So, ever since summer I've been chasing an issue with my glow plug relay wiring. I put in new glow plugs this year, and one out of every thirty or so times this year when I press my manual push button switch I'd get my wait to start light but no actual click of the relay engaging and obviously no glow. I double checked that what I did when I wired my manual push button using the ground push button guide on here was good, but I soldered everything together and it was all good.
Then I moved on to checking the yellow feed wires for power to the large post as I've read about those being a disaster several a times on various threads on here but they all looked good. Pretty hard to replicate issues like this too when things work 90 some percent of the time. I just gave up and ignored it, but the other night at work it chose to act up and usually if you just jammed the push button on and off over and over again eventually I'd see my voltage gauge dip down and hear the relay click and you'd be good to go. Sometimes turning the key on and off a couple of times and cranking the engine would wiggle loose whatever the issue was and it would engage the gpr the next time I pushed the button. This time at work, and I now work in the snow belt from lake erie and we had just got 4 inches of snow it did not. I had my handy fender relay screwdriver with me and just jumped the gpr with it for ten seconds and then jumped the starter relay and she popped off and I rumbled on home. (I took my can of crack out of the glove box after seeing how easy it started after new glow plugs so this was my only choice)
So, I'm off today and it's fix it day. I have been trying to replicate what happens when the relay won't click but my wts light comes on when I push my manual button and after taking every other wire off one by one and thinking about what they each do, this one I'm holding in my hand is the culprit.
If I remember right, that is the switched 12v from my ignition area that before I did the manual push button mod would have been like the "signal" wire for a traditional relay. Which would make sense, because I have to have power to the large post or when I jump the relay with a screwdriver it wouldn't have worked the other night when I had to do that during it acting up. And also because my wait to start light still has power when I press my manual push button, and the other large post to the glow plugs doesn't matter because if the relay doesn't click it wouldn't have power to feed the plugs anyway. (Ignore the wire I have added to this post, it's for a test light I was using to confirm things to myself)..
So, I guess where I'm at is for one I already have a push button ignition and I think the po had the ignition break on him and since everything else works there I'm just not messing with that. If all I need is 12v to this post to "allow" the relay to engage when I press my push button then I'm thinking of just running another wire to this post from my fuse box that is a switched 12v source itself. Same concept and I don't have to figure out where in the entire maze of wiring this wire is not making good contact and risk screwing up something else.
I really don't see any reason why I shouldn't do this, but just figured I'd post this up here and see if you guys have any thoughts. I'm gonna go do this in the meantime and leave that wire off entirely and see if that works and heck maybe I'll put them both back on that small post for redundancy. I'm just happy I know what the culprit is. I don't think there is any issues with doing this the way I am since I'm running a manual push button for it because it doesn't matter if it has power to that post all of the time since the relay won't work unless I'm pressing the button in the cab..
Then I moved on to checking the yellow feed wires for power to the large post as I've read about those being a disaster several a times on various threads on here but they all looked good. Pretty hard to replicate issues like this too when things work 90 some percent of the time. I just gave up and ignored it, but the other night at work it chose to act up and usually if you just jammed the push button on and off over and over again eventually I'd see my voltage gauge dip down and hear the relay click and you'd be good to go. Sometimes turning the key on and off a couple of times and cranking the engine would wiggle loose whatever the issue was and it would engage the gpr the next time I pushed the button. This time at work, and I now work in the snow belt from lake erie and we had just got 4 inches of snow it did not. I had my handy fender relay screwdriver with me and just jumped the gpr with it for ten seconds and then jumped the starter relay and she popped off and I rumbled on home. (I took my can of crack out of the glove box after seeing how easy it started after new glow plugs so this was my only choice)
So, I'm off today and it's fix it day. I have been trying to replicate what happens when the relay won't click but my wts light comes on when I push my manual button and after taking every other wire off one by one and thinking about what they each do, this one I'm holding in my hand is the culprit.
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If I remember right, that is the switched 12v from my ignition area that before I did the manual push button mod would have been like the "signal" wire for a traditional relay. Which would make sense, because I have to have power to the large post or when I jump the relay with a screwdriver it wouldn't have worked the other night when I had to do that during it acting up. And also because my wait to start light still has power when I press my manual push button, and the other large post to the glow plugs doesn't matter because if the relay doesn't click it wouldn't have power to feed the plugs anyway. (Ignore the wire I have added to this post, it's for a test light I was using to confirm things to myself)..
So, I guess where I'm at is for one I already have a push button ignition and I think the po had the ignition break on him and since everything else works there I'm just not messing with that. If all I need is 12v to this post to "allow" the relay to engage when I press my push button then I'm thinking of just running another wire to this post from my fuse box that is a switched 12v source itself. Same concept and I don't have to figure out where in the entire maze of wiring this wire is not making good contact and risk screwing up something else.
I really don't see any reason why I shouldn't do this, but just figured I'd post this up here and see if you guys have any thoughts. I'm gonna go do this in the meantime and leave that wire off entirely and see if that works and heck maybe I'll put them both back on that small post for redundancy. I'm just happy I know what the culprit is. I don't think there is any issues with doing this the way I am since I'm running a manual push button for it because it doesn't matter if it has power to that post all of the time since the relay won't work unless I'm pressing the button in the cab..
