Manual Locking Hubs reasembly questions.

[akoldnav]

I needed to do a front brake job on my 90 F350 C 4X4. When I got the wheel and Caliper off I discovered a cracked roter. I pulled out the guts of the manual locking hub assembly (Had to to get to the nuts that hold the hub on) which came out a little hard. Now when I am trying to put it back together, the large splined aluminum piece will not go back into the hub.

Would putting a little heat onto the steel hub and placing the aluminum part in the freezer help, or do I have some problem that requires a complete replacement of the manual locking hub parts?

Thanks

akoldnav

 

[gabbyr100rs]

I just pulled one of these apart this afternoon as part of a rebuild project on a D60 for my truck. There were two nuts separated by an aluminum washer--which has index holes in it. The inner nut has a stud on it that fits into one of the holes on the splined aluminum washer.

You torque the inner nut as per specs in your Chilton book, then back it off just far enough so you can slide the splined washer on and engage one of the holes in the washer over the stud on the outer surface of the inner nut. Next, put the outer nut on the spindle and torque it to spec. I have a special strangely shaped socket that engages the four slots in the nuts--it still is a chore to get the right torque on those buggers.

I hope I made sense. I have never had to use heat to get my hubs apart or put them back together. Cold beer helps, though.

Good luck!

 

[akoldnav]

I got the nuts and washer with the metal shaft in ok. the part I am having a devil of a time with is the guts of the manual locking hubs. You know, the thing that has Free and Lock on it. I just can't get it to go back in the hub. I don't see and od shaped spline that needs to be lined up or anything else that is holding it up.

Anybody know how to get that back together, please post it.

akoldnav

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

With the locker not on the hub, ascertain that the hub is engaging the axle-shaft, as it would be locked in 4X4.

Position the manual selector to LOCK.

Line the fingers, that are made on a ring, that should be visible, with the lowest part of the cam that is on the manual selector.

It should go on easily.

If the actuator is not showing LOCK, or 4X4, or ENGAGED, or whatever, it will refuse to go on.

 

[f-two-fiddy]

Yup, it's just a matter of getting all the splines lined up.

 

[akoldnav]

I finally got those stubborn buggers in. The trick in this case was to pry the axle shaft a small amount to center it a little better in the hub. After that everything went together.

Thanks for the help.

akoldnav