Headlight switch problems

[TLBREWER]

tom-
locate the power drain and do it soon. this is the biggest cause for electrical fires in Fords. the ignition slider switch is #2. If you do need to rewire the dash electrical, PM me. I may have an extra harness.

Thanks. I have to pull the radiator next week for a tank re-seal so I may do it then. I don't believe there is a power drain. Just a lot of years of the circuit being overloaded. This truck saw a LOT of abuse before I got it. Now it only sees about 30 miles a week (to school and back) and maybe 15 minutes of headlights on a week.

Tom

 

[towcat]

Thanks. I have to pull the radiator next week for a tank re-seal so I may do it then. I don't believe there is a power drain. Just a lot of years of the circuit being overloaded. This truck saw a LOT of abuse before I got it. Now it only sees about 30 miles a week (to school and back) and maybe 15 minutes of headlights on a week.


Tom

tom-
check the wires carefully. i they have been overheated once, the resistance will cause it to easily overheat again. I'd hate to see all the work you've done to the truck go up in smoke. one more thing, headlights on or not, the switch and plug always has juice going to it.

 

[firemedicmonkey]

I know this is a long time in coming but I FOUND the problem and man am I an idiot... it was the fuse for the marker lights. Replaced fuse and it works like... well as the crappy stock FORD wiring does... I got it fixed and the tranny got stolen back so the truck has been down since... last Oct...

I am doing the headlight mod and the running light mod but I have a few questions... where can I get 9007 headlight plugs I can build myself using 12 gauge wire? I want to eliminated splices and butt connectors as much as possible. So I would like to have the kind where I solder the contacts and push them in the plugs then seal with silicone and shrink wrap...

Whats the best source for relays I was thinking about using a relay block so I can just plug an play the relays... any ideas on a source for a relay block?

Is it cheaper / better to buy the premade kit? Who makes the best / beefiest one?

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Adrian's suggestion from February 22, 2007 :

Fuses good?

It took a while to sink in.

man am I an idiot... it was the fuse for the marker lights. Replaced fuse and it works

I have never been able to find the good headlight plugs that are not already pre-wired.

I seem to remember using a jeweler's screwdriver to carefully un-lock the terminals and slip them out; then, I carefully un-crimped the pig-tail wires and crimped/soldered in my long wires.


NAPA has the heaviest headlight plugs that I have been able to find; they are in an ECHLIN box and have 12AWG leads.

 

[firemedicmonkey]

I did take his advice way back in Feb 07 I just got around to posting b/c I had to pull the tranny and the truck has been down since last October... I am putting back together now and trying to fix all the little and big things as I go... thanks for the help

 

[94iditurbo]

i would definatly check wiring to connector..... but in all the $32 dollar switch i bought
at the dealership is worth it... considering what is said above

 

[94iditurbo]

the dealership also sells the "plugs" or called pigtails and there not that expensive

 

[02AutoWag]

I know this is a long time in coming but I FOUND the problem and man am I an idiot... it was the fuse for the marker lights. Replaced fuse and it works like... well as the crappy stock FORD wiring does...

My headlights work, but no rear running lights or dash lights. A new Ford switch was put in and still the same.

Can someone point me to this fuse?

Thanks.

 

[subway]

might want to take a peak at the turn signal switch, all the rear brake/turn lights run through it.

 

[Agnem]

My headlights work, but no rear running lights or dash lights. A new Ford switch was put in and still the same.

Can someone point me to this fuse?

Thanks.

Often times the running light wire will melt in the connector. This results in the new switch not doing anything different. I had to put a new pigtail in Lady Moose for this very reason. Pull the switch and inspect the connector. It should be a brown wire (might be really brown ).

 

[Papabear]

I know this is a long time in coming but I FOUND the problem and man am I an idiot... it was the fuse for the marker lights. Replaced fuse and it works like... well as the crappy stock FORD wiring does... I got it fixed and the tranny got stolen back so the truck has been down since... last Oct...

I am doing the headlight mod and the running light mod but I have a few questions... where can I get 9007 headlight plugs I can build myself using 12 gauge wire? I want to eliminated splices and butt connectors as much as possible. So I would like to have the kind where I solder the contacts and push them in the plugs then seal with silicone and shrink wrap...

Whats the best source for relays I was thinking about using a relay block so I can just plug an play the relays... any ideas on a source for a relay block?

Is it cheaper / better to buy the premade kit? Who makes the best / beefiest one?

As far as connections go I like to go with the crimped connectors that have heat shrink on them I have never had one fail yet in any location they are a little pricey though $1 each at Napa up here in Canada but well worth the piece of mind.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

My headlights work, but no rear running lights or dash lights. A new Ford switch was put in and still the same.

Can someone point me to this fuse?

Thanks.

There is a much too skinny TAN wire from fuse-block to head-light switch that will overheat and melt itself out of the insulation, causing all sorts of weird lighting issues.

I had one melt and fuse itself into another wire, such that I could not turn off the parking lights.

 

[Agnem]

Could be Tan and not brown. I've never looked BEFORE it cooked.