Lucas Super Coolant

[JohnZ]

I have searched the forums and I have not been able to find any information about the coolant additive "Lucas Super Coolant". The Lucas Oil web site http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=349&catid=9&loc=show does not specify what is actually in this product, but it is also just about the only coolant additive I can find in this area. I've called some parts warehouses and the typical auto parts box stores and most of the time I get a long silent pause at the other end with a response "What is That" or "What is SCA4". I have found the proper test strips at a warehouse that sells to the Diesel shops in the area, but no additive.

My questions...

Is the product "Lucas Super Coolant" a safe product to put into the coolant of our trucks - Even if just in addition to SCA4.
Anyone in the SLC Utah area who has found SCA4 at any stores on the shelf?
Anyone in this area have some extra test strips?

Thanks in Advance - JohnZ

 

[Mulochico]

I get my additive through my Ford dealer. About $9 a bottle. Not to expensive. Motorcraft brand.

 

[yARIC008]

Are you asking if this can replace diesel additives or are you asking if this can be used safely in addition to the normal diesel additives? Are you having overheating issues? If not why would you use this? Even if you were why would you use this? It's just some snake oil in my opinion. I disagree with it's front label. I think Coolant is enough.

 

[thx997303]

Shoulda let me know John. Ford dealership here in AF has Ford's VC-8 additive in stock. No test strips though. They sell it for between 6 and 7 dollars a bottle. I could pick some up for ya, only a mile or two from my house.

 

[yARIC008]

If you're just needing additive, amazon has it. That's where I've been buying it. Test strips too...

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-Di..._1?ie=UTF8&qid=1378430341&sr=8-1&keywords=vc8

http://www.amazon.com/Fleetguard-Co...1378430374&sr=8-1&keywords=diesel+test+strips

 

[JohnZ]

Well I feel sheepish, I spent the last couple of days searching for sca and the correct thermostat with near zero luck. For some reason I never thought about the dealership.

Yes I have been having overheat problems when pulling a load up a steep grade. I've got a 1000 mile (total) trip coming up pulling near 19k total combined weight with some 5-10 mile climbs of >6% grades, some on dirt roads. This is the longest road trip since I bought the truck 6 years ago.

I am trying to think of everything that can help with a successful trip... Especially since my wife's suburban just overheated and smoked the oil by the time she got home from a 10 mile errand. So, after spending a few days resurrecting her baby, I began to rack my brain thinking of every possible thing I can do to help prevent a heat related breakdown on the trip coming up. Two days ago, I started looking for local sources of parts for this weekends run of truck maintenance to prepare for the trip.

Prior trips pulling the same load up long grades have literally resulted in the engine getting so hot that smoke started to pour out under the hood over the windshield. The water gauge would be pointing at the letter a or l in "Normal". I would end up having to pull over at the nearest safe spot to let her cool down. So, This weekend, I am installing some proper gauges and looking for a good deal on a pyro kit. This weekend I am also installing the group buy fuel pump, motorcraft thermostat, e4od lockup mod, water temp gauge, oil pressure gauge, then next week a new drivers side exhaust manifold and a pyro for which I am still seeking a good deal. There are three cracks in that manifold now, I already have a replacement so I will drill and tap for the pyro before install.

(Edited for clarification on my computer - Original post was from my phone)

 

[JohnZ]

Are you asking if this can replace diesel additives or are you asking if this can be used safely in addition to the normal diesel additives? Are you having overheating issues? If not why would you use this? Even if you were why would you use this? It's just some snake oil in my opinion. I disagree with it's front label. I think Coolant is enough.

Actually I was asking both questions. Just about all I could find on the internet was from race forums where they were not allowed to run coolant in case of a spill on the track. It was added to distilled water and helped to keep temps lower on the track vs straight water. The other posts were about it dissolving aluminum radiators and other components but no issues with iron and copper.

 

[JohnZ]

Shoulda let me know John. Ford dealership here in AF has Ford's VC-8 additive in stock. No test strips though. They sell it for between 6 and 7 dollars a bottle. I could pick some up for ya, only a mile or two from my house.

Sent you a pm about this weekend and doing some load tests for your truck. - John Z

 

[dgr]

Hmmmm. It needs ions in the water. I think I'd pass on that. You might try some redline water wetter.

I use fleetcharge for my antifreeze. The instructions seem pretty simple and I can get it at Oreilleys but they keep it in the back.

 

[Dieselcrawler]

I use water wetter in all my derby cars. Only allowed straight water. It does help keep my big blocks cooler, till the rad gets taken out.

 

[JohnZ]

I use water wetter in all my derby cars. Only allowed straight water. It does help keep my big blocks cooler, till the rad gets taken out.

I think that answers the question then... that product does not belong in our trucks then.

What is the condition of the radiator when taken out?

Thanks

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4

 

[Dieselcrawler]

By taken out I mean front end hit destroying radiator. Lol.
I also run water wetter in both my trucks. Didn't see a change in the dually, but helps the play truck stay cool when abusing it

 

[Coyote_Red]

One thing to look at is if your fan clutch is bad. I was having issues with overheating in MI pulling a single car trailer and did some research and concluded that my fan clutch is shot and not locking up to provide proper CFM. Here is the link I found to diagnose a bad clutch. http://www.mwrench.com/Whitepapers/FanClutchtest.pdf People use these trucks in AZ and NV so something is not right on your rig.

As for the snake oil comment, I have to disagree. I put this in my wheeling truck to help lower the temps when I am creeping around in low range. Even with my e-fans and a 160* thermostat I was still higher than I liked and it did actually lower the coolant temps. What it is glycerin that helps to raise the boiling temp of the water reducing evaporation and decreases the surface tension of the water allowing it to contact more of the block and the radiator to exchange more heat. As for it's compatability with SCA I have no clue.

 

[JohnZ]

the radiator and fan clutch were the first to be replaced. The clutch does kick in. The shop that did the radiator said they used the proper coolant pre-charged with sca's. When the fan kicks in, it makes a slipping belt noise when it does and is really loud. Works good unless the grade is steep and long, then it drops the temps but they still slowly climb until either it overheats, I pull over, or crest the hill.

According to map my ride, some of the canyons around here have segments over 20% grade. The worst I pulled was over 40%, but that was the back side of a gravel pit. Did it at about 1mph then tipped the scales at 26.8k total load weight... wow, wet dirt gets heavy fast. But that was only a 50-60 foot climb in less than 50 yards. Normally that road only sees those huge front end loaders running around the pit.

So, it sounds like this type of product works when used for the correct purpose. But it is unknown how it would react with the sca's, or the long term effects on our trucks... well I am not planning on being the guinny pig here, especially not right before a long road trip pulling the trailer.

Thanks for the input with everyone's experience.. taking out the radiator...

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4

 

[icanfixall]

Redline Water Wetter is great stuff. It works well but your cooling system must be in proper working order first. Actually if the cooling system is working correctly we don't see overheating issues. Try some blet dressing to hold the belt to the pulleys when the clutch locks up. Also that cracked manifold is causing plenty of exhaust pressure loss. Thats the power the turbo needs to see for it to make boost. I bet your boost is low because of the cracked exhaust manifold. Do you know what your timing is. If your not running at least 8.5 advance your pushing more combustion heat into the exhaust. How old and how many miles are on the pump too. Those grades are really steep. Might try to take them in short hops.