Needs a very quick how-to

7.3_IDI_guy

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As some of you may know I had a wheel stud spinning in place and not allowing the lug nut to back off. I bent the stud to cause tension on it and I got it off. In a rush of excitement I hit the stud with a hammer causing it to fall into the hub, didn't wanna do that cause I don;t know how to remove the hub. So how do I do that? I think its s-10s that just slide off but this one doesn't. Need a quick response guys got some rain comin in soon
 

Fordsandguns

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It's a sterling 10.25 right? On the 93 in your sig? It will just slide off, you just need two screw drivers or a brake spoon and a small screw driver to adjust the shoes back. Once you get them back enough the drum will come off.
 

hesutton

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Talking about removing the hub?

Tire/wheel (Duh. LOL)
Drum (as IACA stated above)
Pull axle bolts and remove axle
Use special socket to remove special nut holding hub on spindle.
Remove hub.

Heath
 
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gandalf

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That sounds about right for a Sterling 10.25. The problem might be that the drum is worn a bit, has a groove the width of the shoes, and the shoes have been adjusted out to compensate. There is then a ridge at the edge of the drum which catches on the shoes and holds the drum on.

Heath just came in with another answer. What Heath described is not the Sterling axle, but the other one, which illudes me at the moment. What I described is for the Sterling axle.

First job, then, is to decide which axle you have.
 

GOOSE

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Your brake drum will come right off with some coaxing. Run in the brake slack adjuster as stated. You may need some heat, as in a torch, to pop it off of the hub. The exact sequence of operation eludes me but I think your stud will be loose and within the drum for easy removal. As Heath stated, you will need a special socket to remove the bearing retainer nut off of the spindle. Once you do that, the whole hub will come off. I believe you will need to remove the hub to install your new stud. Get a new inner hub seal while you are at it, cheap insurance.

Upon install, torque the inner bearing nut to 50 ft lbs and back off a 1/4 turn. This will put the proper pre load on your bearings.Torque the locking nut to about 100 ft lbs if I recall correctly. If there is a ridge that's real bad on your drum and you decide to not get them turned, at least take a grinder and get rid of the ridge so you are not beating yourself up as much next time. Use plenty of antiseize on the mating surfaces of the drum and the hub so future dis assembly is a bit easier for you. Good luck and keep us posted.;Sweet
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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don't want to high jack to much here, this is my situation.

what would prevent the drum from coming off at all? the rear brakes were just done on it the drum had no lip on the friction surface. the pass side drum pops right off but the driver's side won't budge. before the brake job, the driver's side drum was the one that popped right off.
 

typ4

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don't want to high jack to much here, this is my situation.

what would prevent the drum from coming off at all? the rear brakes were just done on it the drum had no lip on the friction surface. the pass side drum pops right off but the driver's side won't budge. before the brake job, the driver's side drum was the one that popped right off.

just a really tight fit on the hub is holding it.
 

purg113

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That is where you can ajust your back brakes to get the drum off.
block front wheels put in nutral jack up rear tire ajust brakes while spinning wheel if it gets tight you need to turn the ajuster the other way till it is lose and the drum should come right off.
 

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