h1c or hx35 turbo swap

Greg5OH

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h1c much too small., i had a med size frame hx35, also too small. You want something that flows 55ish lb/min
 

FordGuy100

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^^^Those spin backwards^^^

I'm not joking. They are reverse spin turbo's. They wont work on a kit designed to spin a regular rotation turbo. And then if you do make a kit, it will limit you to what turbo's you can use besides one off a 7.3

HX40 would work nice.
 

jaluhn83

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HX35 should be fine unless you're trying to make stupid boost. Setup I have works well for me, and will happily hit 20 psi which dovetails well with the fueling of the bull moose pump I have.

Rated flow on the HX35 is 52-54 lb for the 8 blade (earlier) and 58-60 for the 7 blade (later version). There is an HY35 that likely flows somewhat less which was used on some Cummins motors - automatics in 98/99 IIRC. This is the same turbine but a smaller compressor.

Setup I have is a 12cc housing, stock for a 98 dodge manual truck IIRC. WG is set to about 19 psi. No issues with EGTs, max I'll see under sustained load is ~1050-1100 preturbo.

Big problem I think you'll have with the HX35 is physical size - it's a fair bit bigger than the stock size turbo in size and I expect that you would have some difficulty with interferences trying to fit one on the regular turbo mount/piping. The actual flange is the same as a normal T3, so it would bolt up if it cleared, just an issue of clearance. Down pipe would need some fab work, but that's a given.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-read-the-hx35-hx40-compressor-map-s.362599/

I also have a "HX35 Info Thread" buried on here somewhere that has more info.
 

jaluhn83

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I would go wastegate myself, you get more low end and can adjust/regulate max boost. Some say that non wg flows better, hence is better for towing and has lower egts, but I personally do not agree and wind the wg to work fine for me.

Also be aware that the general consensus is that ~10psi is the max for an unmodified idi if you want any reasonable engine life. For higher boost reducing the CR by decking the pistons in advised, and also making sure the rest of the engine is in good shape. In my case I took 0.015" off the pistons and had them ceramic coated as well as having a fresh rebuild.

My point is that it is wise to consider what the overall goal is and approach it as a integrated plan - too many folks want to just throw a bigger turbo on and think it will work when it's not actually as easy as that.
 

FordGuy100

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My factory turbo ive seen 12 many times. Its a garrett ar.82.

That unfortunately doesn't tell us much, but we already know what the stock turbo's are (I do forget off the top of my head). AR is just a ratio.

I wouldn't go smaller than a 12cm housing. I believe the HY35's are 9cm. The nice thing about those Holsets are that there are a ton of cheap aftermarket parts you can put on them. If your towing a lot, a 16cm housing would probably work well.
 

Greg5OH

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IMO you will be choked at WOT peak power with a non WG holset. my 14cm ex housing hx35 was like that. I messed around with the WG unhooked, I got a few moe pounds out of it but it NEEDS to dump when you are trying to pull some weight or you are just overspinning it, causing very high drive pressure and heating up your intake charge. that definitly needed to be WGd. You could always add an external WG.
But, the dodge take off hx35s are pretty cheap.

shameless plug, but i do have my WG hx35 14cm ex housing rebuilt, then balanced by midwest turbo for $300 shipped :D
 

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