I went to start the truck today, and the key doesn't do anything. No lights, no buzzer, no radio. Nothing. My tilt column stopped tilting also, and I think the lever is the culprit. I believe it is a wiring thing or possibley that piece of pot metal and linkage in the column. How does one go about accessing those parts?
Key does nothing
- Thread starter Jbevs
- Start date
Simp5782
SNOW TACKLER!
junk yard or LMC truck. or car-part.com
To get to them, it's near impossible without dropping the column. It's been a while, but you likely will have to pull the wheel as well. Someone who's done this recently will be along to tell you for sure.
Heath
Heath
8seconds
Looking to Modify
First get a copy of Haynes or Clifton Auto repair manual for the year truck that you have......
Sounds like its the pot metal piece has broken. You can purchase one at any Advance, Auto Zone or O'Reilly's; look in the help section or they should be able to order it for you if they don't have it. Common thing to happen, the ignition key will spin back and forth with no start, no accessories and no lights or gauges will work....
You will have to drop the steering column and remove the steering wheel, remove the turn signal assembly and ignition switch. If automatic a couple of more steps are involved. You will also need to purchase a pin puller for the title steering pins; cost maybe $8.00 or $10.00 if I remember right. Once you have the title out of the way, you can have at the broken actuator and replace. You may have to use a file to de-burr the new actuator, use assembly grease or white litium grease on the actuator and it's track. Because what happens is that the actuator gets dry and binds up causing it to break.
Refer to yoour new manual for step by step instructions....
Hope this helps.....
Sounds like its the pot metal piece has broken. You can purchase one at any Advance, Auto Zone or O'Reilly's; look in the help section or they should be able to order it for you if they don't have it. Common thing to happen, the ignition key will spin back and forth with no start, no accessories and no lights or gauges will work....
You will have to drop the steering column and remove the steering wheel, remove the turn signal assembly and ignition switch. If automatic a couple of more steps are involved. You will also need to purchase a pin puller for the title steering pins; cost maybe $8.00 or $10.00 if I remember right. Once you have the title out of the way, you can have at the broken actuator and replace. You may have to use a file to de-burr the new actuator, use assembly grease or white litium grease on the actuator and it's track. Because what happens is that the actuator gets dry and binds up causing it to break.
Refer to yoour new manual for step by step instructions....
Hope this helps.....
. You may have to use a file to de-burr the new actuator, use assembly grease or white litium grease on the actuator and it's track. Because what happens is that the actuator gets dry and binds up causing it to break.
Refer to yoour new manual for step by step instructions....
Hope this helps.....[/QUOTE]
when i woked at the ford store,,i never used grease or oil..reason being,,they drawed dust and dirt,,and your back to square one...i had some graphite lube in a can,,that dried dry.......that didnt draw dust or dirt..and it made it slide like crazy....can get it at nearly any tractor supply store......
Refer to yoour new manual for step by step instructions....
Hope this helps.....[/QUOTE]
when i woked at the ford store,,i never used grease or oil..reason being,,they drawed dust and dirt,,and your back to square one...i had some graphite lube in a can,,that dried dry.......that didnt draw dust or dirt..and it made it slide like crazy....can get it at nearly any tractor supply store......
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
Pushbutton start will take a lot of load off the pot metal next time
Turns out the culprit was batteries had no juice. Zero. Anyhow, once I get the lines primed with fuel again I hope she'll go. I cranked it good at least 3 times for about 20 seconds with no fire. I think cracking the lines at the injectors to make sure fuel gets to the injectors will do the trick. I still can't believe that's what the problem was.
