I have my heart set on a mechanical clutch linkages how to hook it up?

Diesel JD

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Hey everyone...I'm well aware of the advantages of the hydraulic system..but I like the mechanical system. So how does the hydraulic system hook up and how does the mechanical system on the earlier trucks? I assume they both function in a manner to mechanically release the throwout bearing, using hydraulic pressure in the case of the hydraulic and mechanical pressure from your foot in the case of the mech. system. So anyway, I'd appreciate any help.
JD
 

FordGuy100

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Hydrolic system:

The clutch pedal is attached to a plunger type device that goes into the clutch master cylinder. Basically a brake master cylinder, except for the clutch. When you press in the clutch the clutch master cylinder forces brake fluid (that what it uses for the "hydrolic" fluid), and it goes down to the clutch slave cylinder. It then forces the clutch slave cylinder to press on the throwout bearing arm? and this in turn releases the clutch. I like it, works good for me. The only bad part is bleeding it, but when you know what your doing it goes by pretty quick.
 

Diesel JD

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Its different, plus I don't like stuff such as master and slave cylinders which can leak and such. I know all the cons of the linkage, I still think its a good system, I just am starting from a blank since this is an auto to manual swap. Yes I already have a huge left leg(both actually) its not that much effort, I learned to drive on a mechanical clutch in a pickup..a good bit smaller than an F250. I know the pros and cons, I just want to learn how both work and how to set them up. Thanks
 

CSARebel916

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When I put the 6.9 in my 79 F-150 I made my old mech clutch set up work. I had to gring and notch the bellhousing, so the linkage would work. I also had the BH reinforced around the clutch fork for extra precautions. I will try to get you some pics of my BH later when I go to the garage. It worked out very nicely!

I will have to say I much rather have a mechanical clutch then a hydro clutch any day!
 

fx4wannabe

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I'm sure its much cheaper to maintain. My 93 got 300,000 out of the factory master cylinder so I just stick with that. They are a pain to bleed though, thats for sure.
 

Diesel JD

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Thanks, yes some pictures would be awesome. I really was hoping to hear from one of you guys that dropped a diesel in a 70s F-Series. So how much did you have to grind the bellhousing and what did you do to reinforce it? Thanks,JD
 

CSARebel916

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I justs used the skinny little cutting disks for my 4 1/2 inch grinder. Trimmed it away little by little and then I took it to my local wleding shop and had him weld 1/2 plate alum around the fork opening.
 

sle2115

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Wish you had told me you wanted to do that, I scrapped about four complete mechanical setups! The ones used most often use a pivot tube with two ears on them. One ear has a rod that goes through the firewall and connects to the clutch pedal, and the other ear has a rod that goes to the clutch fork. (you might have already known that).

I am not sure what the pressure plate figures are on these trucks. I would assume it to be quite a bit. It could be pretty tough to hold for extended periods of time. I had a 4500 PP in my Chevelle, it was also a dual disk setup, and it was a pain in the butt to hold while staging. My love of the manual tranny pretty quickly left me after a couple of red lights...but that was probably double what our clutches have. I need to change my clutch, just need time to do it! :)
 

Diesel JD

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Scott I have bought a complete setup from another member from an 81 F150. The only worry I have is getting it to release the throwout bearing since it sounds like the diesel bellhousing was designed with the hydraulic clutch system in mind and the mechanism seems different between the two.
 

GTFD

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Isn't the hydraulic slave housed inside the bell housing?! Impossible to service without going thru the motions of a clutch job, ugh! I'd take manual linkage or exposed hydaulic parts any day.
 

subway

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Isn't the hydraulic slave housed inside the bell housing?! Impossible to service without going thru the motions of a clutch job, ugh! I'd take manual linkage or exposed hydaulic parts any day.

nope all external:D the only problem i can see is the z-bar uses a pivot on the engine and frame. the frame holes should be there or not to hard to make, i am just not sure if the IDI has the engine pivot ready to go.....

after that it should be a bolt in
 

Diesel JD

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What is this engine pivot and why do I need it? Doesn't the mechanical linkage just manually push the clutch fork and then the throwout bearing releases the clutch?
 
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