I am guessing....

NTOLERANCE

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That this means I need a return line kit.

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I am assuming this is some sort of vacuum line or breather line thats been disconnected.

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I am also assuming that the thermostat is under the alternator.
 

OLDBULL8

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Can't make heads or tails of what your saying about the pics. The thermostat is under the steel neck on the engine that the upper rad hose is attached to
 

Shadetreemechanic

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That this means I need a return line kit.

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I am assuming this is some sort of vacuum line or breather line thats been disconnected.

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I am also assuming that the thermostat is under the alternator.

Yes to the first pic, and the second looks like the hard line drain off of the fuel filter water drain. Nothing happening with vac over there.
To the third question. I don't know what year you have, but on the serpentine belt setup the alternator must be removed to get to the thermostat, but I can't remember on the v belt setup.... alt probably must go as well.
 

dyoung14

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Plan on removing the alternator, vac pump, and everything to do with the fuel filter, not a bad job, i can do it 30 minutes or so if i dont run into any trouble just take your time remeber were all the bolts go, if you pressure wash make DAMN sure nothing gets into the intake!
 

88beast

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ya david got it
take belts off
then alt
then vac pump
then bracket (it holds alt and vac pump also has its own bolts)
then the water inlet neck
the bolts are 2 different lengths but they match the housing so no worry
the main thing is pay attention to bracket orientation
all this needs to come off to properly clean the mating surface
the tstat from a parts store will have a rubber gasket thats not needed the tstat recesses into the block
then use gasket paper or rtv to seal it
some say the parts store tstats dont work but ive had no trouble yet again i change coolant and tstat once a year for the heck of it
and oldbull idk about the 6.9 but my 7.3 is aluminum water neck not steel
 

dyoung14

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ya david got it
take belts off
then alt
then vac pump
then bracket (it holds alt and vac pump also has its own bolts)
then the water inlet neck
the bolts are 2 different lengths but they match the housing so no worry
the main thing is pay attention to bracket orientation
all this needs to come off to properly clean the mating surface
the tstat from a parts store will have a rubber gasket thats not needed the tstat recesses into the block
then use gasket paper or rtv to seal it
some say the parts store tstats dont work but ive had no trouble yet again i change coolant and tstat once a year for the heck of it
and oldbull idk about the 6.9 but my 7.3 is aluminum water neck not steel

Your water neck should be cast iron. not aluminum, :confused: but im like you i have used aftermarket thermostats with great sucsess, i even used the o-ring on the last job i done, so far so good, i have a napa 205 degree in my psd and i love it, nice hot heat!
 

88beast

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ya i used the oring once worked great still but when i took it out that oring was smashed so bad it was unbelieveable wasnt even on the tstat im sure i had some coolant moving around it
 

oldmisterbill

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A shop in Maine put an aftermarket thermostat in a reman I got .It over heated in the first 6 or 7 miles. He picked oit up drove it back to his shop -put another aftermarket stat in it-told me "drive it the temp sensor mustbe bad". He rebuilt 2 engines for the price of 1,plus he had to buy a core.
 

Dieselcrawler

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if u pressure wash the engine, make sure it is cold. do not spray a hot engine. the injection pump can warp due to the cold water hitting the hot pump, cause hard/no start issues and low power is it does start.
 

dyoung14

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A shop in Maine put an aftermarket thermostat in a reman I got .It over heated in the first 6 or 7 miles. He picked oit up drove it back to his shop -put another aftermarket stat in it-told me "drive it the temp sensor mustbe bad". He rebuilt 2 engines for the price of 1,plus he had to buy a core.

Thats odd how some people have bad luck with them and some dont:confused:

My grey truck has an aftermarket 175 degree, it fine in the summer time cause when i hot rodded it it stayed nice and cold, but in the winter timr it wont get over 145 degrees:puke:
 

hesutton

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Thats odd how some people have bad luck with them and some dont:confused:

My grey truck has an aftermarket 175 degree, it fine in the summer time cause when i hot rodded it it stayed nice and cold, but in the winter timr it wont get over 145 degrees:puke:

David, it sounds like it is stuck open. Well, that is better than stuck closed.;Sweet

Heath
 

redneckaggie

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mine has an aftermarket 180 degree as of right now, im fixing to walk out and change it cause I can't get it over 150 unless I beat the hell out of it or go on a long trip, even then it wont go much over 150. going back with a factory t-stat

To the op the first pic means you need a new return line kit, the second is just a drain so unless you are worried about it dripping water it is harming nothing
 
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