Mixing G code injectors in an emergency

PROFG

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On same topic, my 7.3 was N/A, I believe, OEM but has Banks Sidewinder from OP. Don't know which injectors in it, planning on pop testing them, but would like to change out set also. How do you tell which code they are and should I get BB, G, E, or what as a set. Not pressing need since starts fine, kind of rattly, seems to run fine (but no comparison made with other 7.3 so not sure). Any advice kindly welcomed. Thanks
 

chillman88

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On same topic, my 7.3 was N/A, I believe, OEM but has Banks Sidewinder from OP. Don't know which injectors in it, planning on pop testing them, but would like to change out set also. How do you tell which code they are and should I get BB, G, E, or what as a set. Not pressing need since starts fine, kind of rattly, seems to run fine (but no comparison made with other 7.3 so not sure). Any advice kindly welcomed. Thanks

They're all kind of rattly lol

Personally I wouldn't fuss over which code you get as long as you get them from one of the guys on this site.

Typ4 (Russ Mathis)
Thewespaul (Classic Diesel Designs)
Agnem (Conestoga Diesel Injection)

They will all sell you a good matched set that will be good quality.
 

IDIBRONCO

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They're all kind of rattly lol

Personally I wouldn't fuss over which code you get as long as you get them from one of the guys on this site.

Typ4 (Russ Mathis)
Thewespaul (Classic Diesel Designs)
Agnem (Conestoga Diesel Injection)

They will all sell you a good matched set that will be good quality.
I'll second this. I could be wrong, but I don't believe that the original "code" on them matters once the injectors have been properly rebuilt. It's probably meaningless at that point.
 

PROFG

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Does not legitimate rebuilder stamp new component code, if changed?
 

FordGuy100

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Back in the day, G-codes were thought of as some performance upgrade as they came from factory turbo. So I purchased some at one point and swapped them in, stripping the threads on 2 or 3 of them. Ended up replacing them with what I had previously, BB codes I think.

Anyways that was like 40k miles ago, I don't ever remember touching them again. Probably doesn't run as smooth as it should, but it runs good enough, with decent power/mileage. Not optimized but I don't see any detrimental drawbacks either.
 

Natehimself36

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Yeah like everyone else said, any of them should be fine as long as you get them from a reputable builder / supplier. I wouldn't mess with them if they all pop close. Remember the return cap o rings and copper washers
 

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