Lifting locations on a engine block with no heads

[cheap bronco]

I have a spare motor I will need to get up in the air to pull the pan and check the main rod bearings, but I have no heads or intake installed, so I cant lift it by the lifting hooks on the intake. I realize the rear is simple, bolt the chain to the plate but what about the front? Thanks to all that respond to all my question, the answers help a great deal.

 

[TWeatherford]

Run a bolt through a chain into the head bolt holes. Just be careful not to mess up the head surface.

 

[FarmerFrank]

Or even grab 2 5/16 front cover bolts and V the chain to the rear one. But i too suggest the head bolt holes with a big washer on the block deck side to help minimize risk of deep scratches

 

[TahoeTom]

The bolts where the ground cables attach. They are pretty low with the engine upright, would work better with engine upside down.

 

[G. Mann]

You want to pull the pan?

Heads and intake are off?.. I'm guessing the IP is off also?

Why not lift the engine from the front enough to slide a used tire under it. [engine hoist lift of course] set the rear of engine on one side of the tire and tip it on it's back as you let it down using the tire to catch the engine and protect it..

Belly up.. you have clear access to the pan.. everything goes faster and safer..

OR... stand the engine up on the rear plate with a stack of 2x4's under it to clear the crank or flywheel.. if you still have it on [I'd take it off] It wouldn't be quite as stable that way.. I'd keep the hoist attached just so it doesn't decide to tip on you.

Head bolt holes.. Hardware store bolts with same thread pitch and flat washers on both sides of the chain link to keep from scaring up the block.. and give a good "pinch" on the chain links.

 

[icanfixall]

Your best purchase will be any head bolt hole but use a large flat washer to keep the block from being damaged from the chain. The head bolt threads are 1/2x13 national course. You will probably need a 3 inch long bolt. Reason for this is the block is counter drilled down 3/4 inch from the block deck so there are no threads in that area. This is to make sure the head bolts don't pull up the block and cause a gasket leak. Now the threads are 1 1/2 inch long in the block. So figuring the depth, thickness of chain and the washer tells me 3 inches is about right. Or do this. buy a length of 1/2x13 all thread and cut your own studs to lift the engine but make sure you have the nuts and washers too. I personally would go with all thread myself. That way you decide what length works for you. I hope your putting this engine on a stand to work on the bottom end and do not use a oil pan gasket. a quality RTV is all the factory used and it worked fine. Way too many members have come here telling about a leaky oil pan after a rseal or rebuild because they used the supplied pan gasket found in many gasket kits. A cork or rubber oil pan gasket should not be used because of the leaks later on. then you need to pull the engine to fix it.. not a fun thing really. A few have posted they used the gasket and no problem... Yet.. But it wil become a problem. Its just a matter of time. Have the gasket surfaces cleaned several times with brakeclean. then apply RTV enough to see it squeeze out. tighten down the pan and your done. Where the pan connects to the front gear cover and the rear main seal cover is a 3 way area for leaks. Make sure those areas of the 3 gaskets are really clean so the RTV can stick in there. Use more RTV pushed into these areas too.

 

[Brad S.]

When I brought my block to the machine shop they unloaded it with what looked like a ice block lifter, but went through the water jacket holes.

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[icanfixall]

That sure is an ice block tool and not a engine block lifting tool. But if it works I say go for it...

 

[hotshotidi]

Or around exhaust manifolds or bolts in the head studs

 

[Oog]

^ does not read well