Fuel Tank Selector

dakotajeep

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I just drove 50-70 miles on my front tank and it is still on full. My rear tank is showing below the where it was when I switched to the front. So I am thinking that even though the guage is showing the front tank it is actually pulling fuel from the rear tank.

My question is is there a sure fire way of telling which tank the fuel is being pulled from? I did just have both tanks off the truck so I wonder what might have caued this to happen...

Thanks
Thad

Its the truck in my sig....
 

RLDSL

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Valve is probably sticking. may be time for replacement. Mine stuck once, the switch flipped tank gauges so was showing full tank and gauge wasnt going down and I ran out of fuel. Had to dump a handful of quarts of tranny fluid into the empty tank to get to a fuel station , and the tranny fluid seemed to clean the valve out because it hasn't stuck since.
 

dakotajeep

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I just ran about a bunch of diesel kleen through that tank. I would think that would loosen/lubricate it??? I am not sure.....

Thad
 

RLDSL

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I just ran about a bunch of diesel kleen through that tank. I would think that would loosen/lubricate it??? I am not sure.....

Thad

I don't know. I've never been that all fired impresed with power services products ability to clean out much more than my wallet :kick:
 

dakotajeep

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It was fine. I just jumped the gun about ten miles too soon. I must have overfilled the front tank on accident.....
 

Pino2234

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RLDSL where would I go to get a new valve. I had mine apart and thought I had it all figured out and worked when it was apart but not when I had it together. But I called Ford and they want $200 for theirs. where else can I go to get one. At that price I would rather buy the extra capacity rear tank and just run on one tank and skip the selector altogether. Thanks
 

hesutton

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They are not carried at autoparts stores. You have to get one from Ford or try and make a generic 6 port valve work.

Heath
 
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towcat

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here's a secret guys.
Pollack is the maker of the valve. They're the only one making that valve for all the three domestic brands. They do have a universal replacement p/n 42-159. You will need the harness and plug adapter 42-203 to graft into where your ford specific plug was at. total cost? no more than $80. warning....there will be some wiring work tho.
 

Agnem

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Those valves usually stick because either the contacts that control the motor leads are faulty (Internal to the switch), or the motor has brush contact problems. No fuel in those areas.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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My question is is there a sure fire way of telling which tank the fuel is being pulled from?



YES; it's called a manual fuel valve.



After having numerous dangerously inconvenient run-out-of-fuel situations in very unhandy places, I gave up on electric tank-switching valves and installed a manual.

It has served me well for over twenty years.

You can buy a double-line manual that switches both DRAW and RETURN lines at the same time; but, I prefer to use two single-line valves and have the ability to switch the RETURN independent of the DRAW.


The fuel-gauge is switched by a plain old DPDT toggle.
 

Pino2234

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Midnight Rider where can I find a manual switch at for my 86' 6.9L. I would rather install a manual switch then an electronic also.
 
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