So I'm building a idi, it's gunna have a db2 that I'm building and I'm taking the leaf spring out of the pump I'm wondering what your guys thoughts are on how to lock the advance piston on your pump so you can run fixed timing and be able to adjust transfer pressure and not have to worry about messing up your advance piston settings and at the same time make it easier to adjust the fuel rate for idle as removing the leaf spring will not allow the pump to idle correctly if the transfer pressure isn't adjusted right and and the advance piston isn't as well lmk what yalls thought are!!!!
Locking the advance piston on a db2 rotoary pump
- Thread starter mike k
- Start date
IDIBOBS
Registered User
for what gain? I have no clue in the world. I’ve been a mechanic for 35 years. I’ve learned one thing that usually holds true. Why mess with stock? Is this mod going to make a huge amount more power? If so can the motor handle the power? Easier to start? Better milage? Better longevity? More reliable? If something goes bad and you need a new pump will you be able to replace it with a stock one? I’m actually asking because I don’t know how this would help a Idi. My truck is mostly stock ish and it pulls my legal limit 10.5k horse trailer at legal speed of 55mph just fine and gets great milage to boot. Actually better then my grand daughters brand new little ford 4cyl suv. So with the power and mpgs I would do anything more to a Idi.
So the advance piston wears in the bore and taking the leaf spring out of the pump allows the plungers to move further allowing more fuel to be injected but it does it all through the range so it messes with your idle fueling allot so you have to lower your transfer pressure to try and adjust the amount of fuel going into the plungers and the locked timing part it would just eliminate the issue of the advance piston(steel) sliding in the housing(aluminum) and wearing it out also wouldn't have to adjust the pressure for the advance piston with locked timing you'd just do like Justin's db4, or wess big bore db2 pump and advance the pump timing by one tooth and I'm building a motor to go and race not reliability I see what you are saying though and I get your skeptical view on it
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
My opinion is that you should contact one of those guys and get their advice. They both build pumps for making big power. I know that I have nothing else to offer here.
The RD4-130 is supposed to be very streetable, maximum safe fueling for stock naturally aspirated rods, and I think ballpark of 350 wheel horsepower. Requires all the other upgrades, Stage 1 093 drop in, or R&D kits, head studs, valve springs, intercooler. My understanding is that pump is too hot for towing, a 110 seems to be the most if you’re gonna pull, even then, probably best to have factory turbo or modified Powerstroke rods.
I don’t know what Wes’ interpretation of what pump for what modifications and power level, but that is R&D’s.
I don’t know what Wes’ interpretation of what pump for what modifications and power level, but that is R&D’s.
Last edited:
I plan on getting r&ds powerstroke rods, head studs from cdd r&d gurdle I'm gunna get the stage 1 cam and shave .020 off the top of the pistons with total seal gapped top ring and gapless 2nd ring and a custom . .140 thousandth head gaskets with a 6.0 turbo adapted to the hot pipes with the 6.0 intercooler and water injection to cool things down when it gets hot but no I won't be towing at all it's gunna be a hotrod
If you’re looking to spend that kind of money, best to spend a couple more grand getting a dedicated performance injection pump, from R&D or CDD.
These engines are more expensive to modify than a Powerstroke. Keep that in mind.
You’re probably on your own with the turbo. I’d recommend once again, R&D’s system. Cheaper and likely with more power capabilities.
Kdo58
Full Access Member
DB2 Tuning Guide
For a long time the 7.3 and 6.9 DB2 injection pump has been a "magic box" that you didn't mess with other than some fuel screw adjustments. This guide will help you to get the most out of your stock pump, without dropping the coin on a modified pump. *Before making any of these adjustments, it...
www.oilburners.net
Similar threads
