Fuel tank issues....

4x4TruckinGirl

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so the other day i was cruising down the highway and my fuel guage quits on me. I was drawing off the front tank at the time, and to be safe switched to the rear tank after about 115 miles of driving, knowing that i will get 150 miles to that tank. 30 or so miles later the truck runs out of fuel!!-cuss Much to my dismay the tanks obviously never switched because my rear tank was still full. What could my problem be here??? Sending unit or the diverter valve(??) part on my frame rail? Any help would be awesome!;Sweet
 

The Warden

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Chances are the valve failed, but there IS a fuse dedicated to the valve, in the fuse panel. Can't hurt to see if it blew or not.

I'm pretty sure I replaced a good valve because of a bad fuse...

Just a thought...good luck!
 

4x4TruckinGirl

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All the fuses are good, there was one bad one, honestly not sure what it was for but it got replaced... and nothings changed. Oh and right now the tank is switched on the rear tank but draws fuel from the front! sooo frustrating!
 

subway

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just a thought, but couldn't you double check the voltage readings at the solinoid. i dont know personally what it should be but you could rule out your wiring and isolate it to the solinoid itself. i would also suspect you should be able to hear a click if someone switched it for you while you were under the truck.
 

4x4TruckinGirl

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whats the location of the solenoid?? And when i changed the only fuse that was blown nothing worked again that i noticed. sorry if i'm asking simple questions! when this all first happened we tried switching the tanks, but any way we tried to it wouldnt take fuel off the rear tank but the switch in the truck is on the rear...
 

Todd C

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The fuel valve is on the drivers side frame rail maybe halfway back. Turn the key on, get underneath and have someone switch the tanks. If its working you should hear it. I can hear mine from the cab (as long as the engine's not running...) I'd guess with a test light you could check for voltage and switch tanks and maybe figure out if its electrical or the valve, but a schematic would be real helpful. Chiltons might have the schematic. I believe that also switches the connection to the gauge.
Todd
 

DeepRoots

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it'll be right next to the front tank.

todd c, easton Pa, huh?
I was homeless there for about 6months.... marvelous town.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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My thoughts are that your fuel-selector valve has went hay-wire.

I went through four, before I got smart and went to manual valves.

I have put many hundreds of thousands of miles, and many tankfuls of fuel, on the manual valves with no problems, whatsoever.

I wouldn't let someone put another electric fuel-valve in my truck with $500 to go with it.

It will take two manual valves, one for the fuel draw, and one for the return lines.

Then, a DPDT toggle-switch is used to switch the gauges.

No fuses to blow, no motors to go bad, no connections to corrode, I love my manual fuel-valve.
 

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