no coal on acceleration, nothing just a smooth running motor. I came home and connected my John Deere tractor, and took her for a few pulls up the hills in my area. She took it like a champ.
I’ll probably run her like this for now until I can get the leak in my A/C system located and fixed. She gets to be my daily driver again. Thank you all for your input and knowledge.
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The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Wow glad to hear she's running well!
Nice work!
The normal way to adjust them is with a crescent wrench on the rectangle tab on the IP by the top mounting bolt. But using a turnbuckle would be a good way to be very consistent. The reason it's hard to turn that far is that your fuel lines were all tightened down in the retarded position. Give them all a 1/4 turn loosen and then re-tighten them(so not one at a time, but all loose at the same time). This will drop the tension on them and the IP bolts.
Nice work!
The normal way to adjust them is with a crescent wrench on the rectangle tab on the IP by the top mounting bolt. But using a turnbuckle would be a good way to be very consistent. The reason it's hard to turn that far is that your fuel lines were all tightened down in the retarded position. Give them all a 1/4 turn loosen and then re-tighten them(so not one at a time, but all loose at the same time). This will drop the tension on them and the IP bolts.
Jcsheriff
Registered User
That’s why I love this site and these trucks. You can still work on them without a college degree in electronics and for the more technical stuff I can tap into y’all’s wisdom. Thanks again
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