HELP! T444E POWERCHOKE 90psi Comp on three cyl.

Captain Morgan

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Went to install glow plugs and and discovered the folowing:
Cylinders 1,3,5,7 @ 325psi
" " 2 @ 320, 4,6,8 @ 90psi.
No compression on three and still runs like a top, just has no power.
The question is should I rebuild, replace with a running take-out or just buy another truck.
A reman engine is around $8000 I have seen prices $1000 each way.
My problem is that the truck was under powered to begin with and I am not extremely familiar with with the durability of the various performance upgrades.
So I would like every one who reads this to give their opinion as to what they would do or what they have done. This truck is what pays the bills so it has got to last if I fix it again. Also If you have taken the time to read this I really appreciate it, THANKS.
 

Ak HDM

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How many miles/hours on it? Has it been using a lot of oil? A lot of blowby?
If not using oil & not a lot of blowby, it could be valves leaking causing low compression. If so you could do a valve job. I would find out where the compression loss is-piston rings or valves & go from there. I would be inclined to overhaul it,as alot of the time reman engines aren't all that great, & running take-outs maybe more problems later.:puke:

Mike
 

Captain Morgan

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Appreciate the good advice, I bought another truck just in case. The dealer in Grand Junction said that they would put in a reman for ONLY $12,760! helluva deal, huh? Going to tear this POWERCHOKE down as soon as I get some more time off. Will try to make it entertaining by posting some pics. Also going to have to strech the frame of the new truck, try to get some pics of that too.
 

Ak HDM

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Pics would be great. Are you going to have to change the wheel base on the other truck? If so I would roll the rear axle back to where it needs, to be & add to the frame at the end, rather than cutting the frame between the rear axle & cab & adding a piece. Back in 2000 I took IMT service bodies off 1984 GMC topkick & put them on 2000 Ford F750 super cab chassis. I did 2 of 'em. Had to change the wheel base on both. Just unbolted rear suspension rolled it to the right spot, redrilled & bolted it in place. If you have to any drive shaft lengthening, Spicer doesn't recommend any longer than 60in. between u-joints, in medium & heavy duty applications. Also check driveline angles. If you get in touch with Spicer, they have a 'puter program to help with drive line angles, Driveline Angle Analyzer. I don't Know if there is a charge for it, but a lot of dealers have it. I got one from the Western Star dealer here.
I don't know what suspension you have, but if it's leaf spring,you may have to add a leaf or 2 on the side that your crane is to carry the added weight on that side.
A good magnetic base drill is the best for drilling the frame:)

If I can give you some ideas or advice, just let me know.
Mike
 

Copper

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How are the cylinders #'d on a Powerstroke? Are you saying you lost one bank, or every other one down each side? I almost wonder if it isn't something in your lifter rack that went haywire, if it's the former..... I've seen engines that did similar things. I had a used 390 once that did something similar - it had been laid on it's side, then they tried to start it after uprighting it - it had a little oil in each cylinder on the one bank, and almost-but-not-quite hydrolocked when they cranked it over. They shut it down when it started blowing oil out the exhaust running on 4 cyl., and I ended up with it for parts. When I ran a compression on it, it had virtually NO compression on one bank - it ended up being busted rockers. I stuck a set of used ones in it, and it's still going 10+ years later, last I heard..... Ultimately, I guess I'd not be ready to give up on it yet, is all I'm saying.
 

tonkadoctor

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How are the cylinders #'d on a Powerstroke? Are you saying you lost one bank, or every other one down each side?

From front to back........1,3,5 & 7 are the right head and 2.4.6 & 8 are the left head.

He's saying he lost the back 3 on the drivers side. Saying what you did got me thinking, (Ya I know....me thinking is a dangerous thing:eek: ), makes me wonder if the head gasket is letting go in the #6 cylinder affecting 4 & 8, a cracked head/block or possibly something related to the valve train like you stated.
 

Captain Morgan

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Well fellas I am going to try to make one more job with the
cornbinder/powerchoke. The Aeromax is going to get lengethened
and Air Ride Suspension. I am down in my back from driving the aeromax with no load from tennessee to colorado. it has a 23k rear axle on springs, you
can see day light between the tires and road at most interstate bridge
crossings at 78mph. I am going to tear down the powerchoke in about three
months, I need to make one more tour of duty for financial reasons. Cross
your fingers for me. I am going to use the Aeromax to haul the truck to the
next job in an effort to make it last a little longer, also pulling travel trailer and dolly with same truck.
 

Captain Morgan

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Going to rebuild the powerchoke!!!!!!!!!!!!! Looking for parts and specs to make it do all it can do. The high hp aeromax sounded like a good idea at the time, now I have a better plan for its future. Anyone who has any ideas speak up, im listening. The Intl is so easy to drive and rides good so I am going to keep it. With its supposed bad motor I have pulled Flaming Gorge with the trailer and if you haven't been there if you come from UT to WY on 191 the First 14mi is 5% to 9% grade with 10 (yes TEN) switchbacks. 45k on the combonation rig. It was SLOW but it made it with out getting hot.
 

tonkadoctor

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Consider a reman longblock or even a complete engine. It often cost just as much to rebuild an engine yourself.

With a longblock you get a warrenty and a lot less downtime which in your case time is money.

Here's a link to some Navistar part numbers that may help.

As far as power mods......you should be able to do just about everything that can be done on the powerstroke, chip, injectors, turbo....

Good luck.
 

spg

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The Mods for a Powerstroke won't work on the International. True the basic motor is built by Int. for Ford But Ford uses there own computer and electronics. Internationals computer programs are not the same. Any performance upgrades you get must be listed to work on the International.
 

Double-S-Diesel

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The Mods for a Powerstroke won't work on the International. True the basic motor is built by Int. for Ford But Ford uses there own computer and electronics. Internationals computer programs are not the same. Any performance upgrades you get must be listed to work on the International.

actually on the early ones when dieselpower bill was around, he did chips for them, same cpu there as a ford, the other 2 boxes were IH only.

the edge ez will plug into an IH and work, does a few funky things.

your basic 18k mod will also work.
and yep the turbos will interchange,
and injectors can be swapped.
 

Captain Morgan

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Here is a question for you, Does the 7.3 use different "arrangements" such as different pistons,rods or turbo? Or does it really rely soley on ecm programming to adjust the hp and torque?
 

Captain Morgan

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Got a 175 HP T444E comming, courtesy of ebay! So theroeticly my injectors and turbo and ecm is all i need to get 210hp like the wore ou one that is in there now?
 

tonkadoctor

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Did you buy a long block or a complete engine. If it's a complete engine post the serial number, engine code (like 12NDX or 12NDY etc) and year and I'll try to help you sort it out.

If it's a complete engine, depending on the serial number breaks across the years you might just have to swap the ECM or just have Navistar reflash the ECM.

If it's a long block just swap your old parts onto it.
 

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