Fuel System Questions

[Ferd_Diesel]

I have a 93 7.3 with 7.3. Currently the front tank is in and has ruber hose going from supply to electric mounted on fender. I bought a new rear tank from O - Reillys last Lear but never put it in becuase sending unit is broke. I've been hearing you can use the spectre FG33c for the rear tank a use submergable fuel hose and a brass fitting. I have to do that to front tank anyway.
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[Ferd_Diesel]

I want to pull fuel from both tanks together and make it return into both tanks. I can still check fuel level in each tank with switch. I know I'd have to keep fuel in them so they won't draw air. Any thoughts or ideas on that?

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[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Are both of your tanks the same size? Most likely, it will always pull fuel from the front tank as that is the shortest run (path of least resistance)

Personally, I would keep the switching valve or upgrade switching valves... but that's just me.

Also, you can buy a universal sending unit of the same ohm range and use the guts to repair your stock units. (MUCH cheaper then buying the whole unit as you can get a universal sender for ~$25)

 

[Ferd_Diesel]

I was thinking of going to a manual ball valve selector

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[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

I edited my first post about your sending unit.

Ball valves will work just fine. I wouldnt attempt to pull from both tanks without valves though unless you connected both tanks near the bottom to allow them to feed each other and just pull from the front tank. Kinda a PITA.

 

[Ferd_Diesel]

I don't think i have broken sending unit anymore it was a year ago. I was thinking about putting a valve on each tank on each inlet and return. So i can turn tanks on/off so if I really wanted to pull from both I could. For say on a trip for fewer stops. Wouldn't have to stop switch tanks

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[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Some guys have mounted the valves where the valve is under the floor pan, but the valve handle is in the cab so it can be accessed while driving.

Also, another option may be a 12v solenoid valve. It is another item to go wrong, yes... but would eliminate the need for stopping to change tanks.

 

[Lifted Mudder]

I currently have ball valves mounted where the selector valve used to be and it is great not needing to worry about a bad selector valve when there are issues with the truck. The fuel return lines also used to leak until I switched to the ball valves. The fuel pump is noticeably under less stress all the time too. I put rubber hose on my fuel tank pickups too so they would draw from the bottom of the tanks and I got rid of the tank strainers because my duralift fuel pump has a strainer on it. you can also transfer fuel between tanks which is pretty neat.

 

[OLDBULL8]

I want to pull fuel from both tanks together and make it return into both tanks. I can still check fuel level in each tank with switch. I know I'd have to keep fuel in them so they won't draw air. Any thoughts or ideas on that?

There is no way to positively know if your pulling and returning fuel equally from two tanks. The distance from the front tank is shorter than from the rear tank, there is more flow resistance to the rear tank, so eventually the front tank would overflow. If you started out with both tanks full, it wouldn't take long before the front tank would overflow. What would you do then? And you sure as hell don't want fuel flowing over a hot exhaust.

 

[homelessduck]

I switched to manual valves awhile back. I love them. I can pull from and return to whatever tank I want.