MIDNIGHT RIDER
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How big of a chore is it to replace all the various rubber seals, etc. on the doors of a 1985 F-350??
Has anyone used one of the kits from LMC TRUCK??
Thanks.
NEW DOOR RUBBER
- Thread starter MIDNIGHT RIDER
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How big of a chore is it to replace all the various rubber seals, etc. on the doors of a 1985 F-350??
Has anyone used one of the kits from LMC TRUCK??
Thanks.
f-two-fiddy
Registered User
I don't know what LMC charges, but here's another source for parts.
Changing them out is a piece of cake.
Changing them out is a piece of cake.
Diesel Fly
Body By Rustoleum
f-two-fiddy said:
Did you buy the kit from the eBay link that you sent? How's the quality? Also, it doesn't appear as if the kit has the triangular vent window seal? Maybe I'm just not seeing it?
krawlr
Yup, that's me
I used the kits from LMC. I used hand cleaner on the channel strips to slide them in. Everything else was pretty straight forward.
krawlr
Yup, that's me
Diesel Fly said:
That is seperate from the "anti rattle kit" that LMC sells.
h2odrx
Anti-O
wow what a price for all that? LMC is way higher?
MIDNIGHT RIDER
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If I read my catalog correctly, LMC gets about $115 for the window channels and $40 each for the big door seal.
There is a whole lot more rubber on a factory door than either one is showing.
Doesn't anyone offer it all, for both sides, in one kit??
In the anti-rattle kit, how does one go about replacing the inner and outer pieces that go at the bottom of the window opening??
Thanks.
Jim73
Full Access Member
The bottom pieces are built with integral clips which engage the door shell sheet metal on the outer one and the door trim panel on the inner. I was able to lower the window and work the clips free fairly easily - they slide up and off the door and trim panel once you get the center prong over the edge. A thin piece of shim stock might come in handy - you can work it in between the prongs and the panel to help work the prongs over the lip. If you try to brute-force them you'll get them out but you might break parts of the inner trim panel if you don't watch what you're doing.
One note on aftermarket stuff here - I bought the LMC kits and the aft ends needed some trimming to fit my truck correctly. They were pushing too far into the window run channel and pinching the window run strip in. Pay attention to the mating of the anti-rattle strips with the window runs when you install - you don't want gaps, but you also don't want to be putting a big preload on the window run material or you can greatly increase the drag the window mechanism has to overcome to raise and lower the window.
I note another source for kits here:
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/c-196_weatherstrip.htm
Jim
One note on aftermarket stuff here - I bought the LMC kits and the aft ends needed some trimming to fit my truck correctly. They were pushing too far into the window run channel and pinching the window run strip in. Pay attention to the mating of the anti-rattle strips with the window runs when you install - you don't want gaps, but you also don't want to be putting a big preload on the window run material or you can greatly increase the drag the window mechanism has to overcome to raise and lower the window.
I note another source for kits here:
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/c-196_weatherstrip.htm
Jim
Last edited:
Diesel Fly
Body By Rustoleum
Thanks for the link!
TLBREWER
Windy B Ranch
I just replaced an inner anti-rattle strip on my wife's truck with one from LMC and have a complete set to do on my daughter's truck (after re-paint). One thing I noticed is they are not dimensionally the same as the OEM's. Very close, but that 1/32 or 1/16" difference can play havoc when trying to get everything to seal correctly. Construction quality seems to be very good though.
Tom
Tom
