Help with E4OD ECC and code questions

JeffKPDX

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Hello All,

I've been combing this forum for years and I can't say how much it's helped to diagnose and fix issues on my truck. So first off, thanks to everyone here sharing knowledge on these old beasts. This is my first post because I have run into an issue that I'm not seeing a clear answer on and wanted to see what you all think.

My truck is a 92 idi w/ E4OD. I've recently completed a SAS from a same year F350 and swapped gears to 4.10. After that I did an 2.5" SKY RSK up front with a 99-04 Superduty leaf swap and a 4" rear 08-16 super duty leaf swap and deleted the factory blocks. After that I put in a redhead steering box and a Borgeson steering shaft.

Before all this work I would get the occasional ABS light go off but it didn't affect driving or brakes so I let it go. After the SAS and gear swap I noticed my speedo was super jumpy. I figured it was the VSS so I replaced that it seemed to remedy the problem. I had been driving it minimally after the SAS since it took me awhile to complete the spring swaps and shackle work. So I finally wrap it all up and take her down the road for the first long haul. At this point I have driven it around town and gotten it up to highway speeds but nothing more than 50 miles or so. I make it about 240 miles as as I'm coming off the highway and downshifting the O/D light starts flashing and it goes into limp mode and hard shifting.

I stop and pull codes and it sends back 10,23, 26, 29, 62, & 67. I was lucky enough to find a shop to limp it to and they helped me with diagnosis from there. What we came up with is that a lot of these codes were referencing either a sensor or saying it could be ECC failure so it was more likely that it was the ECC than a bunch of sensors all failing at once. Especially since I had already replaced the VSS. Also just for ***** I swapped out the VSS again just to see if it was a faulty and that didn't solve it.

Now I've removed the ECC and before I order a reman one from GOECM I figured I throw it out here to see if any of you had thoughts on the approach. Or if anyone has used a ECC from GOECM or recs for any other place to source one from besides the wreck yards.

Thanks in advance for the help. It's killing me to see it sitting still after all this work went into it. Next up is an ATS turbo from my donor rig but those questions will be for another thread.
 

david85

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Hello All,

I've been combing this forum for years and I can't say how much it's helped to diagnose and fix issues on my truck. So first off, thanks to everyone here sharing knowledge on these old beasts. This is my first post because I have run into an issue that I'm not seeing a clear answer on and wanted to see what you all think.

My truck is a 92 idi w/ E4OD. I've recently completed a SAS from a same year F350 and swapped gears to 4.10. After that I did an 2.5" SKY RSK up front with a 99-04 Superduty leaf swap and a 4" rear 08-16 super duty leaf swap and deleted the factory blocks. After that I put in a redhead steering box and a Borgeson steering shaft.

Before all this work I would get the occasional ABS light go off but it didn't affect driving or brakes so I let it go. After the SAS and gear swap I noticed my speedo was super jumpy. I figured it was the VSS so I replaced that it seemed to remedy the problem. I had been driving it minimally after the SAS since it took me awhile to complete the spring swaps and shackle work. So I finally wrap it all up and take her down the road for the first long haul. At this point I have driven it around town and gotten it up to highway speeds but nothing more than 50 miles or so. I make it about 240 miles as as I'm coming off the highway and downshifting the O/D light starts flashing and it goes into limp mode and hard shifting.

I stop and pull codes and it sends back 10,23, 26, 29, 62, & 67. I was lucky enough to find a shop to limp it to and they helped me with diagnosis from there. What we came up with is that a lot of these codes were referencing either a sensor or saying it could be ECC failure so it was more likely that it was the ECC than a bunch of sensors all failing at once. Especially since I had already replaced the VSS. Also just for ***** I swapped out the VSS again just to see if it was a faulty and that didn't solve it.

Now I've removed the ECC and before I order a reman one from GOECM I figured I throw it out here to see if any of you had thoughts on the approach. Or if anyone has used a ECC from GOECM or recs for any other place to source one from besides the wreck yards.

Thanks in advance for the help. It's killing me to see it sitting still after all this work went into it. Next up is an ATS turbo from my donor rig but those questions will be for another thread.

Code list: http://www.thorssell.net/hbook/2digit.html

10 = ?? can't find this one...
23 = Throttle sensor out of range or throttle set too high (this this code happens if you don't put the press the peddle down while pulling codes)
26 = TOT (Transmission oil Temperature) out of range
29 = Vehicle speed sensor problem
62 = Converter Clutch Failure
67 = MLPS out of range (tells the computer what position the shift lever is in)

To have this many simultaneous codes come out of the blue tells me something major happened. I don't think the computer let go, because clearly, it's still storing and downloading codes to the reader.

First, check your fuses.

Next check the wiring harness, starting at the transmission controller and and work your way down from there. Chances are something got knocked loose with all the recent work. If the computer can't see signals from the sensors, it will go bonkers and store codes.

Were you still getting all 4 gears? Or was it only two gears? With no power to the transmission, you will only get 4th gear in "D", 2nd gear in "2" or "1" and reverse normally. The torque converter will also not lock up.
 

JeffKPDX

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I felt the same way. It seemed odd that all of those would happen at once which is why I went to the ECC first in my mind. I don't want to cut corners though so I'll be testing my way down the line. It was also suggested to me that I should look at the TECA relay and harness. I read that the wiring harness for the trans controller is known to have issues. Have you replaced yours?

I was getting all gears though I didn't take it up to 4th again after the OD light started flashing. It happened as I was downshifting off a mountain pass coming off the highway. At first I was thinking it was MAP sensor but then the codes told a different story. It had reverse as well. It actually shifted pretty smooth from 1-2 and 2-3 at WOT but as I was driving slow through town to the shop it was hard shifting in traffic.
 

JeffKPDX

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I was looking at those Baumann models and they seem like a great solution if I have to go that route. After reading about the issues some people have when switching ECC from other years or models it started to sound like another problem just waiting to happen. I do have a matching 350 donor that I took the axles from. I can try that out first if need be to see if that resolves the codes. Towed it home and got hit by an ice storm and tons of work so I haven't been able to put time into it yet. Hoping this weekend I can test everything and get her back on the road. Thanks for the help!
 

david85

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I love the aftermarket controller, but it can be a bit of work to get it set up properly. Mine is no longer is production, but from what I see and hear, their newer "US Shift" unit is even better. Mine came with some "off the shelf" programs, but expect to do your own fine-tuning if you go that route.

Yes, the TECA relay is a common problem and easy fix on the OEM setups. Never had to replace my relay because I don't have one on my aftermarket setup.

The more I think about this, you might want to check your connectors at the transmission. I'm assuming you had to remove the transmission for the 4x4 swap, so the MLPS and solenoid body connectors would have to be unplugged to get it out. The solenoid body connector (driver's side, gray) is tricky to get apart and prone to breaking. Oil and water contaminants are also known to cause problems here.
 

JeffKPDX

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Now that aftermarket is sounding even more intriguing. If I can delete a common fail point and set my self up for a better tune once I go turbo that sounds like a win. Can you mount that in the engine compartment or do you need to fish it back into the cab? Getting that out behind the e brake mounting plate was a PITA. I ended up pulling it out the front but I thought it was supposed to slide out in the cab after the e brake mount was removed.

Didn't have to drop trans cuz no 4x4 swap. Just axle and gear. It was already 4x4 but I'll make sure to check the solenoid body connector too.
 

aggiediesel01

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Can you mount that in the engine compartment or do you need to fish it back into the cab?

Near the bottom of the US gear page is a link to the install and setup manual for the unit. I would suggest reading through all of it before jumping in. It does say that it must be installed in the cab, not under the hood or along the frame rail like the banks transcommand.
 
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