Kent Moore J33300 timing kit questions

[HS108]

Im getting back in the game, Ive had the truck for awhile just driving it here and there, and I need to start investing some time and TLC into it. I have tons of parts stock piled up, New RD-80 pump, BB injectors, guages, etc not doing any good on my shelf


Question is, I had a lead on a magnetic probe, but it fell through, so what else can I do/use to time my engine. (getting excessive black smoke) timing was set to 9.5 back about 4-5 years ago

Here is a picture of what I have

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[Clb]

There is a way to use an inductive light on the d ring (in the trough on the meter..
The directions for Mine is in the container and not accessible right now.
Someone will chime in soon..

 

[IDIBRONCO]

That's right. You'll want it set to "clamp on pickup", "timing light", you'll need to use the "increase/decrease" to move the timing mark. I'm not sure about the "offset adjustment". I believe that you'll want to to be "0".

 

[HS108]

Or im on the fence about buying this one, as ive seen alot of other people buying them and using it. I could sell my kent moore or try and hopefully find a used probe, vs a 400$ new one

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DTI-Tech-T...3&toolid=10001&customid=kow83vj1fp000b5200004

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Your link shows up as $229 not $400. Several have made offers that are lower than the listed prices and have been accepted.

 

[Big Bart]

HS 108,

You will hook up a piezo clip to the #1 injector line. (Passenger side closest to radiator.). Be sure to put as close to the injector as possible, not on a bend, and sand the paint off where you plan to use it. Plug it into your meter.

You need a timing light that has the advance feature. Some have had issues with some lights not working well with the inductive bar on your Kent Moore meter. So you may have to try more than one timing light.

Hook the inductive pick up on your timing light onto the u shaped metal bar on the meter. Move the top switch to “clamp on pick up”. Move the second switch to “timing light”. The other two are not used for this application.

Put the power plugs for the meter and timing light on your battery to power both up.

Set your timing light advanced to 8.5 or 9.5. (Which ever you prefer.) The reason for using the timing advance is there is no timing mark on your truck other than TDC or 0 degrees. So you use the timing advance to set the timing so at TDC to know your timing is correct. Even though you see the timing lining up up at TDC, but it is actually 8.5 or 9.5 BTDC due to the advance feature.

Make sure all your cables are clear of moving parts. Start the truck and if your set up is working the piezo clip will let the meter show you your RPM and your timing light should be flashing. (Note above some lights don’t work well with a pickup bar.). Now run the truck up to 2000 rpm and see if your timing is at TDC. If not you can increase or decrease your timing advance till it lines up to see how far off the timing is. So for instance if at 4 degrees advanced you see the marks at TDC then your timing is currently off 4.5 degrees. (4 - 8.5 = -4.5) If you advance to say 12 degrees to see the marks showing TDC then your 3.5 degrees off in the opposite direction. (12 - 8.5 = +3.5)

Turn the vehicle off to loosen the IP and move a dimes width. Tighten, run, and test. Be sure to reset your timing advance to 8.5 factory or 9.5 a popular setting with this community. Continue to do this till you get the timing right. Search other threads on adjusting the IP for tools you can make to do it easier. You may need to loosen the injector lines on the pump if you are more than a couple degrees off. Be warned to not run the truck with the IP loose not tight and try to adjust running. Many have ruined a IP doing this.

All the best!

 

[Big Bart]

Sorry I forgot to mention, you only use the 20 degree offset on cylinder one if you use the pickup on the harmonic balancer for timing. (VS a timing light.). The reason is the hole for the pick up is offset 20 degrees from TDC. So you have to calculate for that issue.

 

[HS108]

Your link shows up as $229 not $400. Several have made offers that are lower than the listed prices and have been accepted.

Yes, but a new probe from Kent Moore is 400.


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[HS108]

Sorry I forgot to mention, you only use the 20 degree offset on cylinder one if you use the pickup on the harmonic balancer for timing. (VS a timing light.). The reason is the hole for the pick up is offset 20 degrees from TDC. So you have to calculate for that issue.

Something like this for an advance timing light?

Actron CP7528 Advance Timing Light, Gray https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000BSWEHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_85MYEJ73RXKEWGV8YXKX

There is one of these for sale locally, I can pick up cheap just to try it.


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[Big Bart]

HS108,

Sorry to confuse the issue. I was not suggesting you buy a new probe from Kent Moore, just addressing the 20 degree offset when using the probe. So you would know not to do so with the timing light. (Sorry if you already knew.) I too use the light as my probe did not seem to work when I bought my Kent Moore.

Also I write these responses with the greater member community in mind. (My responses are generally long and detailed.) I write so someone down the road can find your thread and read my response and have a pretty good understanding of what to do. VS everyone doing the same threads over and over.

Thus I wrote the second comment for you and the greater member community in mind. (I never saw a thread that explains why there is a 20 degree offset needed with a probe. It was rather obvious to me when I saw the hole it was placed in.) I never saw many good threads on using any of the meters. It's not rocket science but it can be intimidating when you get something so simple with so many buttons and that has multiple ways it can help you get your timing done.

That light you mention above will likely work, but I am not as confident about the accuracy of cheaper lights with a rheostat style adjustment. So you could still end up 1-2 degree's off, not the end of the world but if you can why not get as close as possible.

Many buy the Innova or Bosch digital advance lights. (Has a LED screen and flat buttons VS a reostat dial. $70-100 on Amazon.) See if you local parts store can source and overnight one in or use Amazon prime perhaps.

As mentioned some lights will pick up off the metal u bar some will not. So try to make sure what ever you buy, you can open and return if it does not work with your meter.

Food for thought I was able to buy a nice used Snap On digital timing light for $100 used on either Craigslist or Offerup. Now if it had not worked, I would have to keep it or resell it. But most professional lights should work on the Kent Moore box. Its a very nice light that will last for years.

Let us know how it turns out! Maybe include some pics for future users to see the hook up.

 

[raydav]

I spent about half a day with both the mag pickup and a serious timing light. After all that effort, I got to the same place by just being on the edge of no crackle after warm up.

 

[HS108]

I was able to get my hands on a inductive timing light, for a good price... free

So I will test it out, report back with pictures.

It’s not gonna be tomorrow or the next day, but it will be one day lol


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[Big Bart]

Free is good! Let us know how things turn out.

Some thoughts -

If your piezo clip is working the Kent Moore will show RPM when the truck is running. If not adjust it till it does. (Sand the paint off under it.) Also a good time to set your RPM to 650 with the cold advance off. My tach in the truck reads fast, truck said 650rpm, meter and timing light said 550rpm. Based on a slightly rough idle at 550rpm, and better at 650rpm, I believe the meter.

You may find the timing light is not flashing as consistant as on a gasser. At least this is what I found. Not sure if that is the piezo missing a few injection pulses or if the timing light does not always sense the U bar signal. However it will work for setting the timing. (Misses some flashes but does not show timing moving around.) If your timing gun is not working try moving it on the bar and try flipping the induction clip the other way. Some say they had issues with specific lights not working.

All the best!

 

[HS108]

Well, update 2...

I saw a full Kent Moore meter pop up on eBay, I couldn’t resist. Offered 150 and he took it.

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So now I have 2, I will make one complete set, and resell the other. Or add it to my parts pile lol


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[Big Bart]

If it was me I would keep them both. One for use, the other for parts. As you know the cables on these are pretty light weight and easily broken. They are also getting harder and harder to find over time.