I need help withe fuel lines

slvrwrx

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I just finished my swap. Went from an 88 7.3 to a 87 6.9. I'm trying to start it for the first time. Ive got an electric fuel pump bypassing the lift pump. Ive got fuel in my fuel filter. Ive removed the injector lines and I don't get fuel spraying when I crank. Can anyone give me some help when it comes to bleeding the lines? Also ive been reading about the fuel shutoff solenoid? Any help or a bleed procedure would be greatly appreciated :)
 

slvrwrx

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An audible click is the only tell tale sign of it working? And I'm sorry.. but fsv is fuel shutoff valve?
 

hesutton

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Did you use the electric fuel pump the bleed the fuel system prior to cranking it over? No air at the fuel filter anymore? Once you get fuel to the IP, it will take a bit of cranking to bleed the injector lines. Like stated, you must have power to the FSS on the IP.

Once you have fuel at the injector lines, tighten them down and it'll start.

Heath
 

slvrwrx

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I have the fuel lines at injectors all the way disconnected. Should I connect them but not tighten them down? I have no idea how much fuel is supposed to come out. I assume a lot? So maybe just leave them loose? I'm going to try again in about an hour to fire it up. How much cranking should I expect to do if the fuel filter is full before I cycle my glow plugs. My batteries took a dump in the middle of cranking last night..
 

hesutton

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No need to glow plug the beast until you have fuel at the injectors. It's not a ton fuel. Once you see fuel coming from the injector lines, tighten them down. They don't have to completely disconnected, just loose.

Heath
 

slvrwrx

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Okay thanks. This is what I'm going to try. First turn the key to activate electric fuel pump. Then hold shrader valve open to ensure no air up to the fuel filter. Then leave lines cracked, not off, and crank until I see wetness around the injector. Then tighten em up and it should start?
 

gandalf

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I just finished my swap. Went from an 88 7.3 to a 87 6.9. I'm trying to start it for the first time. Ive got an electric fuel pump bypassing the lift pump. Ive got fuel in my fuel filter. Ive removed the injector lines and I don't get fuel spraying when I crank. Can anyone give me some help when it comes to bleeding the lines? Also ive been reading about the fuel shutoff solenoid? Any help or a bleed procedure would be greatly appreciated :)

What is the status of the IP on the 6.9 currently in the truck? Is it new, rebuilt? Or was it on the engine when you put it in the truck and you assume it's good? If the FSS does not make an audible click when you apply power, then it's not doing well. You can test it with just a length of wire from the battery positive to the FSS, without cranking the engine.

Personal preference, I'd have the fuel hard lines mounted on the injectors, but loose. I'm not sure it really makes a difference.

Be very careful cranking the engine. It takes a lot of power to turn one of these engines over due to the high compression. That starter motor is working hard. Crank for 15-20 seconds only. Then let it rest, cool off. If you overheat the starter motor you'll burn it out and have to replace it. Crank for 15-20 seconds, let it rest a couple minutes.

Even assuming the IP is working well, you'll have to crank for a while. These engines don't really push that much fuel at idle.
 

slvrwrx

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Yeah. Unfortunately I bought a running 6.9 that was at one time rebuilt by ford. The ip hasnt even been altered at all as the red marking wax on the cover bolts that ford marked is still intact. I am assuming It works because it worked when pulled out of the other vehicle. Ive spent a lot of money so far on this project and basically.. yea I'm hoping the pump is good.
 

slvrwrx

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Also holding wot while cranking.. this makes it faster right as the pump is tryin to spit max flow?
 

slvrwrx

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Thank you for the responses. I'm going to try it out again and hopefully I get to hear my old truck once again. Ill post with results. :) much appreciated.
 
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