Need a picture

[laserjock]

Does anyone have a picture of the bottom side of a set of rear lift blocks? F250 or 350 the bottom should be the same. After cleaning mine up, all I have are some little nubs and not much else to set in the spring perches. Need to see a known good set to figure out if I need to repair them to make them sit right.

Here is a pic of one of mine.

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Seems like it would move around a bit if the thing doesn't fit well in the spring perch. May explain why the leafs look the way they do.

Thanks.


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[Zaggnutt]

I apologize, I don't have a pic for you but I can tell you that I replaced my rear leaf springs in December? and the bottom of my blocks looked the same. The nipple fit into a cut out and the two embossed blocks set into to indents in the "spring perches". I was a little skeptical too until I set the new leaf springs on it and I felt it all lock together. I cannot tell you what it is "supposed" to be but that is exactly what I got.

 

[laserjock]

So there were not 4 raised rectangles? Seems like there should be. Almost feels like there was something there and it rusted off.

Maybe somebody has a pic somewhere. Back to google.


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[ifrythings]

Here ya go, F250 and F350 factory lift blocks

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Edit: On closer inspection of your lift blocks, I think there rusted fairly bad, as all the blocks I've ever seen are flat on the bottom with just the nipple, it's the nipple that does the locating and the U-bolts hold everything together nice and tight.

 

[laserjock]

Thanks for the pics! Those are not exactly like mine because mine have the two raised rectangles along with the nipples. I know the nipples are deteriorated pretty bad. What I'm trying to figure out is what the deal with the rectangular portions is. I have found a couple picture on the net and none of them have those. They all look like yours. Now I'm confused. I guess I can weld them up and grind them to shape. So long as the thing is pretty close to center. Hmm.


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[ifrythings]

By the way your blocks look, it looks like they rusted into the spring perch as you can the big lip on the edge of your block that sat off the side and that should be flat. The blocks I've pulled off do have 4 bumps in them but there just rust build up and scale, you mite have to find better blocks as those ones may angle you axle if there rusted as bad as the picture looks. Also on the 2wd trucks that don't use the blocks, the springs get those 4 reverse indents from rust also.

 

[laserjock]

I'll have to look at them tonight but I think the block is flat. I think what you are seeing is just the line of where it sat. Metal is rougher making it look like there is a lip there. I think what I may do is make a template of the spring perch and then grind the nub off and drill it for a tie bolt to give me the correct nub. Probably easier than welding it up and sculpting it.

 

[Zaggnutt]

So are you worried about block twisting left to right? Seems like a lot of extra work to fab something you already have. There is so much pressure on that block from the leaf springs, then u-bolts, then the bed and frame...

I apologize, I don't want to deter you from your work. I guess I am trying to better understand why the tie bolt idea is necessary.

 

[laserjock]

The center nub, if you will, is what provides the location of the thing and hence the stack of stuff on top of it. I don't want it sloping around. The idea of the tie bolt was to just replace the nub so it would fit snuggly into the hole in the spring perch so it wont move around so much. Maybe its a dumb idea.

I agree with you that there is a lot of down pressure there. I assume the reason that the two raised rectangles are there is to stop rotation because the center nub handles location. I could probably bolt the thing back together as it is an never have a problem. I've gone to this much trouble, I hate for things not not be right or at least as close to right as is reasonably possible. There's that word.... reasonably.

The spacers shown above only have the center point for location so I guess that's all I need really. Just don't want the thing to slide off.

 

[laserjock]

And no need to apologize.

A lot of times I come here for just a sanity check like now..... Nope mine is still missing.....

 

[Zaggnutt]

And no need to apologize.

A lot of times I come here for just a sanity check like now..... Nope mine is still missing.....

! I hear you! Thanks for the clarity. I have been checking in on your build so I know you are down to the frame and working your way back up so I would not question your desire to do things right the first time. It's a handful you got there! I am new to the 7.3idi and new to diesel service and maintenance, but I recently did this work and when I was first putting things back together the block was wiggling and wobbling and I was having trouble getting things in place UNTIL the "Tab" in the bottom of the block set into the spring perch AND THEN the nut and bolt protruding through the bottom of the leaf spring set into the top of the block. With those in place and then the leaf springs in their shackle and hangers, new u-bolts tightened it felt very snug and solid.

I tend to question and second guess everything with this truck because of the halfa$$ed work the PO did, but the leaf springs/blocks were rock solid.

 

[Zaggnutt]

Good luck with the rest of your build...... and your sanity

 

[typ4]

I ground the nub off mine and drilled it for a dowel pin/ or piece of a bolt. The better it fits in the locating holes together the less chance of the spring/axle sliding out of position. Those dont weld up well.
JM2C

 

[laserjock]

Thanks for the insight Russ. I was dubious about trying to weld it hence using the tie bolt head idea. Need to do some measuring. A socket head cap screw may work if I can get something the correct size.